Question about Dodge Cars & Trucks
Ive tried new alternator clean filter check carb charge battery.
Sounds like either coil packs or crank sensor , one of those problems that is going to be troublesome to solve i think
Posted on Nov 28, 2014
It sounds like the ceramic diode on the firewall is starting to go bad. These are very common. Its a white part and should be very easy to spot
Posted on Nov 28, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
When trying to turn my truck on only clicking noise under hood and in dash. Sometimes even after key is pulled out clicking noise in dash continues for a couple of seconds. Battery and alternator was check at Advanced Auto parts they say both are good
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
do a continuity test from the large red wire on your alt to the battery,could be a fusible link or broken wire,sometimes a wire will break within the sheathing so it won't be visible by eye,check all conections for corrosion and either clean or repair
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
Ok then, from your description and the
make/model/year of the car you have there,
it appears you've reset the VATS.
The car's security immobilizer
reader at the key switch
does not recognize the coded
chip in the ignition key any longer.
You can try to put the key
in the ignition, turn to the on position &
wait at least 10 min like that.
(Do not turn off the key switch before
10 minutes as elapsed!)
Once done, the key is re-programmed and
should allow the fuel injectors to work again.
The car would start now if corrected.
In some cases, the VATS (GM'S VEHICLE ANTI THEFT SYSTEM)
will re learn the code this way, and will then
allow the restart, however if this does not work,
then you can simply tow it to any GM vehicle dealer
to have the service department re code it.
There is a permanent solution though.
Adding the PLJX Self learning Bypass module (59.95)
will bypass the PASSLOCK system in your vehicle
for good. See this at www.PASSLOCK2.com
Good luck I hope method 1 does the trick!
Here is the 30 min relearn:
Ignition keys relearn takes about 30 min to do. 30-Minute Learn Procedure 1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. 2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON; the vehicle will not start. 3. Observe the SECURITY tell tale light. After approximately 10 minutes, the light will turn OFF. 4. Turn OFF the ignition switch, and wait 5 seconds. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 - two more times - for a total of 3 cycles of 10 minutes. 3x10 = 30 minutes. The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch turn from OFF to CRANK Important: Turn the Ignition Switch OFF. The vehicle learns the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle. 6. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password. 7. With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if needed. History DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles. Without a scan tool you may have momentary starter interruptions while history clears itself.
Posted on Dec 23, 2009
SOURCE: 97 dodge ram no spark
then i would replace whats called the hall effect sensor its that black plastic plate you see when you take dist cap off. just pull rotor and lift up the sensor.dist cap is what holds it on.also under the sensor will be a stamped sheet metal piece that looks like the top of a castle wall. make sure its not loose on the shaft.if it is then new dist will be needed
Posted on May 09, 2010
SOURCE: My 2008 Dodge Avenger's battery
These cars have become notorious for high battery drain when parked. Coupled with the "exterior illumination" feature that turns on the headlights whenever you unlock the doors remotely, they discharge batteries at an alarming rate when just putted around town. This started happening to ours, and I removed the battery and opened it up (yes, you CAN do that, if you know what you're doing) and sampled the specific gravity. After a low rate recharge, ALL cells were actually a bit on the high side, typical for a cheap OEM battery, but indicating that there was a charge present. After three days of sitting and some cold weather, it wouldn't crank the engine again. The problem appears to be around town driving, along with the unneccesary use of headlights when unlocking, with the high current drain when parked thrown in. Also, the typical cheap Chrysler battery terminals need constant cleaning/burnishing. I highly recommend this and protective grease. Since doing this, I've had some "low charge" incidents, but the car always starts.
Posted on Jan 15, 2011
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