Question about 2000 Nissan Maxima

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Replace aerial blade only

Don't know where to start.

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Most alternators are connected to the engine block by a metal bracket. One end of the alternator connects to a harness pivot point (a bit like your elbow), while the other connects to another bracket with a slot a few inches long (and curved). The bolt that goes through the curved/slotted bracket needs to be loosened (NOT removed), enough so you can pull the alternator in the direction which tightens the alternator belt... and when you get to that tight point, you quickly tighten the alternator tension bolt that you had previously loosened. (this is usually accomplished much easier with a tool that will allow you to easily pull the alternator tight while you tighten the bolt, or by having your Bestie there to do one action whilst you perform the other). After you are finished, you should check the belt's recommended tension parameter to make certain it's not too tight (which will cause the alternator bearings to wear-out quickly), or not too lose (which may cause the belt to squeak and/or your lights/power to dim with any drain on the alternator). Normally the only pain with this job is the placement of the alternator. If it's on the top of the engine assembly (most are), then it will be easier. If it's not, then it won't... but this just means you'll have tighter quarters to work within. While you're in there, I'd check the alternator with an amp-meter / volt-meter to make sure it's still doing its job. It does not sound as though your alternator is connected via a serpentine-belt, so I won't broach that topic. Good luck.

Posted on Nov 28, 2014

Testimonial: "Thanks but it is the radio aerial blade i need to replace i want to know how to do that."

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Measuring between the centre and the outer there should be an infinity reading on an ohmmeter, indicating no short circuits in the cable or aerial base. Measuring between the outer and a good ground the reading should be very low, no more than a few ohms indicating a good ground connection to the aerial base and of the aerial base to the bodywork.
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Just before you start, can I suggest that you DO test the radio and check that there is no fault in it. Particularly if you have removed an old radio with perfectly good reception. You might want to take it back to the shop and ask them to hook it up and test it for you. If the radio is clearly good, then my thoughts are as follows:

Typically the fault will eventially trace down to a portion of the outer copper brading in the cable being in contact with the inner core that carries the radio signal. This is usually right at the end in the plug and it's worth cutting off the plug and refitting a new one as a first step (You might even be able to carefully bare the inner core of the cable and push it into the cernre hole in the socket of the radio and test it before the new plug is fitted).

The second area of failure is typically the point at which the cable reaches the car aerial. It's not uncommon for water to get into a seal wher it is attached to the body and affect the performance of the aerial. Once again, you MAY be able to snip the cable at this end and re-make a nice clean dro connection. I have to be honest and say I don't know how the fitting go in this vehicle, so I'm shooting in the dark a little here. Obviously, if the vehicle has a built in aerial in the windscreen or back window somewhere, then my last suggestion is pretty redundant.

Finally, having tried to re-make connections at both ends of the cable, it's potentially time to buy a new aerial and cable and re-fit the whole thing from end to end. This is not a very fun job!

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