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Well something is leaning out the mixture when warm. I'm thinking the EGR valve is either sticking or its vacuum diaphragm is leaking. the EGR is usually not allowed to work until the engine warms up. The EGR vacuum modulator could also be at fault.
First look to see if you have a fuse for the blower motor...then you will want to disconnect power to the fan an jump 12 volts to the fan motor to see if it works...if ok, then there is a speed control resistor that sometimes goes bad located on the heater assembly...It is usually right past the fan so the fan can keep it cool and has 4 or more wires on it. if all else ok then last would be the switch inside car
i would start with the speed sensor, have the computer scanned for codes that will help to pinpiont the problem,i would bet its the speed sensor, hope this helps.
Ok i know this might be a little difficult to understand. BUt If you click on the link above. Find Diagram (a), That picture represents your switch, not complete but in theory. each Resistor means a Different speed. As you turn the Dial it applys current to all the resistor depending on which one it points to. As you can see the (i) represents current and lets say R3 represents "speed 5" Well in theory the less resistors the fast the speed. So the at low speed the dial will be pointing to R1 at medium fan speed the dial will point at R2 and at high Speed "speed 5" the Dial points to R3. Less Resistance More Current More Current more Speed. Now You have No R3...
This basiclly means that the who switch wihich includes Warm and cold and 1,2,3,4,5 and Defrost etc need to be replaced for 5 to work again.
If it was still running okay & no noise, probably no engine damage. Adding 2 quarts should have turned off the light if the problem was oil pressure. Sounds like the oil pressure sending unit may be bad.
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