Question about Cars & Trucks
You will need an OBD II scanner to read the check engine light code. The scanners are not expensive, starting around $20. Follow the instructions for the scanner; the male socket for the car will be under the dash, usually near the steering wheel. When you get the code, use the internet to look up what it means and go from there.
Posted on Nov 26, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check everything you can under the hood your air intake system all of it especially make sure all clamps are tight .. and make sure all vacuum hoses are good and not cracking or broken or just loose . you might run a little fuel cleaner through a tank of gas too cleaning the engine fuel system up some. just a few ideas.. Jerry
Posted on Apr 12, 2009
Check your TPS Throttle positioning sensor. Sounds like it has a dead spot in it or it is failing. May also be a wiring harness issue or loose connection at TPS too! If its intermittent then it will soon go out completely. It should be located on your fuel pedal. Remove it and check it with an ohm meter. Check resistance all the way thru from 0-100 percent. When it is not working it should do nothing and show no resistance. When it is working the resistance value will increase and or decrease as you turn the sensor.
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
I'm having same problem on my 2000 model rodeo 4wd 3.2L V6. Other day check engine light came on. I checked engine bay nothing abnormal, or power loss. Next day light was gone. 2 days later driving, a sudden loss of power and light came up. After idling for a couple of minutes, drove off with light still on but all power back. 1 hour later of faultless driving loss of power for a minute or so. Engine temp normal. Had break for 1/2 hour and set off for last hour of journey without fault except check engine light still on. Following dayon startup light went out???
Seeking help from experts.
Posted on Oct 11, 2010
SOURCE: 2001 Isuzu Rodeo 54248 miles
If problem is only on startup and when idleing, then the problem is likely IAC system, also a vacuum leak will cause the same problem.
If problem is not only on startup and idle, but also when driving, then MAP sensor and EGR system must be checked.
Check also accelerator cable state and setting.
The first thing to do is pulling out the OBDII fault codes stored in the ECM. This is done connecting a code reader to the ECM diagnostic port. The job can be done for a small fee at any local garage, and it is done for free at AutoZone.
The codes will help locating the problem.
About possible faults:
Problem is stalling when idling and during startup, but engine idling fast all the time. Problem not starting at times it is due to the fact that the wrong mixture is being sprayed, this is probably causing flooding and misfire. Since the CEL is on, one of the codes returned is probably misfire.
Check IAC system. This is composed by a valve and a solenoid that check and control amount of extra air air when the engine is idling. The IAC valve is located on top of the throttle body.
Check the vacuum system and try cranking with gas tank cap off. Vacuum system is tested using an hand tool gauge onvacuum lines while spraying card cleaner on the hoses (or heating them with a torch). If there is a leak, pressure will go up. A big leak will also do hissing noise, and will often result in a lean code when doing an OBD code scanning.
This kind of symptoms can also be caused by weak wiring to MAP/MAF sensor (MAP in this engine).
If the car also drives very rough and is revving up and down in a weird way, check the EGR valve.
As first thing I would do a code scanning. This car is OBDII. The scan can be done for free at the nearest Autozone, or for a small fee at any garage.
If you get any OBDII code from the scan, report it here, so that we can individuate the possible reason for the problem.
If you repute my solution helpful, then please take some times to accept the solution. Providing good repair tips requires time and skills, and your feedback is important for us.
Posted on Oct 26, 2010
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