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I seen somebody take it clothes iron it take it apart and take it and wire it so it would boil water the three wires which one is the ground and how do I hook it up so it will boil water in a five gallon bucket like you did so what is the wiring code tell her I mean could you answer that for me

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If you need to ask what which wire does I would highly recommend you do not attempt this as ELECTRICITY CAN AND WILL KILL!!!

Green = earth (safety)
Blue / Black = Neutral
Brown / Red = Live

The element is simply put in water and when it heats up it heats the water. The wires need to be insulated at the contacts so it does not come in contact with the water.


Posted on Nov 29, 2014

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1994 Grand am starter Wired wrong

All there is to it is 1 Power Cable &Accesories to 1 Big terminal And the small One to S terminal. There Is NO Ground "WIRE" to Starter It Is Grounded BY Being MOUNTED TO ENGINE

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

  • 1 Answer


need codes to hook up radio to 1999 buick century

Posted on Mar 07, 2009

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The wires with the large loops go on the big terminal. The purple wire likely is the one with the smaller loop that goes on the right terminal (facing the solenoid). That is ith trigger wire from the ignition key.Do not permit the wires from either terminals to touch.

Posted on May 24, 2009

  • 24 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 cadillac deville blower dont

red black and gray are just half the connections. Red is positive 12 volts coming from fuse of circuit breaker. The black wire is either the ground or the main hot wire going to the blower motor (3 pin connection only), and the gray wire (if is is small in size) is a variable voltage coming from the body control module requesting speed for the blower motor.The blower control module varies voltage on the main wire going to the blower motor, supposedly in accordance with the requested voltage from the body control module. Usually if all fuses are okay and present on the apprpriate wire of the blower control module, the a blower motor that will not run or stays running after the key is turned off is the fault of the blower control module. If the blower control module has failed the the cause must be determined (over amping blower motor) or else new blower control module may fail when powered up.Usually blower control modules have more than three wires. Usual connections are: B+ (battery voltage) GND (chassis or engine ground), two large wires going directly to blower motor (can be any color, but are usually 10 guage in size), and an optional wire that reports voltage level back to the body control module.

Posted on May 29, 2009

  • 1627 Answers

SOURCE: loose ground wire on headlight

You may need to pick up a new plug and some **** conecters and replace the plug to the headlight.Remove the old plug from the light ,cut off the wires one at a time and reconnect it to the coresponding wire on the old plug.

Posted on Oct 22, 2009

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Yes, All House are Earthed since Benjamin Franklin first discovered how to save buildings from Lightening Strikes.
Read this:-

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Rod believed to be an original of Franklin's
Once Franklin had an understanding of the behavior of electricity, he set about to protect houses from the destructive forces of lightning. A lightning rod, simply, is a rod attached to the top of a building, connected to the ground through a wire. The electric charge from lightning strikes the rod and the charge is conducted harmlessly into the ground. This protects houses from burning down and people from electrocution.
Franklin wrote, in 1753 It has pleased God in his goodness to mankind, at length to discover to them the means of securing their habitations and other buildings from mischief by thunder and lightning. The method is this: Provide a small iron rod (it may be made of the rod-iron used by the nailers) but of such a length, that one end being three or four feet in the moist ground, the other may be six or eight feet above the highest part of the building. To the upper end of the rod fasten about a foot of brass wire, the size of a common knitting-needle, sharpened to a fine point; the rod may be secured to the house by a few small staples. If the house or barn be long, there may be a rod and point at each end, and a middling wire along the ridge from one to the other. A house thus furnished will not be damaged by lightning, it being attracted by the points, and passing through the metal into the ground without hurting any thing. Vessels also, having a sharp point rod fix'd on the top of their masts, with a wire from the foot of the rod reaching down, round one of the shrouds, to the water, will not be hurt by lightning.
Look for 1/4" thick Copper Bare solid wire near where your Water pipe comes in the Hose or near the Electicty power comer into the house.

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Is it the sensor for the gauge or the computer? To test the ECT,one for computer,remove sensor from engine, using an ohm meter, ohm the terminals in the sensor and make note of the reading. Next, boil some water and place the sensor in the water from about 5 minutes and ohm the sensor again. If the resistance reading changed, the sensor is working. The one for the gauge, simply unplug the wire from the sending unit and ground it to the engine. turn the ignition key to the run position and see if the gauge goes to "hot". If the gauge moves while wire it connected to ground, the sending unit is bad.

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ok, what I meant was is it a live wire. Assuming it is and setting it aside, The other three must be leaving the switch. Hot in and three out for different speeds. The speeds are controlled downstrean on each wire either by resistors or motor design. The fan motor(s) are grounded at their mounting locations. So, touch the hot wire to each of the others one at a time to confirm. Then, turn the switch to low and insert the hot wire into a terminal until the one that that turns the fan on is found. Turn the switch off to confirm control and then turn switch to confirm control of the other two speeds. No need to worry about shorting anything, The ground would be your only fear and it's far remote. Good luck

Jun 25, 2009 | 2005 Chevrolet Venture

1 Answer

Temp guage read hot, volt guage reads low, and oil pressure guage tops out. Could this be a bad ground?

Possibly, i would check the sending unit and of course the wires that connect to the temp prob. They often become worn or even short out on other wires. I suspect that the gage is telling the truth and you have a blown head gasket. Check the oil for water. Check the water level and see if you are losing water. good luck

Jun 03, 2009 | 1996 Ford Thunderbird LX

1 Answer

Fuel pump relay losses power to yellow wire

If you wired it yourself, note: yellow is a source wire in most wiring systems - red - direct power (battery/fuse box) - yellow, relay switch to part/component (i.e. fuel pump{electric}); then ground.
Ground, if self-wired, can be grounded to the frame,body, any metal.

If the wiring is not the issue, replace the fuel pump relay, if haven't already. If this is not the problem, or has been replaced already, you may need to replace the fuel pump. NOTE: If this is the Ford e F250,350 etc. it may have a secondary fuel pump which would be located on the driver side mounted to the frame just behind the engine. I owned a 90 F250, 2WD, and no such part was installed. At least not there.

I had a similar issue with my truck, would start, sometimes run for a while and die, would drive, then randomly die while driving -

Check the fusable link next to the battery and ensure it is securely locked together - it is a twist and pull mechanism (plastic). This was the issue with mine. I tore the front of my engine apart thinking it was a timing issue, just to find out 4-5 times of doing that, that it was the fusable link - i too, replaced the fuel pump relay, fuse etc. -- check this first as it may be the cause (if carburated, also check all your plugs, wires, cap and rotor - if not carburated, have the coil packs tested - NOTE: the modular (coil packs sit/bolt to this) cannot be tested - look for bubbles, or sign of "boiled" sections. If such marking exist, it needs replaced. Have the coil packs tested anyway just to be sure. If they all test positive, your good to go - if not, replace as need - (also be suire to mark each one in the order they come off ) this doesn't really make any difference when you put it back together, however, this will let you know, in the event the modular is good, (no boils or bubbles etc) ; you will be able to determine which side (if three, left,middle,right) was the bad coil pack. Mark each, from left to right, as 1,2,3, or A,B,C - or however you deem suitable. This will be useful for reference in possible future occurrances.

I hope this information is helpful and you get your vehicle running smoothly. I understand your frustration with this particular issue, as it took me 2-3 months before I realized that the fusable link was the issue - had spent 3-4 hundred dollars in parts ---

Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Thank you,


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