Question about 2000 Honda Accord

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2000 honda accord v 6, replacing idler pulley

Not enough room to remove bolt from idler pulley. Pushing up against metal body.

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  • 11 Answers

Undo the engine mounting and raise or lower the engine untill the bolt gets to a location that it can be removed

Posted on Nov 23, 2014


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 84 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 honda accord ex v-6 3.0 engine........won't start in hot wea

replace main relay

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

Testimonial: "good call right on the money......thanks"

  • 115 Answers

SOURCE: 1991 Accord 2.2L timing belt replacement

yes standard right hand thread,the easiest way is with a very powerful air gun with an impact socket,be warned have had to use an 1 inch drive lorry gun to undo these bolts as have a compression washer under the bolt head,Good luck,

Posted on Aug 06, 2009

  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: cannot remove harmonic balancer bolt on 96 honda (2.2L)

You may need an impact gun. If loctite was used, you will need a gun.

Posted on Sep 13, 2009

  • 466 Answers

SOURCE: how do i remove crank pulley bolt from 1994 honda

Ok that bolt loosens counterclockwise but you need an impact gun that has a good torque does not come out otherwise. Thanks

Posted on Mar 24, 2010

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: head bolt torque specs for 200 honda accord 3.0

its a three step process 1st 29ft/lbs 2nd 51ft/lbs 3rd 72.3ft/lbs

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

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How to replace Crank Seal , Honda Accord 95, F22B2 engine

this is covered in the FSM. 95 accord.
did you google this?

are you sure its only the crank seal,????
gravity lies. as does windage effects.
is this an A/T or M/T car, the latter makes the bolt come off easy
(5th gear + brakes) the slush pump tranny NOT.
so if you read the FSM it states." it shows photo of tire off and pulley bolt view and how the body ends just above that bolt, (see it?)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the accessory drive belts.
  3. If necessary, secure the crankshaft with a flywheel holding tool.
For some engines, a special pulley holder tool is available to secure the pulley while removing and installing the bolt (refer to the illustration)."
4 Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. This bolt can be difficult to remove. Spray the bolt with penetrating oil and allow it to soak overnight. Book forgets to see CCW direction on bolt (RHT)
the bolt will take about 200fl/lbs of reverse torque to get off.
5 Carefully remove the pulley from the crankshaft. Do not pry it off.
Remove the key from the crankshaft sprocket. Be sure not to lose it.
7 -If necessary, remove the tool holding the crankshaft.

remove seal with seal puller or screw trick ,etc.
do not damage the seal base collar of the housing. DO NOT.

is this your first engine seal work>?
or done many , just need help with one honda.?
if doing all work on a honda, did you ever consider a real FSM?
why not get one, and read it, and all the steps and warnings.
worst case.
if you work engines, you know as you go , you see
Omg, it not the crank it the cam leaking, or just a bad valve cover.
fate happens, distributor seal leak too.

with all FWD, doing a crank seal can be easy or hard.
no access panels in finder
or on some cars, 7ton pressed on pulley, (Dodge neons/ yuk)

bolt spec:
1994-95 Accord and Prelude-181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm)

if the 90,000 mile timing belt is ignored, you will bend the head valves over, or worse... so...... all this , is a consideration.

Feb 25, 2014 | 1995 Honda Accord

8 Answers

Replacing waterpump on 2000 honda accord se 4cyl

The bolt is torqued at 150 ft/lbs, normal thread.

Either you have a high torque impact wrench or you need a special tool to hold the pulley.

Make sure you get the timing belts markings correct before removing them. The balancer shaft belt can cause a lot of problem if not correctly installed.

Thank for using Fixya.

Jul 13, 2008 | 2000 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Adjust timing on acura 2.5tl

1) Remove cooling fans for access. Remove accessory belts. Release PS hose clamp which is also in the way.
2) Break crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer bolt and remove pulley (inspect closely for any defects or loosness between outer pulley and inner section). This can be difficult. I use a Honda restraint tool and 1/2" breaker bar jammed against drivers side frame to hold the engine, and 19-mm deep impact socket, 1/2"-breaker bar, and 3-ft cheater pipe over breaker bar to gain leverage. This works good. Air impact is an option only if you remove the radiator for horizontal access room. Not worth all the trouble.
3) Remove upper and lower TB covers
4) Replace TB, water pump, and idlers.
5) Reverse to close. Torque crankshaft pulley bolt to spec.
Mercedes Wheels

Nov 23, 2012 | 1997 Acura TL Series

1 Answer

I have a 2000 gmc Jimmy . I'm going to change the

Locate the idler pulley to the left of the crankshaft pulley. The idler pulley bolts to the idler arm. The idler pulley is replaced with the arm because they are sold as one unit.

  • 2 Place a 3/8-inch ratchet driver into the square hole on the face of the idler pulley and pull up on the handle. This releases tension on the Sonoma's serpentine belt. Pull the belt off the idler pulley, lower and remove the ratchet handle.
  • 3 Remove the two bolts that secure the idler arm to the engine block using a socket and ratchet, and discard the old idler arm.
  • 4 Place the new idler arm against the engine block and secure it using the socket and ratchet.
  • 5 Put the ratchet driver into the square hole on the new idler pulley, pull up on the handle and place the serpentine belt over the pulley.
  • 6 Lower and remove the ratchet handle.
  • Oct 15, 2011 | 2000 GMC Jimmy

    1 Answer

    Replace alternator and finding the tension pulley to remove the serpentine belt.

    tensioner pulley is only for the a/c of honda accord. belt of alternator can be remove or adjust by the alternator on an axis bolt.

    Feb 10, 2011 | 2000 Honda Accord

    2 Answers

    I'm changing nout the serpentine belt and need to know what to loosen to get sone slack in the belt. it"s a 2000 ford expedition with a 4.6l engine.

    You need to put a socket with a rachet on the tensioner pulley and manually release the tension this tensioner has a spring in it that you push against to release the tension.

    Feb 09, 2011 | 2000 Ford Expedition

    1 Answer

    How do i change the idler pulley on a 2000 Ford Windstar?

    Remove the belt or loosen it enough to move it off of the idler pulley. If you are going to remove the belt, draw you a diagram of how it wraps around each pulley first, if you don't have one.

    The one large bolt that holds the idler pulley on will have to be removed, it is all that holds that pulley on.

    Note any spacers/washers as everything must face in the same direction and be reassemble as it was, including the way the pulley mounts to be sure the belt aligns perfectly watch for a spacer on the back side also.

    good luck.

    Feb 15, 2010 | 2000 Ford Windstar

    1 Answer


    At least you have the 4 liter 6. Once you get all the **** out of the way its like replacing a W/P on an "old school" engine, very much like a Ford or Chevy straight 6. 1) Remove radiator top retainer (the metal U that looks like its the top of the radiator (#13 or 14mm sockets I think). 2) To completely get if off you also have to remove the grill (4-6 phillips screws), then 3) unbolt it from the tubular bumper retainers underneath the grill. 4) DO NOT remove the latch cable - no need. 5) Remove the top bolts holding down the fan shroud. Lift the shroud off its bottom "tabs" and push over the fan. 6) Using #10mm socket remove fan from fan clutch, then remove bolts holding fan clutch onto water pump pulley. 7) Pull out shroud, then fan, then fan clutch. Be very patient, lots of wiggling may be needed. 8) Locate belt tensioner on idler puller below the Power steering pump. Losen very little the pulleys center bolt (10mm), then use a 10mm w/entension to losen the pulley's tension (use counter clockwise/normal rotation to losen). 9) Draw a diagram of the belt routing - you will Never remember it correctly otherwise. 10) Tap the w/p pully and pull if off - do not hit radiator fins! 11) Drain the radiator (clockwise/right rotation opens petoc from factory radiators - counterclock used on aftermaket rads). 12) Remove lower raditor hose at radiator, then at pump (it will be a challenge). 13) Remove upper radiator hose from rad and from thermostat housing. 14) losen the Rubber heater hose from the metal hose screwed into the W/P. 15) Remove 4 bolts from W/P (13 or 14mm I think). The one at the 4oclock position is longer than the others. One is hidden at 6oclock.
    16) Remove 2 bolts (14-15mm??) on bottom of Power Steering mount - these go through the W/P case to the block. You may also need to losen the top PS bolts so the PS Bracket can be loose at the W/P case. 17) Wiggle the W/P out from under the PS bracket. and pull off. (16b if needed, remove the upper idler pulley near the A/C unit.) 18) Remove the Thermostat (upper hose return) housing. Scrape off old gasket. Replace with 160deg or 190deg thermostat. Use silicone on gasket. 19) Carefully use a 17 or 19mm box wrench to remove the metal heater hose return line from the upper part of the old water pump. Coat threads with spark plug thread antiseize and screw onto new W/P. 20) Install new W/P gasket w/silcone, be careful to Not block the water holes. 21) Slide W/P under the P/S bracket and jiggle into place. Hand thread one of the top bolts to hold the W/P in place. 22) Insert the P/S bracket bolts and lightly tighten. 23) Jiggle W/P around and insert other bolts, start with the 6oc hidden bolt. Add remaining bolts and tighten to 25 or 250?ftlb (about 3/4 past socket-snug). 24) Tighten ALL P/S bolts. 25) Adjust metal heater pipe. Reinstall rubber heater hose. 26) Reinstall W/P pulley and Fan clutch, and upper idler if it was removed. 27) Thread NEW Belt on pulleys. 28) Tighten tension on idler. Tighten idler axle bolt. 29) Install lower rad hose. 30) Slide shroud over pulleys. 31) Install fan on clutch. 32) Clip shroud retainer bolt mounts back on top of radiator. 33) Install shroud. 34) Connect upper hose. 35) Reinstall radiator retainer. 36) Bolt retainer to Tubular bumper mounts. 37) Reinstall grill. 38) Wonder where the extra bolts etc are supposed to go. 39) Cuss - pray -cuss - pray. 40 ) sip some beer. 41) carefully inspect everything to ensure its back to the way it looked before (several pictures from a digital camera taken during the disassembly will help). 42) Close the rad petok. 43) Add 1 gallons of antifreeze. 44) Start engine and add another gallon of A/F. 45) Turn heater controls to HOT inside (no need for fan). 46) Water guage should show 180 to 210F. 47) Add 1 gallon of water. 48) Install New 18PSI rad cap. 49) Turn off engine and add water or A/F to overflow tank. 50) 1 hour later open Cap to see if level has settled. Add Water as needed to fill rad.

    Dec 24, 2008 | 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee

    1 Answer

    Timing belt slak

    1. Set timing belt tensioner.
    (a) Using a press, slowly press in the push rod using 100 - 1000 kg (220 - 2,205 lb, 981 - 9,807 N) of pressure. (b) Align the holes of the push rod and housing, pass a 1.27 mm hexagon wrench through the holes to keep the setting position of the push rod. (c) Release the press.
    1. Install timing belt tensioner.

    (a) Turn the No.1 idler pulley bolt counterclockwise to obtain the specified torque toward the left as far as the No.1 idler pulley will go, and temporarily install the tensioner with the two bolts Torque: 18 N.m (180, 13 ft.lbf)

    NOTICE: To apply the correct torque, apply the torque wrench along the axis through the bolts of the No.1 idler pulley and exhaust camshaft timing pulley.

    (b) Slowly turn the crankshaft pulley 5/6 revolution, and align its groove with the ATDC 60° mark of the No.1 timing belt cover.
    NOTICE: Always turn the crankshaft clockwise.

    (c) Insert a 1.90 mm (0.075 in.) feeler gauge between the tensioner body and No.1 idler pulley stopper.
    (d) Turn the No.1 idler pulley bolt counterclockwise to obtain the specified torque.
    Torque: 18 N.m (180, 13 ft.lbf)
    NOTICE: To apply the correct torque, apply the torque wrench along the axis through the bolts of the No.1 idler pulley and exhaust camshaft timing pulley.

    (e) While pushing the tensioner, alternately tighten the two bolts. Torque: 21 N.m (210, 15 ft.lbf)

    (f) Remove the 1.90 mm (0.075 in.) feeler gauge. (g) Remove the 1.27 mm hexagon wrench from the tensioner.

    (h) Slowly turn the crankshaft pulley one revolution, and align its groove with theATDC 60° mark of the No.1 timing belt cover.
    NOTICE: Always turn the crankshaft clockwise.

    (i) Using a feeler gauge, check the specified clearance between the tensioner body and No.1 idler pulley stopper. If the clearance is not as specified, remove the tensioner and reinstall it.
    Clearance: 1.80-2.20 mm (0.071 - 0.087 in.)
    1. Check valve timing.

    (a) Slowly turn the crankshaft pulley two revolutions from TDC to TDC. NOTICE: Always turn the crankshaft clockwise.

    (b) Check that each pulley aligns with the timing marks as shown in the illustration. If the marks do not align, remove the timing belt and reinstall it.

    Nov 12, 2008 | 1993 Toyota Celica

    2 Answers

    Serpentine belt

    Hey there hardrock,
    • Get a 14mm or 9/16" socket and a long handled ratchet or breaker bar.
    • Get the belt around all the pulleys except the A/C compressor or Alternator.
    • The tensioner pulley is near the Alternator toward the center of the engine. It's on a spring loaded arm. Get your socket on the center nut of this pulley.
    • Slowly pull the ratchet toward the center of the engine. The pulley will pivot on the arm allowing you to get the belt on the final pulley.
    • Slowly release the tension.
    • You're done

    Jul 15, 2008 | 1993 Honda Accord

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