Question about 2002 Chevrolet Venture Passanger
Everything is in the engine compartment and exposed.Open the hood look to your left at the left rear of the engine compartment and turn on the wipers and observe the wiper linkage and listen for the wiper motor noise.DO NOT STICK YOUR FINGERS NEAR ANYTHING.Turn off the wipers and turn key off.There is a plastic cover at the wiper linkage motor connection area.remove it.My guess is the nut in the middle of the assembly has come loose.Check that nut,is it tight?If not great it's an easy fix.If the nut at the linkage/motor connections are good the problem may be internal to the wiper motor.The good thing is the used wiper motors for these are cheap and easy to change!
Posted on Apr 22, 2017
If the motor is working, the linkage between the motor and the wipers has broken. I don't have a Venture, but usually there is a plastic panel below the windshield, where the wiper arms are mounted. You remove the wiper arms, then remove the plastic panel (might be screws or it might just snap out) to get at the linkage and motor. Dealer or auto parts store should be able to order new linkage arms for you.
Posted on Nov 25, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the wipers were buried under snow/ice or frozen to the windshield, you may have blown the red 10 amp fuse located in cavity 9 in the fuse block located on the bottom left side of the instrument panel near the parking brake pedal.
In order of easiest to check:
1) ensure wipers not frozen to windshield.
2) ensure wiper arms are not loose on the pivot stud,
3) check the red 10 amp fuse.
You stated that "you can hear the motor". Which motor do you hear? The engine or the wiper motor?
If you hear the wiper motor, then the fuse is alright. Try 1) and 2) above.
Posted on Jan 23, 2009
Well, having just dealt with this on our 2000 Lesabre... this is an unfortunate fate for windshield wiper setups...
Basically the knurling on both the male & female portions of the wiper arm's pivot point have worn clean off, or are very close to gone.
The following solution is my 'get it working now' fix... it's not as official and/or costly as replacing the whole wiper linkage... not to mention how difficult it may be in pulling apart the necessary components to first get at the wiper linkage, and then actually removing it from the vehicle(serious pain on some vehicles)... and then of course installing a new one, assuming you can even find/afford one through the local stealership.
What I did, which has worked so far:
First, get access to the nut which holds the wiper arm to the pivoting point; there should be a cover or cap which will remove to expose this nut I talking about. Be sure the wiper arm is in a position that you want it in... then tighten that thing(the nut) if it's not already tight - a relative "really tight" is recommended, but do stop short of jumping on the ratchet or wrench. To verify tightness, check that wiper arm for wobble, i.e. semi-gently move/pivot it in all sorts of directions, to see whether it is actually sitting tight up against the pivoting stud that you just tightened the nut down against. I've seen the female/upper part of the wiper body lift & shift around which makes tightening things a bit of a fine tuning process until you manage to get the wiper body low & seated fully onto the pivoting stud part.
The next part is to more surely "bond" the wiper arm to the stud that it pivots on(and causes it to pivot too). Just make certain the wiper arm is tightened down in the position you want it to be(low/at-rest alike to the other wiper on the windshield) before proceeding
You'll very likely need a super hard drill bit to have success in drilling through the portion of the wiper arm that sits around the pivot-point/stud and into the stud itself some distance.
I'd suggest an 1/8" carbide drill bit(likely not available at your local hardware store, and I don't recall if anything less-hard will work to drill
that stud) acquirable via Use-Enco.com
Once a hole is drilled through the outer wiper arm metal(sometimes even as soft as aluminum, but regularly mild steel), and a good ways into the very hard pivoting stud material, get yourself an 1/8" diameter roll-pin/friction-pin in the 1/2" to 5/8" range and tap/hammer it into your newly made drill-hole. The roll/friction pin is designed to fit tight inside of an 1/8" hole so you won't find it coming out on its own(unless you didn't drill the hole deep enough, or wobbled the drill bit while drilling thus making the hole larger than 1/8").
Roll-pins, like wipers, are typically black so not much should be seen from any casual glance or typical once-over of the vehicle.
The fix should turn out to be(in every ideal sense) an easily disappearing, effective long term fix.
I hope that goes well for you.
Posted on Jan 30, 2010
Look online for the wiper module for this model. This is a common issue to include operation without the switch being activated. Everything is controlled by the module which screws directly on the front of the wiper motor by 3 torx head screws and measures about 4" x 4" and is very easy to install. The motor should be on the firewall. The modules run anywhere between $35 and 65. Let me know if you need anything else.
Posted on Jul 20, 2010
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