Question about Cars & Trucks
I have a 36ft winnebago Chieftain on a F53 chassis. I need to replace the fuel pump in the tank but the leveling jacks seem to go around the tank any idea how I remove them to get to the tank. If at all possible step by step for this replacement or a diagram thank you
I dropped the tank on a 34' Fleetwood with the same situation. The jacks were welded on so there was no removal option. What I did was (1) Cut eight 4x4 s into 12" sections. I bolted 4 sections together to make a "pad". One 8" 4X4 makes two pads. (2) Then I pumped the fuel into drums. Free drums are easy to find. A cheap 12V fuel pump and tubing is available from any auto supply. (3) I raised the camper on all 4 jacks. Than I retracted one jack, set a pad in place under it and extended the jack fully. Clockwise I put pads under all the jacks one at a time to make a layer. Then I put in another layer of jacks, round and around, and continued until the camper was up 4 layers. (4) The camper could "roll" forward off the jacks at this point because the wheels were off the ground. I attached a chain to the camper frame and took tension backwards using a come-along chained to a tree. (5) Then I got some pallets from the grocery store trash and put those under the tank. (6) I loosened the hangers for the tank and let it down on the pallets slowly. The hoses have to be removed before the tank drops very far. I worked the pallets out one layer at a time to lower the tank to the ground. (7) I could reach the pump mounting plate so I just removed the screws and lifted out the pump and gasket. (8) installation was the reversal.
If I had to do it again, I would take it to Camping World or a truck garage. They have lifts to raise the camper and jacks to raise and lower the tank.
Posted on Nov 25, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I apologize for not being able to provide a diagram, and it's been a while since I've replaced a fuel pump in a Jeep like yours, however the fuel pump for that vehicle is located within the fuel tank. You will typically disconnect power from the battery,relieve the pressure from the fuel rail to the injectors. In most cases the test port on the fuel rail has a schrader valve "valve core" like a tire valve, which utilizing a rag to absorb excess fuel you can depress to relieve pressure. You will then have to detach the fuel filler tube and vent tube at the filler neck. With a floor jack supporting the tank ,there should be a couple of bolts holding either two straps around the tank or a large cover that covers and supports the tank itself ,that will need removal. Once you have removed these and you should be able to access the top of the tank. Bear in mind you don't put the fuel pump/sending unit wiring harness or the fuel and vent tubing under too much strain as you lower the tank. you should have enough room to disconnect this wiring and fuel tubing. the tubing will probably have a quick disconnect setup where it attaches to the pump assembly. Once you have the tank on the ground take a suitable (non sparking drift and hammer) to tap the retaining ring that holds the pump in the tank, around the openig to release it. The pump assembly will be spring loaded and the top may pop up out of the tank. Just be sure to protect yourself from any fuel that might spray up. To reinstall can be a slight chore sometimes, as the assembly is spring loaded. It usually goes in with just a slight amount of effort though. Remember to replace the fuel sock on the pump and o-ring seal around the top of the opening. You can purchase just the electric pump, but I'd recommend replacing the whole fuel pump assembly. It will cost more in parts, but longer part warranty and lesser chance of further damaging the assembly are the benefits. Naturally installation is the reverse of removal. I'd recommend a new fuel filter as well, or shortly thereafter. Chrysler factory replacement units recommend draining all the old fuel from the tank and replacing with new fuel (never done that, and with the price of gas, probably won't start) I have never seen an adverse effect from not doing so. I hope this posting has helped.
Posted on Nov 13, 2008
SOURCE: in-the-tank fuel pump r&r
Here are instructions for replacment with a diagram of the fuel pump components my only suggestion would be instead of draining the tank and dropping the fuel tank if you unbolt the box and using a jack and and some wood lift the fuel tank side of the box this will give you access to the tank and fuel pump/ sending unit. It will save you time and the hastle of replacing the tank straps which are prone to snapping at the threads when trying to remove the nuts.If these brake you will have to replace them.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
Hope this helps!
WARNING Most cooling system hoses use "constant tension" hose clamps. When removing or installing, use a tool designed for servicing this type of clamp. The clamps are stamped with a letter or number on the tongue. If replacement is necessary, use only an OEM clamp with a matching ID.
Heater hose pipe O-ring (arrow): twist gently when removing or installing; check condition; lubricate with coolant before installing
CAUTION Always wear safety glasses when servicing contact tension clamps.
3.9L, 4.7L, 5.2L, 5.9L, 8.0L Gasoline Engines
WARNING Bolts may be of different lengths. Be sure to note their locations.
Water pump mounting hardware—4.7L
Use a prybar to keep the water pump from rotating while pulley bolts are removed
Bypass hose clamp (arrow) must be tended to before removing the pump
Water pump bolts differ in length; note check location before installation—3.9L, 5.2L, and 5.9L gasoline engine shown
After removing the bolts, pull off the pump and place it in a safe location
Posted on Apr 18, 2010
I HA NO DIAGRAM BUT IS VERY EASY I THINK YOU WILL HAVE NO TROUBLE DOING IT THE TANK IS HOLDTO THE FRAME BY TWO STRAPS EACH ONE HAVE A BOLT AT THE END YOU WILL NEED A 15 mm DEEP SOCKET, SECURE TANK PRIOR TO REMOVE STRAPS SO IT WOUN'T FALL,LOWER TANK SO YOU CAN DISCONNECT ELECTRIC CONNECTOR AND FUEL LINES YOU WILL NEED A DISCONNECTING TOOL FOR FUEL LINES THIS IS A VERY INEXPENSIVE TOOL JUST PUSH IT IN THE GAP OF LINE CONNECTION AND PULL LINE OUT THE PUMP IS LOCK IN THE TANK BY A LOCK RING YOU WILL NEED TO PUT PRESSURE OR TAP WITH SREW DRIVER OR CHISEL MAY BE A HAMMER AFTER YOU REMOVE THIS RING THE PUMP IS FREE JUST SLIDE OUT. TO INSTALL JUST REVERSE PROCEDURES YOU WILL NOT NEED THE DISCONNECTING TOOL AT THIS TIME. HOPEFULLY THIS HELPS IF SO PLEASE CHECK IT IN CORNER OF THIS BOX IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE I'LL BE HAPPY TO HELP THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME
Posted on Mar 05, 2011
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