Question about Cars & Trucks
Most likely you need a battery
Posted on Nov 27, 2014
Take your battery out and have it checked, specific gravity, and load test. Your battery, you say is charged but may have a bad cell or not have the cranking power to turn over your truck. You say 6 starters in 5 years. Was there any new batteries during this time, or is this one the only one. The way you describe your problem leads me to believe your battery is the problem.
Posted on Nov 24, 2014
Starter solenoid may be having trouble (little box type thing on the passengers side inner finder that has a bunch of wires coming to it) You may need to also make sure the surface where the starter bolts to is clean and not corroded. If it is, it will not get correct ground, thus sounding and acting like a bad battery/starter.
Posted on Nov 24, 2014
What happens to the headlights when trying to crank the starter?
If they DIM: low battery.
If not dimming a lot: Bad connection or bad ground to engine,bad connection at battery or starter.
Have a helper to HOLD the ignition key in the START position and feel the cables at and from the battery.It won't hurt for 20 seconds,or so.
Do they get hot?
What up with all of the starters? I hope they are in warranty....!
Posted on Nov 24, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It has to have 2 batteries because it is a diesel engine. Diesels use compression to fire the combustion mixture instead of a spark plug as a gasoline engine does. It has glow plugs that heat the mixture up before starting to help promote this and it has probably twice the compression ratio,therefore it takes alot of amps to start it and that is why you have 2 batteries. No it still only has one solenoid for the starter but it has to use a gear reduction starter instead of a conventional one.
Posted on Feb 06, 2009
its the passlock system. The passlock wire is tiny and fragile, and gets disrupted causing your car to think you are trying to steal it everytime you put your key in.
now you can search for this video on youtube, this is where i learned and ever since i did this i have had NO problem with my car starting for the past 5 months.
you need wire nuts, wire cutters, electrical tape, n socket wrench to take apart steering column
first, go to your fuses, find the airbag fuse and remove it just incase you snip the wrong wire. what you do is look below your steering wheel and take your steering column apart. there are a serious of wires electrical taped together that are plugged in. you peel all the electrical tape back exposing the wires, and you find the WHITE wire. its all white, no other color. This wire is for your Passlock system.... this is the wire that got faulty and is causing the car not to start. now what you do from here is kinda tricky, not too bad though.
Seclude the white wire from the rest, so that you are ready to make your cut. Now, what you do is start your car, leave it running, and while its running you cut the white wire in half. then after cutting the wire, turn your car off, and then turn it back on. it should start right up. Then just put wire nuts on the two ends, and electrical tape them back together
The point of doing this is, one is disables the passlock system completely, and two the reason why you do this while the car is running is because snipping the wire with the car running makes the car think that it got into an accident or something, and puts the BCM/car into a "Fail-safe" mode, making it start every single time no matter what.
i thought this sounded insane at first, but after searching for a couple of hours its the only answer that made sense. and now i am the happiest camper in the world as far as it starting
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
Yes. the starter is malfunctioning at this time. it could also eb a ignition issue as well. here is a quick starter test procedure that will help you troubleshoot a bit.
Step 1 Check for 12 volts on the large wire attached to the top terminal on the starter relay. It should have battery voltage. If not, the battery, terminals or wire is bad.
Step 2 Check the small wire on the solenoid for power when the key is in the start position. Remove the small wire on the solenoid and have a helper hold the key in the start position. Check the wire for battery voltage. If there is voltage, the starter is bad. If there is no voltage, replace the wire.
Step 3 Check the fuse in the fuse box under the hood on the left fender well. If it is good, check the relay by pulling it out and checking for power at one terminal with the key off. If there is no power, the problem is in the fuse box between the fuse and the relay. If there is power, have the helper hold the key in the start position once again and check for power at another terminal from the ignition key. If there is power, the relay is bad. If there is no power, the starter circuit is suspect.
Step 4 Check to see if there is power to the neutral safety switch if there is no power at the relay. Use the voltmeter to check for power with the key in start. If there is power going in, check for power going out. If there is no power going in, the security system or ignition switch is suspect. If there is power going in and none coming out, the switch is bad. If there is power coming out, the problem is between the neutral switch and the relay.
Step 5 Remove the cover on the bottom of the steering column. Check the solid yellow wire for power when the key is in the start position. If there is no power, the ignition switch is bad.
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
SOURCE: '92 Ford Tempo won't start.
You still have two components that need checking...perhaps you have a bad battery cable?! They do corrode inside sometimes making the battery hard pressed to send the current needed to run the starter. You may get enough amps and volts to run the lights but not enough for the starter.
You can try jumping the starter with jumper cables just to see if the works. You can leave the car in park and key off since the only thing you want to do is turn the starter.
Posted on Dec 16, 2009
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