Question about 2005 Chrysler 300

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How to move a front air dam on a Chrysler 300 c 2005 4d sed

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Look on Utube and enter very specific search terms. Also I have had luck asking questions at auto salvage places or asking the Chrysler dealer to give me a exploded parts diagram for the entire air dam assembly. They will be happy to do it ion most cases because you may have to order some new parts from them. But I alway's try the salvage yard first. Saves a ton of money. Also try Part's Geek and Auto Warehouse. They have some pretty good diagrams under a lot of different auto systems.

Posted on Nov 26, 2014

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Find someone with access to a maechanic shops computer database and get the technical information on the clips and removal, youtube has several videos, you will need to replace those plastic clips and push pins, the dealership should be able to print you out a bluprint if you buy 20$ worth of those little pins that never come out without breaking, there may be several rivets on your car, drill the centers and replace them with push pins, or rent a pop rivet gun from an autoparts store and get the fat head rivets from a honda shop to make it strong and tight

Posted on Nov 26, 2014

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Should be located on one of the bottom corners or bottom middle of the radiator, either in the front or rear side of the corners. It may be covered by a plastic air dam or under-engine fascia panel that may need to be removed to access the drain plug. Chrysler has also been known to hide their drain plugs behind the grille on the front of the vehicle so if you have no luck underneath the car, see if anything is visible behind the grille.

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I am looking for a diagram of the bumper assembly for a 2004 Chrysler town & country.


Hope this helps, it it does please leave feedback and vote Thank You and Good Luck


  1. Release hood latch and open hood.
  2. Remove the headlamp assemblies.
  3. Hoist vehicle and support with safety stands.
  4. Remove the five push pin fasteners attaching bottom of fascia/air dam to radiator closure panel.
  5. Remove front wheels.
  6. Remove front wheelhouse splash shields fasteners as necessary to gain access to bolts attaching front fascia to fender.
Fig. 1 133387737
Fig. 2 133387738

  1. Remove the two bolts and two nuts attaching fascia to the front fenders (Fig. 1) and (Fig. 2).
  2. Disconnect fog lamp wire connectors, if necessary.
  3. Lower vehicle.
  4. Remove two bolts attaching the upper grille support to the headlamp mounting panel at each side of the grille.
  5. Remove bumper fascia from vehicle.
INSTALLATION


  1. Position front bumper fascia on vehicle (Fig. 1) and (Fig. 2).
  2. Install the two bolts attaching fascia to headlamp mounting panel at each side of grille.
  3. Hoist vehicle and support with safety stands.
  4. Install the two bolts and two nuts attaching fascia to the front fenders. The fascia should be flush to fender.
  5. Install front wheelhouse splash shields fasteners.
  6. Install front wheels.
  7. Connect fog lamp wire connectors, if necessary.
  8. Install the five push pin fasteners attaching bottom of fascia to radiator closure panel.
  9. Lower the vehicle.
  10. Install the headlamp assemblies.

Jan 02, 2011 | Chrysler Town & Country Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Wondering where the exterior sencor is located for the outside temperature on a 1998 oldsmobile intrigue?


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Sep 06, 2009 | 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue

1 Answer

Plastic piece under car


Hello croddy327: My name is Roger and I will give you an answer. THe part you are talking about should be a air dam.The purpose of the dam is to cool the engine while driving. By design the dam catches air and diverts it up to the radiator. With out the dam the cars engine will run warmer of could over heat. Please rate the quality of this answer. If this answers your question? This is how we know you received the correct answer. Should you need more help please just ask. Thank You for using FixYa. Roger

May 04, 2009 | 1999 Chrysler Town & Country

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Active aeros on mitsu 3000gt


The Active aero on the front and rear are seperate and can fail seperately.
The rear often jams if the cables in the mechanism get stuck simply due to the grease drying up or there are two small relay switches in the mechanism that can fail so the electronics think give up trying to move and cause any damage.
The front air dam that lowers is driven off a simple motor and mechanical rod. the can jam or the motor can sieze.
both the front and rear mechanics can be removed relatively simply and cleaned which often solves the problem although it's not usually a permanent solution.
to test. turn the ignition on but keep the car stationary. press the aero switch all the way and the green light should come on and the air dam and tail should move. If the green light does not come on then I don't think you have a mechanical problem. When driving with the active aero turned on the air dam and tail will move above 45mph and reset when you go down below 25mph.
to access the front you need to remove the air dam itself from under the car. Two bolts at each end of the metal bar, two smaller bolts at each side of the air dam, two plastic clips in each wheel well and all the larger bolts directly on the bottom of the air dam. the motor assembly is on the passenger side. make sure it's not mechanically jammed or bent.
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testing for both front and rear can be done with the parts partially removed to look for mechanical issues.

Feb 25, 2009 | 1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT

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