Question about 2001 Chrysler 300M
Car won't start, multiple clicking when car is turned off.
The traditional "clicking" associated with starting is about the starter solenoid attempting to engage the start motor gears into the engine flywheel to turn the engine for starting. But, since you say the clicking sounds when key turns off then it doesn't sound starter related. All 8's sound like all the "segments" are lit up and you aren't getting a valid error code. This all sounds like a faulty computer. However, one easy and quick check is to ensure everything has a proper ground. Check any loose wire connections and voltage (battery) level. If all looks good then get a professional involved.
Posted on Nov 26, 2014
Multiple clicking indicates a weak battery. Get a slow charger to bring it up gently or, if in a hurry get someone to do a jump start. Once running you will need to check gauges for a charging problem. If no lights indicate a bad charging system, you will need a new battery.
Posted on Nov 26, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like the timing belt broke. Unfortunately this vehicle was not equiped with no contact valves so if that is the case you will need to have the engine and Head rebuilt. If the crank position sensor can't sense the position of the crank it should shutdown the electrical to keep you from damaging your engine.
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
700 tells you that there has been a "transmission control circuit malfunction", and 740 basically pinpoints the possible culprit, which is "Torque converter clutch control circuit malfunction". If you don't notice any difference in the way the transmission is shifting, especially when you are at cruising speed on highway, or you've basically reached the speed your going to travel at, and are no longer accelerating, your converter normally goes into "lock-up" and your engine RPM's will drop by approx, 200-300 RPM's. When your driving it basically feels like transmission shifted again, slightly. If all feels well, it may just be a one time thing, but being how transmissions are somewhat temperamental, as well as expensive to repair when big problems occur, I would certainly consider getting it in to a dealer for diagnosis at least, and see what they come up with, as it may only be a bad switch, or bad, corroded connection causing the codes. Remember, if it sounds like an expensive,extensive repair, then simply get all the info, and either stop elsewhere for diagnosis of same problem, (without telling them it's already been diagnosed) and see what second opinion has to say. If in doubt after that, get back to us, with diagnosis results, and we'll be glad to help you decide from there. One thing you may want to consider though, is a transmission service, (oil and filter change) if it hasn't been done in a while, just as a preventative maintenance thing. Changing of oil and filter in those transmissions at regular intervals, is a good way of extending the life of them. I recommend the new ,Autopar ATF4 transmission oil, which is more expensive, but guaranteed to last for lifetime under normal driving conditions. Chrysler/Autopar products tend to work better with it, and new filter, although there are many mechanics that will argue that fact, there are just as many mechanics and owners who have seen other oils cause problems, and when they switch to Autopar, those problems disappeared.
Posted on Dec 11, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks very much!!! I will have it checked out. I have just had a full service on the car and a new filter etc. installed. "
theres a reflash program that needs to be done on these cars, because of extended crank time and cam / crank syhcronizing out, start there,also i had one with same code and found that aftermarket cam sensors dont work, installed dealer part and had the updated reflashing done and solved the problem.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
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