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My car starts for few seconds than shut down when i start it with the remote, when shut down of battery still same thing, any help?

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 3,368 Answers

For starters I would suggest giving model and make so somebody has a chance to help you. There are millions of cars out there. If it is an old one check the ballast resistor.

Posted on Nov 25, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

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  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 169 Answers

SOURCE: crank no start

SOUNDS LIKE THE CRANK SENSOR POSS. AS I HAVE ONE HERE THAT I JUST DIAGNOSED FOR THE SAME THING WITH A SCAN TOOL WHEN WE FINALLY GOT IT NOT TO START. I'LL FOLLOW UP AFTER SENSOR INSTALL

Posted on Aug 21, 2008

emissionwiz
  • 75822 Answers

SOURCE: car starts run's 3 seconds shuts down

Your car is equipped with a system called PASSKEY standard on all GM cars and light trucks, try the following procedure to reset the system, the battery being dead will trigger the system.

PASSKEY LOCKOUT RESET GM CARS 1999 UP
1) Put the key in the ignition and turn to the "ON" position. Leave it that way for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes turn the key and take it out. Repeat this process (2) more times (3 times, 30 minutes total) This should reset the passlock system to recognize your key.

Posted on Mar 30, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: car starts but shuts off

Replace the crank sensor. This happen to me

Posted on Sep 16, 2009

  • 1509 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 with a 3.3 grand caravan had bad battery

You need to reset the security system or the car is out of gas. Sounds like it cranking just fine and the car just ran out of gas. The other possible pfoblem if this was a daily driver just before this happened then the Security system may need reset. With the battery disconnected and the drivers door closed but the window openwith the key on connect the battery. turn the key off and lock and unlock the drivers door then get in like normal close the door and start the car,

Posted on Aug 17, 2010

SOURCE: The car sustarted fine, but suddenly shut down as

Several things could be the cause:- Before looking at the list below ensure that the throttle body interior is spotlessly clean and that the air ducting and all vacuum lines are free of leaks. Check all relays and fuses On the fuel line on the engine there is Shrader valve (like the one for the tire). It is possible to check fuel pressure at this point with a gauge. If there is insufficient pressure here then this points to a possible fault with either the fuel pump, its relay or its fuse.
1) Idle air control - The idle air control is closely associated with the throttle body. Its function is to bleed air to the inlet manifold past the closed throttle plate. There are teo types of throttle control a) a motor that opens the throttle plate a tiny amount b) an auxiliary passage opened by a valve around the closed throttle plate How to check? Physically remove the IACV but keep the electrical connection to it. Turn the engine on and examine the IACV valve movement in response to additional loads (power steering inputs etc). The valve should open and close according to demand causing perceptible change in engine speed with increased power demand being made on the engine.

The electrical connector to the IACV can have 2 or 4 pins:-

2 pins: resistance between pins should about 10 OHMS +/- 3 OHMS. Resistance between either of the pins and the valve body is greater than 10,000 OHMS

4 pins: resistance between diagonally positioned pins should be about 20 OHMS

2) Throttle position sensor - Sometimes with ignition off it is possible to reset the TPS by depressing the accelerator fully and releasing quickly. Ignition might be enhanced by depressing the the throttle slowly. If the car cuts out if the accelerator is depressed quickly this is another indicator of a bad TPS. How to check? The socket for electrical connection with the TPS has 3 pins, one for 'ground', one for 5 volts 'reference' and a third (generally the middle one) for 'signal' output. Back probe the signal pin in the connector to the TPS. Attach the positive lead of a voltmeter to the probe and measure the voltage output as the throttle plate is rotated. If working correctly the meter should show a voltage consistent with the throttle position from approximately 1 volt when closed and 5 volts when fully open. What is looked for is smooth voltage increase with throttle change. If there are drop outs in the transition or that there is no transition seen the TPS is faulty.
3) cam or crank sensor faults - 2 pin socket (magnetic - sine wave output). One pin is 'ground' the other is 'signal'. A voltmeter set to 2 volts AC should measure a signal in the 0.2 to 2 volts range on the 'signal' pin.

3 pin socket (Hall effect, magneto - square wave form output). One pin is 'reference' (5volts), one pin is 'ground' and the third pin is 'signal'. A DC voltage should be detectable in the 0.5 to 1.5 volt range from the 'signal' pin.

It is important that the voltage measurement take place at start up when the engine is cold and again, 20 minutes later, when the engine has fully warmed up to operating temperature. Often the voltage output from faulty sensors declines with temperature rise. I appreciate here that due to a lack of starting in your case it just might be impossible to check the 'warmed up' situation. I hope this helps.

Posted on Nov 10, 2010

Testimonial: "Thank you very much!! I will check into it."

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