Question about Cars & Trucks
I have 3/16 on mine
Lining thickness is dependent on a few factors. A. Is your lining bonded to the shoe or pad, or is it Rivited to the shoe or pad? B. What is the application? Lining thickness is determined ultimatley by the manufacturer. Generally speaking on Automotive and light truck applications new lining for brake shoes is between 6/32nds and 12/32nds of an inch. Add a couple 32nds if rivited. On front brake pads the lining is much thicker when new. On average a new brake pad can have lining between 10/32nds to 18/32nds. Pads are in need of replacement when bonded lining has worn to 2/32nd and rivited lining has worn to 3/32nds since the rivet head can come in contact with the disc brake rotor or drum at 1/32nds. Lining can also break free from the pad or shoe when they get that low due to rotor or drum out-of-round. This can cause lining to break free from the pad or shoe and cause dmage to the drum or rotor surface. When replacing brakes, its always good to have drums or rotors machined or replaced. For rotors, there are three specs to take into consideration. 1. Minimium machining thickness. If rotors are machined beyond their reccomended minimium machining they will warp due to heat. This warping will eventually lead to brake pedal pulsation. 2. Run-out; Run-out is measured using a dial micrometer and usually .003 to .005 of an inch is considered excessive. 3. Material Thickness Variation; or parralleism is measure with a micrometer. .0003 to .0005 ten thousandths of an inch is considered excessive. It is extremly hard to find a rotor that will pass all three of these measurements. If someone tells you the rotors do not need to be machined because they "look good", don't trust them because they don't know what they are talking about. Rotor condition can not be determined by the human eye. Drums have a maximium diameter they can not exceed, as well as an out-of-round specification as well. A good brake job will always have drums and rotors either machined or replaced. Money can be saved if they can be machined as it it cheaper to machine than replace.
Posted on Nov 28, 2014
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
it might be the drum that is causing the squeaks. Visually inspect the drums for excessive wear and also pits and grooves. The other option is that your return springs are REALLY bad and they might need replacing. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 10, 2009
If the light is for the parking brake check the switch that is above the parking brake pedal assembly. The switch may be bad or out of adjustment.
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
SOURCE: rear brakes don't work
You need to re evaluate your work for it is not assembled correctly. Some have a cable that is attached from the shoe to the self adjuster. To adjust without tearing it down again run the truck in reverse and stop it quickly. Do that 5 times and see if the emergency brakes start to work. If so the adjusters are connected correctly
Posted on Apr 06, 2010
SOURCE: 1994 Isuzu elf 150
the spec is on the drum
Posted on Nov 06, 2013
Testimonial: "thankyou for your input very helpful.i dont have a drum in question as this is an assessment course i doing and all i need are answers relating to the subject'"
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 27, 2014 | Cars & Trucks
Aug 14, 2013 | 2002 Kia Sedona
May 23, 2011 | Dodge Neon Cars & Trucks
Dec 27, 2010 | 1998 Honda Civic
Oct 01, 2010 | 1999 Toyota Corolla
Aug 26, 2010 | 1994 Cadillac DeVille
Sep 09, 2009 | 2006 Kia Sedona
Aug 07, 2009 | 1994 Toyota Corolla
Sep 14, 2008 | 1996 Ford Aspire
109 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!