Question about 1987 Ford F 150
I have tryed noths yet
[Be mindful of flammability of cleaning agents that one would use in following suggestions of this post.]
Check the system for codes (such as P2104 & P2112) & check the code history (if available). This could be a loose ground strap, a dirty throttle body (FULLY clean with throttle body cleaner), the bad throttle position sensor, a dirty fuel injector (use injection cleaner), a computer needing to be reset (& then restarting the vehicle), a dirty fuel filter (change the lesser of every 3 years or 30,000 miles), a bad fuel pump, a bad fuel pump relay, a faulty ignition switch...but most likely, it is a dirty throttle body. Use a nitrile gloves & a service manual (for the exact process) & clean it thoroughly with a can of throttle body cleaner. Make sure that you clean the butterfly throttle valve & the sensors-wiggle the butterfly valve as you spray it. You're sure to see how tough that varnish actually is & how strong that cleaner is when it loosens that valve!
When the sensors don't read what they are programmed to anticipate, that situation will shut the vehicle down-requiring the vehicle to be placed in park in order to restart because it triggered the "unsafe operating mode."
Posted on Nov 29, 2014
Testimonial: "Thanks I will change the fuel filter I should do that anyway, can I clean the throttle body while it is on the truck? to re-start it does not have to go into park I can put it in neutral while driving and just turn the key all the way off then it re-starts dont know if not having to put it in park means anything or not. Thanks for the great response"
Not sure if this will help but i had a similar problem on an 85 Lincoln Town car right from the first week i bought it, hitting the dealership for warranty almost weekly because of this problem it took them 2 years to figure out it was a problem caused by built up carbon particles that were getting lodged in the EGR valve which was cone shaped, there by not allowing the valve to close properly and giving a false sensor reading to the engine and causing it to shut down, Once the ignition was turned off it would start again and run normally for anywhere between a few hours to a few days then do it again. To solve the problem they custom built a small screen to go in front of where the intake line to the EGR is and that seemed to solve the problem. I was told it had happened to other Ford and Lincoln vehicles as well with the V8 throttle body injection fuel system.
Posted on Nov 29, 2014
Testimonial: "Hey thanks I will check into this, I purchased this truck new in 1987 and well the problem has just started. It did at one time have a wireing problem, I dont know what my mech. did to fix this, and one time out of the clear blue sky the cadalidic converter became bright red I mean really glowing red, shut the truck off let it cool down and it never did it again. I dont know if it means anything but it seems like if I keep my foot on the gas and brake at the same time always making sure it is reving to high in drive it seem not to do it. Just thought I would mention that stuff. I really thank you for your response at least now I have a starting point. Don't want to spend the money to have my mech. look at it. Thanks"
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Always verify that there are no aftermarket devices causing interference, such as alarms, remote starters or other devices utilizing transponders. Devices that power up the PCM without powering up the PATS Control module can experience no-start concerns. It is probbally a key issue depending on the PATS system in that truck you may have to have more than one key coded into the transponder. Try you spare key.
Posted on Jul 09, 2009
maf senser a tps senser are linked ,by they both sense the load on the engine ,one does it throttle opening and the other by air density u may check the tps and also for excessive air leaks around induction system
Posted on Feb 21, 2010
Most likely you need a new Ignition switch. The small "tickler" wires on your solenoid are staying on. You can disconnect the small wire from the Solenoid and then put a test light on it. Turn the Ignition to Start and see if the wire stays hot when you release the key.
Another problem you could have is the Starter has such a bad intermittent short in it, that it keeps the points welded together after the key is released from the Start position. You can get a starter Draw test done at some parts stores like Autozone or Oreillys to name a few, they do it free and on the truck.
Let me know the result please,
Posted on Oct 28, 2010
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