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Unbolt right fear brake line at rightrear hose. there is a bracket and each is attached to either side of that bracket, but the nuts don't look like standard sae or metric. can't get ahold of

Unbolt right fear brake line at rightrear hose. there is a bracket and each is attached to either side of that bracket, but the nuts don't look like standard sae or metric. can't get ahold of the fasteners!

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 3,230 Answers

Can you give us the year--make--model?

Posted on Nov 21, 2014

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

wireguy212
  • 1627 Answers

SOURCE: ARE THE NUTS AND BOLTS ON MY 96 PLYMOUTH VOYAGER

Most of the vehicle hardware is metric but brake lines could be either.If a 3/8 is too small and a 7/16 is too big then you need a 10mm.

Posted on Oct 26, 2009

  • 239 Answers

SOURCE: my neighbor has a 1996 Dodge 1500 4x4 pickup and

On a lot of models the nut is welded to the arm and does not need to be held. Try turning it and watch the nut. If the bolt comes out it sould go back in the same way. Be careful not to over tighten - if the threads are stripped the nut will have to be replaced.

Posted on Jan 16, 2010

SOURCE: can't get the nut on the l bracket off to remove

Almost all vehicles from 1980 on are 90% Metric

You need a lot of tools to work on todays vehicles

Posted on Dec 20, 2010

teds_repairs
  • 2101 Answers

SOURCE: Are the brake lines on a 1996 plymouth grand voyager metric or standard?

all brake lines are 3/16

Posted on Dec 05, 2012

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Replace brake hose nissan patrol


The bearings in your car are pressed into a hub. If the part is available as an assembly, it can be replaced that way. Generally on a front drive car:
Remove wheels and brake calipers
If it is pressed in: remove the rotors, disconnect the drive shafts and remove the steering knuckle. Then the old bearing is pressed out and the new one pressed in with a machine shop press. If the bearing is part of the hub, that will be unbolted and the new one swapped.

Sep 11, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hi. i am trying to find blueprint for change the radiator heating on Audi A4 1995 Thank you.


How to install a heating core in a 1996 Audi A4
You'll know it's time to change your heater core when your heat starts smelling like coolant, and the interior windows fog up and even the AC won't prevent it. The good news is, there are only 2 screws that hold the heater core into the HVAC box!! The bad news is, it's going to take you about 4 hours to get to those 2 screws. This writeup is how I did this job, it's not intended to be an exact step by step how to. This job is not for the faint of heart, or small of toolbox.
  • The first step is to take your car to a shop, to have them purge the AC refrigerant. This is REQUIRED, as you have to open the lines into the AC condensor to make this change.
  • Next, move your car to where you are going to be working on it. You will need access to all 4 doors, with plenty of room on either side of the car for parts storage. Try to have the front wheels point streight ahead.
  • Slide the power seats all the way back, and down.
  • Disconnect the battery.
  • Loosen the spring clamps on the heater core hoses, and slide the hoses off of the heater core lines (DO NOT do this with the coolant hot. Let the car sit and cool off fully before starting):
  • tdisline_649.jpg

    Remove the cover for the pollen filter, and loosen the allen bolt that secures the AC refrigerant lines. Even though you had the refrigerant purged, it may still hiss a little. (at least mine did).

    tdisline_644.jpg

    Empty the glove box, center armrest bin, back seat area, etc.

    Remove the driver's side knee guard. There are 2 8mm bolts in the fuse panel area, one behind each of the snap in covers, and one down below.
    tdisline_648.jpg

  • Remove the glove box. With the glove box open, squeeze the sides inward, so they clear the stops. Let it drop down to the floor. Remove the 4 bolts that hold it in. 2 are easy, and obvious, they are on the outside edge, you'll see them when you get the cover off the end of the dash.. The 3rd and 4th one are not.
  • The 3rd bolt is near the plunger switch for the glovebox light.
    tdisline_650.jpg
  • #4 is entirely harder to find.. If you could stick your head into the glovebox cavity, you'd be able to see it. In this picture, the bolt head still has the electrical tape on it that I used to keep the bolt firmly stuck into my 8mm socket.
    tdisline_651.jpg Now, on to the center console. On the B5, to remove the center console, you start in the back seats.
  • Pull the ash tray out. There are 2 13mm nuts, remove those. You do NOT need to remove the one 13mm lock nut, that one holds the hand brake frame.
  • Under the armrest, there is that little port for the build in phone, pop that out, and look under it. There is another 13mm nut to remove.
  • Pop the trim covers off using a very small, clean screwdriver. Remove the 8mm bolts from each side.
  • Under the hand brake handle is a very small locking tab. You'll need your smal screwdriver again.. just carefully pry it down. What this does is lock the handle to the trim and the lever. Pull the handle and trim off of the lever.
    tdisline_652.jpg
  • With the handle up as far as you can get it, you should be able to slide the rear part of the center console out over the hand brake handle. Next, remove your shifter knob. Remove Radio head unit. Make sure you have your code handy. Unbolt the center stack trim plate. Unbolt the center stack trim from the carrier unit, which houses the HVAC head, the dash switches etc. On the driver's side of the center stack, down by the driver's foot, there is a cover for a nut, remove the nut. You might have removed it earlier, when you dropped the knee bolster.
    On to the dash: Remove the 2 8mm bolts on each end. On the passenger side, remove the airbag module and the 3 brackets you will see under the airbag. One bracket is the one the aribag module attaches to, the other 2 are the L brackets, they hold the air bag to the dash frame. Remove the 8mm bolts on either side of the center stack, they attach the bracket to the frame behind the center stack. Under the center vent area, that same bracket is attached to the dash cover by 3 8mm bolts. On the driver's side, remove the steering wheel, steering column trim. Remove the upper cover for the instrument cluster screws. remove the lower trim for the column pass through. The top screws are accessed from the front, stick your torx driver through the hole along side the column. Remove the instrument cluster. Under the steering column, there are 4 allen head bolts, which hold the column up to the aluminum dash support. Careful here, the column will be free to fall on your head at this point. You can carefully set the steering column on the floor, after you have removed the vacuum line for the cruise control from the brake pedal. While you are at the brake pedal, remove the allen bolt that holds the top of the hinge to the dash support. (I've not done this on a 5 speed car, but I suspect that the clutch will have a similar setup). The pedals will stay where they are, but you need to free the top of the assys. from the dash frame. Time to move the center stack stuff. You've unbolted the center stack and removed the trim already. Now, you need to take the electronics, and pull them out, and move the whole deal off to the side. If you look in at the HVAC box, under the area where the center dash vents are, you'll see a duct running from the HVAC up to the dash. There is a single 8mm nut holding this duct to the HVAC box, and a small harness connector. On top of the dash, there is the sunlight sensor. The trim pice comes right off of it, it's a small piece. There is a phillips screw that holds this sensor to the center vent. Remove the screw, lift the sensor up, and unplug the harness connector. (Once you get the dash off, tape a long zip tie to the connector, it will help you fish it through when you put the dash back together.)
    Give it a try... Try to pull the dash cover forward and up. The only thing that holds the windshield side of the dash down are 2 clips. The dash SHOULD come right out now, and you should now be seeing the aluminum frame, the HVAC box, and a ridiculous amount of wiring.
    tdisline_653.jpg Legend:
    2. The airbag bracketes. The airbag sits on these, the dash will not come out with the bag bolted to these.
    3. This is where the dash skin bolts to the frame. Not pictured is the center piece, at spot 3a.
    4. The airbag module for the seats. Unbolt it from it's perch.
    5. Remove these brackets. They hold the HVAC box in place in the center of the car. It's held in place on the far right side by the aluminum bracket. It's difficult to see in the below image, but behind the far impact absorber (in the red circle), there is a 3 angle bracket, which is held on by that impact absorber, and also bolts to the aluminum cross member, and the HVAC box.. Remove this bracket.
    tdisline_654.jpg

    Since you are already on the passenger side, remove the 16mm nut which holds the dash support to the frame of the car. Back on the driver's side, remove the nuts that hold the realy panel etc. to the aluminum. frame. also, there are 2 phillips screws that hold the rest of the electrical bits to the long thin aluminum. arms, way under, by the firewall. On my car, they were broken somehow. it's a good idea to check first, before you yank the aluminum dash support out. Also, remove the 2 bolts, and pop the fuse panel out of the dash support.
    tdisline_655.jpg

    Jun 13, 2011 | 1996 Audi A4

    1 Answer

    I need to remove the entire passenger side rear suspension. Does it go through the trunk or the back seat? If so how do you remove the back seat?


    REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1983-86 Models
    1. On 4-door sedan, remove the package tray and vent duct.
    2. On hatchback, remove the speaker grilles.
    3. Disconnect the brake line from the wheel cylinder. CAUTION
      Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical assistance.
    4. Remove the brake line from the brake hose.
    5. Disconnect the brake hose from its bracket on the shock absorber.
    6. Loosen, but do not remove, the nut holding the suspension support to the shock absorber.
    7. Unbolt the shock absorber from the rear arm.
    8. Unbolt and extract the shock absorber from the body. To install:
    9. Attach the shock absorber to the body and tighten the 3 nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
    10. Engage the shock absorber bracket with the carrier and install the hardware. Tighten the nuts to 119 ft. lbs. (162 Nm).
    11. Tighten the center suspension support nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). There is a bearing located under the suspension support dust cover. Remove the dust cover and pack the bearing with multi-purpose grease. Once packed, reinstall the dust cover.
    12. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten each component to specifications.
    13. Have the rear wheel alignment checked.
    1987-88 Models
    1. On wagon models, remove the toneau cover holder.
    2. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it safely. Block the front wheels.
    3. Remove the rear wheels.
    4. Using the proper size flare nut wrench, disconnect the backing plate hardware.
    5. With a flare nut and a back-up wrench, disconnect the brake tube from the brake hose and use a small plastic container to collect the brake fluid.
    6. Undo the clip and disconnect the brake hose from the shock absorber. NOTE: Before the axle bolts are removed, the axle carrier must be supported with a jack.
    7. Support the axle carrier with a floor jack and remove the mounting bolts and nut. Disconnect the axle carrier from the shock absorber.
    8. Support the shock absorber firmly by hand and remove the three mounting nuts. Remove the shock absorber from the body. To install:
    9. Position the shock absorber onto the body and support it firmly by hand. Install the three nuts and tighten them to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm).
    10. Attach the axle carrier to the shock absorber with the nuts and bolts. Tighten the nuts to 166 ft. lbs. (226 Nm).
    11. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten each component to specifications.
    12. Bleed the brake lines as described in Section 9.
    13. Have the rear wheel alignment checked.
    1989-96 Models
    1. On the 4-door sedan, remove the package tray and vent duct. On 1992-96 models, it will be necessary to remove the rear seat back.
    2. On the hatchback, remove the speaker grilles.
    3. On the wagon models remove the tonnue cover and rear seat back.
    4. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it safely. Block the front wheels.
    5. Remove the rear wheels.
    6. Disconnect the brake hose and the ABS speed sensor from the shock absorber.
    7. If equipped with ABS, disconnect the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) spring from the lower arm.
    8. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the shock absorber.
    9. Support the rear axle and loosen the 2 bolts from the lower end of the shock absorber.
    10. From inside the vehicle, unbolt the upper support. Fig. 1: A rubber cap covers the rear shock absorber tower nut 89558p01.jpg
      Fig. 2: The upper shock absorber tower is retained by the center nut (circled) and three surrounding nuts 89558p02.jpg

    11. Lower the rear axle carrier and remove the two bolts.
    12. Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle. To install:
    13. Install the shock absorber assembly onto the vehicle.
    14. Connect the brake hose and the ABS speed sensor to the shock absorber.
    15. Connect the stabilizer bar link to the shock absorber.
    16. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
    17. During installation, please observe the following tighten specifications:
      1. Tighten the shock absorber-to-body bolts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
      2. Tighten the shock absorber-to-axle carrier nuts to 166 ft. lbs. (226 Nm) on 1988-91 vehicles and 188 ft. lbs. (255 Nm) on 1992-96 vehicles.
      3. Tighten the suspension support-to-shock absorber nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm) on 1988-91 vehicles. On 1992-96 models, tighten the stabilizer bar link to shock absorber retainers to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm).
    18. Install the rear seat back, vent duct and the package tray as required.
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    Dec 18, 2010 | 1986 Toyota Camry

    1 Answer

    2000 gmc z71 passenger side cv joint is making noise when i turn......i talk to napa and can get rebuilt for 60$.....but to take it apart....do i need ball joint separator.....what tools..????


    Never use a tool myself other than a big hammer. Those forks don't work for me, though we have them. Hit the joint on the side and it will pop out. If not, you can always put the nut back on even with the ball stud and hit it from the bottom. The book also calls for a special tool to get the axle out of the hub. Have never used this either. If it doesn't slide out, I just hit it--I have a new one anyway (take it loose from the tranny before hitting it). Tools you will need are the big socket for the axle nut (around 22mm or so) and regular metric socket set, preferably 1/2 in drive. Also take the speed sensor and brake lines off the support bracket to free up the hub a little more. Note that you may need to also separate the tie rod end if you cannot otherwise swing the hub out far enough to get the shaft out. The book says to take off the stabilizer and shock and also separate the upper ball joint. I don't know if that's necessary or not, as I have not done one on this particular truck. You are doing the whole shaft, right? We don't do individual CVs anymore, as the labor is ridiculous compared to the cost difference to a whole half shaft. Take the axle nut off, unbolt the shaft from the tranny, and swing the hub out. Pull the axle out of the hub first, then the tranny. Reverse procedure to install. I will paste the book solution from autozone.com below. Lemme know if you have more questions.

    1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
    2. Remove or disconnect the following:

      Front wheel and tire assembly Skid plate, as required. If equipped Drive axle hub nut and washer Brake line and wheel speed sensor support bracket from the upper control arm to allow extra travel of the control arm. Left outer tie rod attaching nut and cotter pin. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
    3. Position the tie rod aside and push steering linkage to the opposite side of the vehicle.

      Lower shock attaching nut and bolt; position the shock aside Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
    4. Taking pressure off the upper control arm by placing a support below the lower control arm between the spring seat and the ball joint.
      NOTE Cover the shock mounting bracket and lower ball joint stud with a towel to prevent the axle boot from tearing during removal and installation.


      Upper ball joint cotter pin and loosen (do not remove) the upper ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Remove the attaching nut.
    5. Separate the axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or equivalent.

      Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
    To install:
    1. Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel bearing grease.
    2. Install or connect the following:

      Axle shaft in the hub Inboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm). Upper ball joint to steering knuckle. Torque the stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball joint as required. Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm Lower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and bolt Left tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nut Brake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not twisted or kinked Skid plate, as required Axle hub washer and nut. Insert a drift through the rotor vanes to keep the axle from turning. Toque the hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) Wheel and tire assembly

    Oct 26, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

    1 Answer

    How to get to starter on 2003 traikblazer


    Removal & Installation 4.2L Engine To Remove:
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
    2. Disconnect the brake booster hoses from the engine. Starter gm-02-42-1398.gif

    3. Remove the positive battery cable and s-terminal lead from the starter.
    4. Remove the starter from the engine.
    To Install:
    1. Install the starter to the engine. Tighten the nut and bolt to 37 ft-lb (50 Nm).
    2. Install the positive battery cable and s-terminal to the starter. Tighten the battery cable nut to 80 in-lb (9 Nm). Tighten the s-terminal nut to 20 in-lb (2.3 Nm).
    3. Connect the vacuum brake booster hose to the engine.
    4. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery.
    5.3L & 6.0L Engines To Remove:
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
    2. Raise and support the vehicle.
    3. Remove the rear steering gear crossmember from the frame. Starter gm-02-53-1399.gif

    4. Detach the wire harness from the transmission oil cooler line bracket.
    5. Detach the transmission oil cooler line bracket from the engine.
    6. Remove the right transmission cover bolt from the transmission cover.
    7. Detach the starter from the engine.
    8. Slide the starter forward and remove the transmission cover.
    9. Remove the heat shield from the starter.
    10. Position the starter so that it can pass between the engine oil pan and transmission oil cooler lines.
    11. Detach the starter lead and battery positive cable from the starter.
    12. Remove the starter from the vehicle.
    To Install:
    1. Place the starter between the engine oil pan and transmission oil cooler lines.
    2. Attach the battery positive cable to the starter and starter lead. Torque the battery positive cable nut to 80 in-lb (9 Nm). Torque the starter lead nut to 30 in-lb (3.4 Nm).
    3. Install the heat shield to the starter.
    4. Attach the starter from the engine. Torque the bolts to 37 ft-lb (50 Nm).
    5. Install the right transmission cover bolt into the transmission cover. Torque the bolt to 80 in-lb (9 Nm).
    6. Attach the transmission oil cooler line bracket to the engine. Torque the bolt to 80 in-lb (9 Nm).
    7. Attach the wire harness to the transmission oil cooler line bracket.
    8. Install the rear steering gear crossmember onto the frame.
    9. Lower the vehicle.
    10. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery.
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    Aug 19, 2010 | 2003 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

    1 Answer

    How do you change the brakes on a 1988 dodge shadow


    Brake Hose
    FRONT BRAKE HOSE
    1. Raise the end of the vehicle which contains the hose to be repaired, then support the vehicle safely using jackstands. Make sure to block the wheels still on the ground to prevent the vehicle from rolling.
    2. If necessary, remove the wheel for easier access to the hose.
    3. Place a drain pan under the hose connections. First, disconnect the hose where it connects to the body bracket and steel tube.
    4. Unbolt the hose bracket from the strut assembly.
    5. Remove the bolt to disengage the banjo connection at the caliper.
    To install:
    1. Position the new hose, noting that the body bracket and the body end of the hose are keyed to prevent installation of the hose in the wrong direction. First, attach the hose to the banjo connector on the caliper.
    2. Bolt the hose bracket, located in the center of the hose, to the strut, allowing the bracket to position the hose so it will not be twisted.
    3. Attach the hose to the body bracket and steel brake tube.
    4. Tighten the banjo fitting on the caliper to 19-29 ft. lbs. (26-39 Nm), the front hose-to-intermediate bracket to 75-115 inch lbs. (8-13 Nm), and the hose to brake tube to 115-170 inch lbs. (13-19 Nm).
    5. Bleed the system thoroughly, referring to the procedure presented later in this section.
    6. Install the wheel, if necessary.
    7. Lower the vehicle and remove the wheel block(s).

    REAR BRAKE HOSE (TRAILING ARM-TO-FLOOR PAN)
    1. Raise the end of the vehicle which contains the hose to be repaired, then support the vehicle safely using jackstands. Make sure to block the wheels still on the ground to prevent the vehicle from rolling.
    2. If necessary, remove the wheel for easier access to the hose.
    3. Place a drain pan under the hose connections. Disconnect the double nut (using a primary wrench and a back-up wrench) at the tube mounted on the floor pan.
    4. Disconnect the hose at the retaining clip.
    5. Disconnect the hose at the trailing arm tube.
    To install:
    1. Install the new tube to the trailing arm connection first.
    2. Tighten the connection to 115-170 inch lbs. (13-19 Nm).
    3. Making sure the hose is not twisted, connect it to the tube on the floor pan.
    4. Again, tighten the connection to 115-170 inch lbs. (13-19 Nm).
    5. Bleed the system thoroughly, referring to the procedure later in this section.
    6. Install the wheel, if necessary.
    7. Lower the vehicle and remove the wheel block(s).

    Hope helps (remember rated this).

    Jul 08, 2010 | 1988 Dodge Shadow

    1 Answer

    How do you install a r front wheel bearing on a 2003 olds alero


    Safely support the vehicle and remove the wheel. Unbolt the brake caliper and pad bracket. Leave the brake line connected and hang it off to the side (don't hang it from the brake hose). Remove the brake rotor and the axle nut (should be a 36mm. If your not using an impact gun, this should be removed with the wheel on if possible to stop it from spinning). Disconnect the wheel speed sensor and remove the three bolts securing the wheel bearing. The bearing could then be removed. It may require some persuasion with a hammer. Installation is reverse of removal.

    May 09, 2010 | 2003 Oldsmobile Alero

    1 Answer

    TL Magna replace strut top bushes how to drop


    try not to kill yourself.
    You need a spring compressor for this job.
    Three nuts on top , two at nuckle , disconnect any brake hoses or wires attached to strut if present ,
    If brake hose goes through the bracket on the strut , and there is no options but disconnect brake line , I usually cut bracket carefully the way I can split bracket and take hose out without disconnecting the brake line.But make sure that it cut really nice so you can put it back together with locking spring.
    After that , take strut assy. out and COMPRESS THE SPRING (spring compressor) ,after-take center nut on top of the strut out and you done. Memorize the way (mark it) spring was sitting , and sequence
    for the parts and put it back together .
    Installation - opposit of removal.

    May 05, 2010 | 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer

    1 Answer

    How do you get a power booster off a 1999 town and country van?


    Your power brake booster is bolted to the rear engine compartment, or firewall, from the inside , so you need to disconnect the rod from the brake pedal, and locate and remove the bolts that hold it. You also have to unbolt your brake master cylinder too.

    Nov 16, 2009 | 1999 Chrysler Town & Country

    1 Answer

    How do you change a power booster assembly on a 2002 ford taurus


    1st go inside the car and remove the rod from the brake pedal that actuates the booster, then look around where that rod goes through the firewall wall, there are 4 studs with nuts on them with, the rod is centered between these studs, sound deadener material may have to be removed to get at the nuts, once that is done, go out under the hood and unbolt the the brake master cylinder from the booster, there are 2 nuts on studs, move the master off to the outside by GENTLY bending the brake lines attached to it, unplug the large 3/8" vacuum hose from the booster and remove the booster, they can be hard to remove, and some other parts like wire harnesses and brackets may have to be pulled out of the way.

    Nov 26, 2008 | Ford Taurus Cars & Trucks

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