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2008 Chevy 4by4 has mushy brake pedal. Replaced master cylinder. Still mushy

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Not bleed correctly

Posted on Nov 23, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1998 chevy s10- brake pedal goes to the floor-

Did you put fresh fluid in the master cylinder? I really think you still have air in the lines. To bleed manually, start with the bleeder the greatest distance from the master cylinder, car running, helper pushing down about half way on brake pedal and releasing 3 times, on 3rd time, holding pedal down to half way depressed point while you open the bleeder valve. Repeat until you are sure all air has been flushed out. Check master cyl reservoir level often, because if it gets low and you **** air into the system, you have to start all over again. Go to wheel next greatest distance from master cyl, repeat above, working your way to wheel closest to master cyl last.

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

  • 3600 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 FORD F250 XLT 4WD - Had a hard brake pedal with hardly any brakes while standing on them. Replaced booster and wheel cylinders at same time now the pedal is mushy and no brakes.

They need to be bleed again all four wheels but your vacuum pump may be bad since diesels don't have vacuum then have to have a pump, check that the booster one way check valve is good if you can blow thew it both ways it's bad, to bleed start from the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder pump the brakes 5 times and hold down then open the bleed valve keep doing this until you get clear fluid out of each wheel once you have done that if it is still mushy and you know you have vacuum re bleed with engine running this will help push more out with power assist. most like the hard brake pedal had to do with no vacuum check out the pump. You may also have to reset the 2 way check valve if you need help with this let me know.

Posted on May 28, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: brake pedal goes soft when engin is running on 1998 chevy 1500

If your rubber brake lines are from the factory those hoses can stretch when the brakes are applied. This same thing happened to me. I replaced the master cylinder, with little to no change. So then I changed the brake booster. And if you read the fine print if either the brake booster or the master cylinder go bad it can take the other with it. So if the rubber brake lines don't fix this I would look at replacing both the master cylinder and the brake booster at the same time. But if you would like to trouble shoot this issue a bit more you can clamp off just the rear brakes or just the front brakes or even clamp off 3 of 4 or if it might be a issue before it even hits the brakes them self you can clamp off all 4 of the brakes to see were the problem is. This is to test fewer components at once and to see if the issue is with the cylinders / calipers or hoses. This will help you determine the location of the problem faster and with out throwing parts at your truck and hopping it fixes the issue.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

  • 64 Answers

SOURCE: Fiat Uno Pacer - Brake Booster not assist braking

it could be that the master cylinder is bad or the brake booster is bad also check the vacum hose going to the brake booster if it has a hole in it it will lose pressure and make the engine lose rpms

Posted on Aug 23, 2009

  • 53 Answers

SOURCE: 97 Chevy Silverado Brake Problem

start bleding again from left to rigt all the way around.

Posted on Oct 09, 2009

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2 Answers

I install reman booster new master cylinder and the pedal goes to the floor what can i do


You probably need to start over...1st by bench bleeding the master cylinder...(you can do this on your truck...review the bleeding instructions...after completing this you need to be sure the master cylinder is full of brake fluid...you will need a helper...but your next step will be to bleed each wheel brake caliper or cylinder. Start with the right rear, next left rear, then right front to drivers side front...(farthest away to start) you may have a brake fluid leak...if not, your pedal pressure should continually raise...Hope this helps.

Nov 16, 2011 | 1992 Ford F250

1 Answer

Brake pedal very soft and mushy. Brake warning light comes on and stays on. Is this a master cyclinder failure?


YEP MASTER CYLINDER FAULTY. ALSO LOOK FOR A LEAKING BRAKES LINES, LEAKING BRAKE CALIPERS OR WHEEL CYLINDERS IF YOU FIND DRY MASTER CYLINDER.

Dec 31, 2010 | Geo Prizm Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2006 Rav4 mushy brakes. THis car has had mushy brakes since we purchased it. Pedal sinks quite a way before brakes engage. Pedal pressure builds after several frequent uses. This is very un-nerving when...


it sounds like the master cylinder, but I would bleed the lines first, if that doesn't help then I would replace the cylinder. It is not that hard to replace just make sure you drain all the fluid first as it is very corrosive and bled the brakes once the new one it installed. it should not cost more the a couple hundred bucks. Good luck Tim

Sep 25, 2010 | 2006 Toyota RAV4

1 Answer

Power steering is weak and pump is whining, also the brakes are a little mushy. Is there a booster pump that affects both of these? Fluids seem fine.


If your power steering is whining you may just be low on power sterring fluid. I would check that first. If that is good your power steering pump may be on its way out.

There is a power brake booster in your system, but that should not affect if your brakes feel "mushy". I would look at the master cylinder, you probably need a new master cylinder they have a tendency to leak fluid past the seals as they age giving your pedal a mushy feeling. I woould also check your brake lines on each wheel to see if one might be leaking, this will give you a mushy feel as well. I doubt that is the case if you aren't loosing fluid however.

Apr 07, 2010 | 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser

1 Answer

Hello. i have a 1991 audi 100. brake padel has become mushy but there are no signs of brake fluid leak on the master cylinder or the lines. the brake pads are new. thanks


Just because there isn't an external leak in the brake system doesn't mean there isn't an internal leak in the master cylinder. A mushy pedal is usually an internal leak in the master cylinder or leaking wheel cylinders in the rear brake drums. Check the rear brake wheel cylinders for fluid leaks, if there are none or you do not have rear drum brakes, your best bet is the master cylinder :)

Sep 03, 2009 | Audi 80 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1997 FORD F250 XLT 4WD - Had a hard brake pedal with hardly any brakes while standing on them. Replaced booster and wheel cylinders at same time now the pedal is mushy and no brakes.


They need to be bleed again all four wheels but your vacuum pump may be bad since diesels don't have vacuum then have to have a pump, check that the booster one way check valve is good if you can blow thew it both ways it's bad, to bleed start from the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder pump the brakes 5 times and hold down then open the bleed valve keep doing this until you get clear fluid out of each wheel once you have done that if it is still mushy and you know you have vacuum re bleed with engine running this will help push more out with power assist. most like the hard brake pedal had to do with no vacuum check out the pump. You may also have to reset the 2 way check valve if you need help with this let me know.

May 27, 2009 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

2 Answers

1989 Ford F350 2 wheel drive dually 460 ci gas motor


5 Inspect Brake Fluid Type Brake fluid loss or contamination grey_line.gif 10 Inspect Master Cylinder (Brake System) Worn or leaking brake master cylinder. grey_line.gif 11 Inspect Brake Power Booster Damaged booster vacuum line/check valve, or diaphram

Nov 24, 2008 | 1989 Ford F 350

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