Question about 1996 Suzuki Sidekick
Have 1996 Suzuki Sidekick. Will "bog" down under heavier load of accelerator. I've checked compression, air intake (including sensors), plugs, wires, cap and rotor all new. Timing was 2 degrees off. Fixed it. It will run fine at higher RPMs and lean out of the Bogging. Checked fuel pump, it is pre loading the motor. There also seems to be some raw fuel coming out of the tail pipe. i've almost narrowed it down to a fuel problem. Wondering if you all had any further light or wisdom to bestow..Cheers.
Raw fuel from the tail pipe I would think maybe a bad TPS, fuel pressure regulator or injector. More than likely a bad regulator or throttle position sensor. Check your fuel pressure after the regulator at idle and wide open throttle. At an idle the pressure should be 20-30 psi lower than at wide open throttle. If your getting to much fuel pressure it can cause it to bog down and lose power due to extremely rich conditions.Will also have strong exhaust fumes.
Posted on Nov 24, 2014
Compression at 170psi or more (Wide open throttle?) if not
but way low, the timing belt is slipped. (a 60k service point)
sure my list is endless. not knowing data. like real compression numbers......
first off the cluster has warning lamps is the CEL on , keyon>?
and after starting does the CEL go out> if not scan it.
all 96s (uSA) any scan tool sold works, for this car.
even 9 buck tools. hint?
seems it has a leaking injector, no? that much fuel
and is not bogging ,its lean not lean , its rich misfire. loss of power
and id bet for sure storing P0300s or close , yes>?
why not use a scan too.
and check all 4 spark plug tips of fuel soaking.
if one injector does leak, the next test is the NOID lamp
to see if the ECU is bad , causing the injector to stick on.
NOID lamp sticks on. means that.
see misfire page. (its not bogging, its misfiring i bet.)
this is the first things to do with EFI find out if to rich or too lean, x4
spark timing is done with the timing freeze jumper planted
or you did it wrong.
other causes of DRIP DRIP of fuel>
fuel pressure not 30 psi but 60,
a: return line blocked.
b: ;Fuel pump reg at fuel rail bad.
ECU injector drivers shorted (noid test)
spark plug wells full of oil ,do to no 60k service and new gasket there.
same full of water, doing pressure washing jive.
Cam belt slipped, (oldest story on earth, lucky its not interference engine like stinkn hondas
here are all ways to misfire (50 ways)
but not as many tests. to find it. just simple tests.
(is it rich or lean, is it one cylinder or all) etc.
Posted on Nov 24, 2014
Testimonial: "Ok. Thanks for the debate of the issue guys. My friend has similar motor and will lend me his tps (which works fine) to test it. Compression tests showed 150, 150, 155, 150. Those were spot on. The wires cap and rotor showed a good amount of electricity flowing through... I forget off the top of my head what it was but electricity is fine. I'm leaning towards a overly rich fuel moisture from either the injectors or tps. Will keep you posted on the results."
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: no power when accelerating
Once you rule out some kind of ignition problems,; spark plugs and wires, ignition timing, distrib. cap & rotor, the cause may be low fuel pressure from a failing pump or clogged filter. Listen to the pump in the gas tank. If its been getting louder lately, have the pressure tested.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
It often means that you are burning antifreeze. You asked if it needs antifreeze, have you noticed any leaking out of the reservoir tank while you are running it? Sometimes when the head gasket goes it will produce a passage for the antifreeze to pass from the capillaries into the combustion chamber. It is easy to check if you have an air compressor. Remove one of the rear sparkplugs and the radiator cap. Fill the radiator and then push some air into the sparkplug hole (get a good seal in case a valve is open). Repeat with all the cylinders and watch for air bubbles coming up into the radiator. If bubbles come up or fluid is pumped out, the head gasket is blown and must be replaced. It is more likely to happen at the back of the engine because it is farthest away from the fan and therefore gets less cooling. Also check your oil for discoloration. If it is a brownish color it could mean your oil and antifreeze are mixing and has the potential to damage your bearings
Posted on Jan 29, 2009
Your Rpm needs to be high in this little 4 banger makes the most torque at 4000rpm and horse power peeks out around 5600rpm. I own a 95 side kick gotta gear down espicialy if you've put bigger tires on
Posted on Jan 31, 2009
if you live in the states... just go to an autozone... they will scan the codes for free. you may also be able to retrieve the codes by turning the key off and on 3 times and counting the amount of times the check engine light flashes. almost like morse code... when you reach code 55 that's the end of the codes. this does not always work.
Posted on Apr 19, 2009
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