Question about 1997 Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Benz S Class Coupe

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I kept getting a brake light signal,and had rough idleing when I started the car.Why wont my Mercedes 1997 S320 start ?

So far I have tried starting it by pushing the accelerator to the floor

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  • 755 Answers

Brake light is prob a bad bulb somewhere , totally seperate from the running problem , get your fuel pressure checked on the fuel rail not sure but should be about 40 50 lbs if not then your fuel pump is prob bad and it is in the tank

Posted on Nov 25, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: mercedes 190e 2.6 auto,starts fine

MAY REQUIRER THROTTLE BODY CLEAN UP,OR FUEL CLEANER IN THE SYSTEM...

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Rough idle, Car shakes, sputters and misfires upon acceleration

It sounds like you may have a problem feeding the fuel to your engine, I had the same problem with my 89 RS. All the 1989 model's fuel systems were recalled. I think you may need a new fuel pump. The fuel pump is located inside the gas tank in the rear of the car right under the rear axle. The fuel pump itself isn't too expensive, but with other small parts such as the electrical harness upgrade and fuel filter and the labor you should be looking somewhere in the $500 range. I hope this helps.

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

juststinks
  • 98 Answers

SOURCE: changing front brake pads, brake fluid starting leaking after removing bolts

there should be no brake fluid comming from the caliaber at all.look on the in side of the caliaber on the top and bottom you should see 2 long bolts. they may be hexagon,allen key, or a bolt. there are the 2 you are looking for. DO NOT SET PARKING BRAKE. when you take the bolts out you will see 2 small shafts where the bolts came out of. they must be push back in flat with the caliaber ( you may or may not have them). you have to open the lid where you add brake fluid. now take off the front pad leave the pad on in the hole. take your C-CLAMP and place it over the caliaber and the brake pab and compress the piston until it flat with the caliaber. ( you will repeat this on the other side ) at this point take your dic brakequit spred a coating on the parts thats need. ( referr to the old parts ) dont get anything on the front of the pad. let the pad sit for about 5min. ( smoke a cigarette. if you dont smoke i will teach that in part 2 ) now that the dic brake is tacky place the one that fixs in the hole on first now the outter one. slide it back on you may have to tap it in place after its seated replace the bolts. now your going to see that it has a gap between the brake pad and the rotor.replace the lid on where you add brake fuild. put the tier back on the car and pump your brakes. it should get hard. ( not you the brake pedal ) now repeat these steps for the other side.

you may have two bleed your brakes because you let fuild out that means you let air in. PLEASE let me know if this helped you.

Posted on May 10, 2009

samspelljr
  • 62 Answers

SOURCE: car dies-hard to start

EPC= electronic pedal control it is a sensor and is located in front of the brake pedal . Depress brake with one hand ,the sensor with the other and release fast. this should disengauge the EPC lock listen for a thunk made by the EPC lock disengaging.

Go to auto zone. They will use a code reader to help you find exact component or components having errors. If its not the EPC.
it sounds like your mass air sensor or the throttle control sensor may be bad. Your gas and air may not be mixing properly thus causing your car to sputter, hesitate, and idle rough. It could be some other thinks like a bad plug or wire etc. Good Luck hope this helps. Please rate me if this helps thank you.

Posted on May 15, 2009

  • 400 Answers

SOURCE: 3 symptoms in random! one Car ! 2000 Impala 3800

First thing I'd check is fuel pressure. 55psi

Posted on Dec 13, 2009

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1 Answer

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What would cause my 1998 Mercedes S320 not to start.


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Why wont my 1997 mercedes S320 start ?


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p01632
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as far as the abs it has to do with the brakes.

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Wont start sometimes, rough idle.


Sounds like a bad ignition switch. If your car has a lot of miles (200k miles is pretty common), then it's likely.

Once something breaks loose in the ignition switch, well basically you got lil pieces of metal floating around making contact where they shouldn't, which create the scenerios you're talking about.

The glow plug light may or may not be related. But you won't know til you get that first problem fixed.

If the rough idle eventually smooths up after it warms up, then yes, you probably need to look at the glow plugs and/or glow plug relay.

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