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My truck was driving fine when I parked it, then a hour later went to start it and got no ignition power at all. the head lights work and dash lights come on. no turn signals or any ignition item work

Replaced the ignition control module, and fuses seem to be ok. checked battery and starter connections

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  • sherman north Nov 23, 2014

    Hi terry , I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box?

  • sherman north Nov 23, 2014

    Hi terry , I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box?
    You need to give yr., make, model and name of truck ( nissan,?Toyota, gmc, etc ), is it a automatic or standard shift. Tell everything you can about this truck.

  • terry
    terry Nov 23, 2014

    it's a 1950 chevy 3100 advance design with a 350 engine. auto. has a HI distributer and a MSD box. one thing I did do a few days ago was I sprayed p enter aging oil in my key switch in a attempt to stop it from sticking when I started it. now all of a sudden I get no ignition power at all.

  • sherman north Nov 23, 2014

    Does the engine turn over while turning ignition switch, you might need to get a service manual from parts distributor, I have a library card that allows me to go online to a Chilton repair manual web site to get information on hundreds od different vehicles, check with your lbrary to see if they do that and you might want to just go online

  • sherman north Nov 23, 2014

    to see if you can find a web site like that.

  • sherman north Nov 23, 2014

    I am not that familiar with older vehicles.

  • sherman north Nov 23, 2014

    It might be the ignition switch.

  • terry
    terry Nov 23, 2014

    ok thanks will check it out

  • sherman north Nov 23, 2014

    Terry, I just checked my Chilton online and it does give me any info for that yr of vehicle, does that vehicle hace a ballast resistor on the firewall, some older vehicles have a single ballast resistor & some have a dual ballast resistor, if vehicle does, could be problem.

  • sherman north Nov 23, 2014

    Terry, I just checked my Chilton online and it does give me any info for that yr of vehicle, does that vehicle hace a ballast resistor on the firewall, some older vehicles have a single ballast resistor & some have a dual ballast resistor, if vehicle does, could be problem.

  • sherman north Nov 23, 2014

    Terry, I just checked my Chilton online and it does give me any info for that yr of vehicle, does that vehicle hace a ballast resistor on the firewall, some older vehicles have a single ballast resistor & some have a dual ballast resistor, if vehicle does, could be problem.

  • sherman north Nov 23, 2014

    I made a typo, the Chilton online doesn't give any info on that yr, make & model, sorry

  • terry
    terry Nov 23, 2014

    thanks will check. it does have the HEI ignition on it w I think a MSD box so would it still have ballast resistors?

  • sherman north Nov 23, 2014

    I am notsure about that, there is another car web site called 2carpros.com

  • sherman north Nov 23, 2014

    that site might be able to help you a little, if you haven't gotten this figured out later, I will ask my friends for you, ok

  • terry
    terry Nov 23, 2014

    thanks I will check that site too

  • sherman north Nov 27, 2014

    here is some info on HEI ignition, might help, Delco® High Energy Ignition (HEI) System The General Motors HEI system is a pulse-triggered, transistorized controlled, inductive discharge ignition system. Except on early inline 6-cylinder models, the entire HEI system is contained within the distributor cap. Inline 6-cylinder engines through 1977 have an external coil. Otherwise, the systems are the same. The distributor, in addition to housing the mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms, contains the ignition coil (except on 1975-77 inline 6-cylinder engines), the electronic control module, and the magnetic triggering device. The magnetic pick-up assembly contains a permanent magnet, a pole piece with internal teeth, and a pick-up coil (not to be confused with the ignition coil). In the HEI system, as in other electronic ignition systems, the breaker points have been replaced with an electronic switch-a transistor-which is located within the control module. This switching transistor performs the same function the points did in a conventional ignition system. It simply turns coil primary current on and off at the correct time. Essentially then, electronic and conventional ignition systems operate on the same principle. The module which houses the switching transistor is controlled (turned on and off) by a magnetically generated impulse induced in the pick-up coil. When the teeth of the rotating timer align with the teeth of the pole piece, the induced voltage in the pick-up coil signals the electronic module to open the coil primary circuit. The primary current then decreases, and a high voltage is induced in the ignition coil secondary windings which is then directed through the rotor and high voltage leads (spark plug wires) to fire the spark plugs. In essence then, the pick-up coil module system simply replaces the conventional breaker points and condenser. The condenser found within the distributor is for radio suppression purposes only and had nothing to do with the ignition process. The module automatically controls the dwell period, increasing it with increasing engine speed. Since dwell is automatically controlled, it cannot be adjusted. The module itself is non-adjustable and non-repairable and must be replaced if found defective.

  • sherman north Nov 27, 2014

    Troubleshooting The HEI System The symptoms of a defective component within the HEI system are exactly the same as those you would encounter in a conventional system. Some of these symptoms are: Hard or no starting Rough idle Poor fuel economy Engine misses under load or while accelerating. If you suspect a problem in your ignition system, there are certain preliminary checks which you should carry out before you begin to check the electronic portions of the system. First, it is extremely important to make sure the vehicle battery is in a good state of charge. A defective or poorly charged battery will cause the various components of the ignition system to read incorrectly when they are being tested. Second, make sure all wiring connections are clean and tight, not only at the battery, but also at the distributor cap, ignition coil, and at the electronic control module. Since the only change between electronic and conventional ignition systems is in the distributor component area, it is imperative to check the secondary ignition circuit first. If the secondary circuit checks out properly, then the engine condition is probably not the fault of the ignition system. To check the secondary ignition system, perform a simple spark test. Remove one of the plug wires and insert some sort of extension in the plug socket. An old spark plug with the ground electrode removed makes a good extension. Hold the wire and extension about 1/4 in. (6mm) away from the block and crank the engine. If a normal spark occurs, then the problem is most likely not in the ignition system. Check for fuel system problems, or fouled spark plugs. If, however, there is no spark or a weak spark, then further ignition system testing will have to be done. Troubleshooting techniques fall into two categories, depending on the nature of the problem. The categories are (1) Engine cranks, but won't start or (2) Engine runs, but runs rough or cuts out.

  • sherman north Nov 27, 2014

    Engine Fails To Start If the engine won't start, perform a spark test as described earlier. If no spark occurs, check for the presence of normal battery voltage at the battery (BAT) terminal in the distributor cap. The ignition system must be in the ON position for this test. Either a voltmeter or a test light may be used for this test. Connect the test light wire to ground and the probe end to the BAT terminal at the distributor. If the light comes on, you have voltage on the distributor. If the light fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition primary wiring leading to the distributor. In this case, you will have to check wiring continuity back to the ignition switch using a test light. If there is battery voltage at the BAT terminal, but no spark at the plugs, then the problem lies within the distributor assembly. Go on to the distributor components test section.

  • sherman north Nov 27, 2014

    When connected as shown, ohmmeter 1 shows the primary coil resistance. Ohmmeter 2 shows the secondary coil resistance When connected as shown, ohmmeter 1 shows the primary coil resistance. Ohmmeter 2 shows the secondary coil resistance Click to Enlarge Exploded view of the pickup coil assembly and related components Exploded view of the pickup coil assembly and related components Click to Enlarge If the trouble has been narrowed down to the units within the distributor, the following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with both high and low ranges should be used. These tests are made with the cap assembly removed and the battery wire disconnected. Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be 1 ohm; (zero or nearly zero). To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Then connect the ohmmeter between the ground terminal and the rotor button. The resistance in both cases should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms. Replace the coil only if the readings in step one and two are infinite. These resistance checks will not disclose shorted coil windings. This condition can be detected only with scope analysis or a suitably designed coil tester. If these instruments are unavailable, replace the coil with a known good coil as a final coil test. To test the pick-up coil, first disconnect the white and green module leads. Set the ohmmeter on the high scale and connect it between a ground and either the white or green lead. Any resistance measurement less than infinity requires replacement of the pick-up coil. Pick-up coil continuity is tested by connecting the ohmmeter (on low range) between the white and green leads. Normal resistance is between 650 and 850 ohms, or 500 and 1,500 ohms; on 1977 and later models. Move the vacuum advance arm while performing this test. This will detect any break in coil continuity. Such a condition can cause intermittent misfiring. Replace the pick-up coil if the reading is outside the specified limits. If no defects have been found at this time, and you still have a problem, then the module will have to be checked. If you do not have access to a module tester, the only possible alternative is a substitution test. If the module fails the s

  • sherman north Nov 27, 2014

    If the module fails substitution test replace it.

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  • 16 Answers

Cant answer need to know what kind of truck it is

Posted on Nov 23, 2014

Testimonial: "Hit is a 1950 chevy 3100 with a 1982 350 engine automatic. Ignition is on the column"

  • rebekah brigode Nov 23, 2014

    check and see if it has a coil that might be the problem if that enagine has one

  • terry
    terry Nov 23, 2014

    put a new Excell coil on it has the HEI distributor with the coil in the cap. what's puzzling is I don't have any turn signals or gauge operation when I switch the key on but have head lights

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