Question about Cars & Trucks
Maybe it's bad injectors or the computer not telling them to work. Or also a bad ignition module in the distributor would make it not work. You can take it out and have it tested
Posted on Nov 24, 2014
Your car's engine needs three things, fuel, spark and air. If you have an OBD scanning tool, you can plug it into the OBD port under your dash and test all sensors and components to see if you have any failures. You can also borrow these tools at your local auto parts stores like AutoZone, Orielys, NAPA etc.. Verifying fuel to an injector is not an easy DIY task for everyone.
1) Make sure you don't have an obstruction in the airway (especially a clogged old air filter) from the air inlet all the way to the MAF sensor and into the intake manifold.
2) Make sure you have plenty of fuel in the tank.
3) You could have a relay or fuse that has blown thus not allowing the coils to fire the spark plugs. That would have to be checked also.
What you might think is lack of fuel to the engine could be lack of spark to ignite the fuel. All three (fuel,air,spark) need to be tested.
Posted on Nov 24, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Stick with me on this
1.Put the car on jack stands
2.Remove the exhuast manifold, Do not rotate the flex cuopling more then 4 degrees od damage will occur.
3.Diconnect the coolant inlet pipe from the water pump outlet hose, Disconnect from the engine, disconnect it from the thermostate housing and remove it.
4.lower the car back down of the jack stands.
5.Detach the brack booster hose.
6.Remove the timing chain cover and the tensioner.
7.Remove the heater outletpiper from the water pump.
8.Remove the water pump cover bolts.
9.Remove the water pump retianer nuts.
Remove the old gasket and clean.
10.On bench. Install the waterpump and cover but lreave the bolts finger tight.
11.Install back in car, leave water pump bolts looseto allow for positioning.
12.Install water pump cover to engine, tighten by hand.
13.Lubricate oringand install metal outlet pipe back into pump, hand tighten.
14a.Tighten the water pump to timing chain nuts
14b.Tighten the water pump cover to water pump housing bolts.
14c.Tighten water pump cover to engine block bolts.
14d.Tighten the radiator outlet pipe to water pump.
15.Install timing chain tensioner.
16.Install exhuast manifold.
17.Install exhuast pipe.
18. Fill it up and bleed the system.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
My 2000 cavalier has done this for 6 months. You take your key out then open your door, wait ten minutes and the system resets itself and the car will start-annoying you bet!!!
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
First, if your car still runs, pull the fuel pump relay, and start your car, letting it run until it dies. This will depressurize the fuel system. Then you must support the fuel tank, and take loose the straps that hold it up. Slowly lower the tank until you can unhook the tank filler hose and overflow hose by taking the clamps off and sliding the hoses off. lower it some more, and unhook the fuel lines; they require you to insert a special tool around the edge of the connection, however this can be improvised with screwdrivers or a piece of plastic or metal bent into a C shape. Next unhook the wire connection. Once you get it down, it's easiest to empty as much fuel as you can; as this will help you get it back into place. The fuel pump is inside the tank, which locks into place with a 1/8th turn. You will need a hammer and a brass punch for this job, as it needs to be tapped around to unlock. It will then lift out. Compare the two pump assemblies. The inside parts can be slightly different, but ensure that the fuel lines are IDENTICAL and the wire connection is IDENTICAL. The new one will come with a new silicone seal. Ensure that you don't put the new one in in such a way as the float doesn't bind, otherwise you'll be doing this procedure again if you don't like guessing how much gas you have. This can be a challenge to wrestle with putting the new one in, as you have to push it down to compress the new seal, and turn it to lock it. Once you get it started, you can let up and use the hammer and punch again to tighten it the rest of the way. Next, put it back together just as you took it apart, and don't forget to hook up the wires, hoses, and fuel lines. No tools required for the fuel lines, they just snap together. Once everything's tight and hooked up, put gas back in it, and if you haven't already, put the fuel pump relay back in. This you can do as soon as the car dies, and is completely optional if the car won't run at all. You are now ready to start it up, but turn the ignition on to the run position, wait a few seconds for the pump to pressurize, and then start it. Have fun, and feel free to ask any questions should you have any.
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(see Figures 1 and 2)
CAUTION The fuel injection system remains under pressure, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.
WARNING The modular fuel sender assembly may spring up from its position. When removing the modular fuel sender from the tank, be aware that the reservoir bucket is full of fuel. It must be tipped slightly during removal to avoid damage to the float.
Gently pull on the fuel pump reservoir from retainer to assure a secure fastening. If not secure, replace the entire fuel sender.
Fig. 1: The module fuel sender assembly is mounted in the fuel tank
Fig. 2: Modular fuel pump component identification
Hope this help to solve your problem (remember comment and rated this).
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
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