Question about Cars & Trucks
Checked the oil level and is ok
I would stop using it immediately & hope you
have not ruined the motor
No unusual sound is good
Have it checked out
Oil level has No wires or ties to the computer
Your the only link to checking the oil
If it is not on the ground or all over the chassis
from a leak, you can almost forget it between changes
Posted on Nov 23, 2014
Testimonial: "The sound is coming from the computer when the oil icon comes on the dash. Thanks"
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
would be best to have oil pressure checked with a mechanical gauge to be sure you have oil pressure.
hopefully you just have a bad oil pressure switch this is located on oil filter adapter rt above filter
Posted on Aug 19, 2008
Had exactly the same problem, completely baffled us until we discovered that the it was the oil pressure switch. We had already replaced it with a new one and then that didnt fix it so we fitted a new oil pump, but as soon as it was revved over 3000 revs the oil light came on. It turns out that there is actually a choice of 2 oil pressure switches for this car (1999 1.4 polo) one works only low pressure (black cap) and is the wrong one, the other works on a higher racio (green cap) its the high pressure one you need. If the oil light was on at tick over or below 3000 revs then its the lower oil pressure switch needed, above 3000 its the higher one. The parts people insisted there was only one, but there is definately a choice of 2 and it fixed ours instantly.
If it was an older model they actually have 2 switches on the car itself and one is a high pressure and one is a low pressure (just incase anyone needed to know)
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
SOURCE: check engine light has come on
You need a code scanner hooked up to it to find out why the light is on.
If there is an advanced auto or an autozone near you, go there and tell them the engine light is on, and you need a code retrieved. They don't charge for this, where other places do. Tales about a minute.
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
Your oil sensor may be faulty, or your may have a leak since you said the fluid level is okay.
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
Testimonial: "Thankyou for the advise, been most helpfull...many thanks once again"
Increasing the weight of the oil by a shade will get rid of the problem, and adding a high-zinc motor oil will eliminate any possibility of sludge in the pan (with proper oil changes). However, as mentioned before, it is a band-aid fix. It will work indefinitely, if you are diligent with changing your oil every 3000 miles. Use 3.8 quarts of Rotella T 15w-40, add one quart of Lucas oil stabilizer, and use a WIX filter with an anti-drainback valve (which isn't really necessary since the filter hangs upside-down on a 2.7, but it's a good habit to use one on everything you drive). Do not use a Fram filter, Valvoline oil, or STP... or anything else. The three I mentioned above are the only ones to use, and DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL/ADDITIVES. I bought a 2004 Intrepid for the whopping sum of $250 that had the oil light/idle/low RPM issue because the owner was told by Sternberg Chrysler Center in Jasper, Indiana that the engine was going to grenade in short order. He wasn't going to pay them in excess of $2000 to replace the engine. I've put tons of miles on it since, and absolutely NO sign of the light, even now with the 2/1 Oxygen Sensor bad (which lowers the idle down to 600 instead of 750-800 where it should be). I'd trust the car cross-country. It's an expensive oil change at around $40 instead of $20 with cheap components, but what's saving your engine worth to you? A heck of a lot, I'd hope!
Posted on Apr 14, 2010
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