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My break went out on my chevy s10 xtreme 2.2L 4cl. there are no leaks and new break pads. I also changed the master cylinder and still no breaks? can you please tell me why?

I have changed the master cylinder

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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I assume that you have disc brakes. These require a piston/s to push against the pads to tighten them onto the discs. 2 reasons they may not be working are the calliper pistons are seized up in the callipers and 2 the brake booster is not providing the power assist to actuate the callipers. If you have vacuum booster I would repair/replace the booster or check for vacuum at the booster hose. If you have electric pump booster then check that the pump is getting power and is working.

Posted on Nov 23, 2014

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 603 Answers

When changing a master cylinder you have to fill and bleed before hooking up main lines to back. Then you have to bleed the whole system. You just have an air pocket in your system. GOOD LUCK FRIEND.

Posted on Nov 23, 2014

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

keemo68
  • 1263 Answers

SOURCE: 1974 super beetle

either the booster is bad or your proportioning valve is bad switch these out and repeat the bleeding proccess this should solve the problem

Posted on Sep 01, 2008

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: 96 suburban steering wheel pulls to left when breakes are applied

Sounds ridiculous maybe, but have you by any chance tried braking hard, at lower speed on a gravel road, just to see if you can pick up on which wheel is grabbing first. I recall a rear wheel cylinder partially seized with slight leak on rear of one of my vehicles, causing front end to whip over on braking. Only after hitting them hard at slower speed on gravel road, was I able to pick up on it.

Posted on Feb 19, 2009

  • 82 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 Chevy S10 Blazer 4x4. Replacing rear pad's,& Bleeding Breaks

have one person in the blazer pumping the brake pedal and then hold to the floor, crack the bleeder then tighten, release pedal, repeat till all air is out one side at a time, if this does not work then your ABS unit is bad witch if u follow your lines from your master cylinder u will find a black box with a motor on it, or the master cylinder itself is bad, it also can cause u to have no pedal, replace the master cylinder first, most likely cheaper.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

mx5turbo92
  • 545 Answers

SOURCE: changing front and rare break pads in hyundia excel

this front::

  1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel/tire assembly.
  2. Remove lower bolt and caliper assembly. Position assembly aside using suitable wire.
  3. Remove brake pads and shim.
  4. Bottom piston in caliper using suitable tool.
  5. Install new brake pads and attach shim to the outer pad. Tighten lower bolt to specifications.
this for rear::

1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel/tire assembly.
  1. Remove axle nut, then the hub and drum assembly.
  2. Remove end shoe springs, cylinder and hold-down spring.
  3. Remove shoes and adjuster as an assembly.
  1. Reverse removal procedure to install, noting the following:
    1. Apply suitable grease to backing plate shoe contact surfaces.
    2. Install shoe hold-down pin, then assemble return spring with the pushrod shortened.
    3. Pull parking brake lever fully upward. Repeat process several times.

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

  • 118 Answers

SOURCE: change rear break pads on 2000 Buick. Cannot

There's a special tool required to compress the rear caliper pistons. You may want to rent the tool. If you look at the piston you'll see one or two notches. The special tool has nipples to fit these notches. The caliper piston will have to be compressed with the tool and the notches will have to be placed in the o'clock and 6 o'clock for the brake pads to slide over the rotor. If you rent the special tool have the renter show you how to use it.

Posted on Sep 15, 2010

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2-also try to check all hoses pipes for break oil leak include under car pipes that connect master cylinder to the rear wheels

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You have air in your system, you need a helper to bleed the air out. The master cylinder is what ur brake fluid resivore is sitting on, the large round object behind it is the brake booster (looks like a squished basket ball) these will be on the fire wall driverside

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The liquids does not compress, so there is no reason for the brake pedal to go to the floor. If you have no brake pressure, after bleeding the system, then the master cylinder is wasted. The brake master cylinder leak might be Internal, or External. Check around the master cylinder for any external leak. The break fluid is an excellent paint eater, so clean any leak before you remove the Master Cylinder. The new Master Cylinder needs a bench bleeding process, before installed in your car.

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Did the peddel go to the floor when the breaks went out before you replaced pads and lines? If it did than its the master cyl. If you replace the master cyl. yourself just remember you have to bench bleed it before you install it. The new master cyl. will come with instructions on how to do that. The calipers will not do what you discribed unless they have a major leak. Also after you install the new master cyl. chanses are all the breaks will have to be blead, starting with right rear, left rear, right front, left front. In that order.

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1 Answer

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have one person in the blazer pumping the brake pedal and then hold to the floor, crack the bleeder then tighten, release pedal, repeat till all air is out one side at a time, if this does not work then your ABS unit is bad witch if u follow your lines from your master cylinder u will find a black box with a motor on it, or the master cylinder itself is bad, it also can cause u to have no pedal, replace the master cylinder first, most likely cheaper.

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