Question about 1997 Ford Escort

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How to check the bleeder valve

Haven't tried anything yet

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  • Stan Ford Nov 30, 2014

    Hi Teresa A Blowers, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box? Please state which bleeder valve. Is it the brake or air con or some other bleeder you want info on.

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  • Ford Master
  • 5,351 Answers

? Nothing to check. Unscrew it and fluid comes out--tighten it to stop.

Posted on Mar 03, 2016

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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2 Answers

What's the best way to bleed the brakes on my 1995 Chrysler Cirrus?


Disconnect battery ground 1st.(dont wanna send computer anything new) Find the bleeder valve on backside of caliper,its lil brass bolt,10mm wrench usually,and has a hole n center. If u can get to these on the ground and tires on,itll save ya that much more time. Check ur brake fluid reservoir,keep it full,check after each tire bleed. DO NOT LEAVE CAP OFF WHILE BLEEDING,Hopefully ya left it on when collapsing cylinder to replace pads. Once ya have all that done ya need some 1 n drivers seat,and some 1 at bleeder valve,have them pump brake pedal,minimum 6 times,and then hold brake pedal dwn,once its held all the way dwn,brake loose the bleeder valve bout 1/2 turn,enuff to let air out and fluid, to where ya start seeing brake fluid,keeping pedal dwn tighten up valve,now repeat from pumping pedal,and hold down,loosen valve,till pedal has stooped going anyfurther dwn,tighten up valve,release pedal. Now ya should only have to do this a few times,depending on a few factors. Check all disk brakes this way,also REMEMBER TO CHECK FLUID AFTER BLEEDING EACH WHEEL,OR IF U HAVE BLED IT alot and have had alot of fluid going through valve,check sooner. YOU DONT WANNA RUN OUT IN RESERVOIR,AS YOULL BE BLEEDING BRAKES FOR HOURS INSTEAD OF 30mins.
Keep reservoir full
Pump pedal and hold
Break loose bldr valve,ask if pedal went down.
Always tighten valve B4 releasing pedal
Repeat,till each brake has straight fluid coming out.
Repeat for all disk brakes on car, ??The brake fluid reservoir,often if bleeding alot through calipers.
Hope helps mostly way i try n descibe what to do.

Jan 21, 2018 | Chrysler Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How can i check the fuel pressure with out havening psi tester


you cannot its that simple ,quick check is to take dust cover off the valve on the fuel rail then push valve down with small screwdriver to see if anything squirts out .

Sep 21, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to bleed hydraulic clutch


Instructions:

1) The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.

2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.

3) Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...

4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.

5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.

6) Close the bleeder valve.

7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.

8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.

9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.

10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.

11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.

12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.

Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.

Alternate Technique: (these provided by Dirk). Here is one way you can try that really worked great for him.

1) Disconnect the hose from the bottom of the fluid reservoir
2) Use a hand pump to manually force the fluid down the line.
3) Reconnect line to reservoir after process and fill fluid as needed.

Note: The reverse bleeding procedure will not work on all rangers. Some rangers' bleeder is nothing but a tapered hex bolt with a hole in it, no real way to get a good seal on it.

Jul 17, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Just put in new clutch in 2001 f150 2wd 4.2 also new slave and master cylinder and pedal safety switch. After bleeding the pedal feels fine but the clutch does not seem to engage as the shifter will not...


what you mean is the clutch is not disengaging the transmission from the engine, so you can shift it.

This is always due to air trapeed in the clutch system. It is very hard to purge the air.

You may have to have a shop use their evac/fill equipment, if they have it.

Try raising the front of the truck as high as you can, including facing uphill. The air is likely trapped at the slave cylinder, not at the clutch.

There is a video on you tube showing a guy purging air from a Ranger. See if you can view it.

1) The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.

2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.

3) Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...

4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.

5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.

6) Close the bleeder valve.

7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.

8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.

9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.

10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.

11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.

12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.

Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.

May 20, 2011 | 1989 Ford F 150

2 Answers

How do u bleed brakes on 1995 mercury sable?cannot get them bled all the way.Would it have anything to do with the proportioning valve?


yes, if you are trying to bleed the back lines the proportioning valve can possibly reduce pressure to the rear. Are you pumping up the pedal to bleed? In this car, the recommended procedure is to start with the pedal up, open the bleeder, push the pedal down, close the bleeder, allow the pedal to retract, wait 5 seconds, repeat. OK?

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Where is the bleeder valve on the rear of 87 Cadillac Deville


If you are referring to the brake bleeder valve, it is located on the wheel cylinders on the backing plate of the brakes for the drum brakes. Follow the brake lines to this bleeder valve. However, it might be rusty and must be soaked in penetrating oil or brake fluid before trying to turn it.

If you are referring to the air ride suspension, look at the rear axle area and look for a lever that controls the 'air bleed' for the air shocks. Follow the small (in diameter) plastic air lines from either of the rear shocks to the bleeder valve.

Jun 15, 2010 | 1987 Cadillac DeVille

2 Answers

Would like 2 know how 2 bleed my coolant system


there should be a bleed nipple at the highest point of the water jacket
somwhere around the head

Apr 09, 2010 | 1995 Honda Accord

2 Answers

I am trying to loosen a caliper bleeder valve.


Try hitting the area around the bleeder with a hammer .. it may help .. bleeders are tough if they don't go after being heated/lubed. You could try loosening the line into the caliper .. that may allow enough of a bleed, banking on the fact that there is still brake fluid in that caliper .. otherwise you may end up replacing that caliper.

Feb 20, 2009 | 1997 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Is it a bad Slave Cylinder or a Master Cylinder on my 95 F-150


did you try to take line off at slave cyl. and see if fluid comes from resavor? also take bleeder out and see if holes are pluged up in bleeder. if all this chks. out ok than its got to be slave cyl. they have been known to go bad. just that quick too.

Jan 26, 2009 | 2001 Ford Ranger Regular Cab

2 Answers

Leak


Thats a Dealer part only (if its the Coolant Bleeder). Last I checked they DO NOT manufacture the Bleeder "Block" (on which the valve originally resides on the stock bleeder). The new OEM product consists of the block (w/o bleeder valve) and your top coolant piping (which now is manufactured with the beleder valve on it - [on the piping itself]) that runs to the upper radiator hose towards the front of the engine and through the "V" of the block. Count on taking a whole day executing this. But can be done with all DIY hand tools. You will need to disconnect any and all sensors/lines in the way of the intake manifold, as it will have to be taken off while you replace the assembly as a result of Chrysler's wonderful new design for thier bleeder valves for the 2nd gen Intrepids. (Stupid Chrysler)

Jun 17, 2008 | 2001 Dodge Intrepid

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