Memorex speaker keeps cutting out. I believe the little black wire hookup is cracked where it is connected to the unit inside housing of speaker. The pic of type of speaker is at the top of the page where the questions for Memorex speakers is located. I am trying to take the housing apart but no luck

Assuming the "mysterious" top line refers to some sort of RV, campervan or caravanette..?

Ideally you should check the exact function in the manual or the wiring diagram but taking a guess - I would expect there is a battery charging facility and when connected to the mains the "house" battery would charge if the switch is in the right position or maybe in either position...

Trouble is, it is ambiguous labelling for what might be a battery isolator switch that disconnects it or might be a change over switch to disconnect from one circuit and connect it to a different circuit but on balance I expect it is a battery isolator...

It is usual practice with such vehicles and trailer caravans, for the house battery to supply basic functions so if mains hookup isn't available or if there is a power outage, life can continue albeit at a slower pace - usually the waterpump and two lights inside and the step light provides safety illumination at the entrance, over the stove and a single reading lamp over the table area and enough water to make tea or coffee.
It would therefore make no sense to disconnect the house battery except when no one is inside. When connected to mains electricity a charger unit usually would keep the battery charged...

Try turning the switch off and see what stops working when there is no mains power...

I believe yours is in the central timing unit. Big black box on the fuse panel. Pull it, open it up, and unsolder the speaker.

Cut the wires behind the connector and wire it your self, sodder and use heat shrink so it stays connected.

If you bought a wiring adapter kit for the aftermarket stereo, the unit should hook up directly to the stock bose system. Note: If there is sound coming from the speakers after installation, the amp IS hooked up...the speaker wiring is routed to the factory amplifier, not the stereo itself, the stereo wiring is just signal leads to the amplifier. In some instances, you may have to connect the amp remote wire to the remote wire coming from the aftermarket stereo(blue wire). I hope this helps. Any other questions, just reply.

Either it's a wiring problem or you need a new system. The inputs for separate outputs are completely different parts of the system inside the radio. Those are probably bad, check the wiring, just pull the radio out and check all the wires to see if they're rusted or jiggle em a little bit. The earphone error points to a new system though.

Hope it helps.

There may be extra wires you don't need. The basic set of wires on the radio is 4 pairs of colored wires--one black-striped and one plain for each speaker. Yellow is usually accessory power, red is hot, and black is ground. Some additional wires may be one for a power antenna, one for an external amplifyer, and one for facelight (in case it will run on dimmer)
The car should have the following corresponding wires:
Radio 12v--- orange
Radio Ground--- black
Radio Ignition--- yellow
Radio Illumination--- brown
Dimmer--- gray
Power Antenna--- pink (if you have one)
LF Speaker +/- tan - grey
RF Speaker +/- lt green - dk green
LR Speaker +/- brown - yellow
RR Speaker +/- dk. blue- lt. blue

The car or radio could have additional connectors, such as for a subwoofer, CD changer, etc.

Hope it is the speaker or speaker wires. Wires often short or break where they go to the doors, if there are speakers in the doors. If there are several speakers, try changing the balance in order to isolate them.
But if a speaker wire is shorting, it could cause all speakers to still cut out. Remember speakers also require good ground as well.

If they keep blowing there is a issue somewhere check for frayed wires or pinched wires.

Hello, I have a 2000 ES300 and while the body style is different believe the newer model still has the rear deck mounted sub-woofer that you are referring to. The process of removing this speaker would start off the same as if you were going to replace the third brake light also located in this housing. Using a flathead screwdriver work your way around prying/popping up all four corners of the speaker grill covering the speaker that have the retainer clips. Once you disengage the clips work/maneuver the grill up and towards you gently and it should slide out. The bulb for the third brae light will be attached to this speaker grill, disconnect the snap wire from the bulb and you should have a clear visual of the speaker and the four bolthead screws securing it. Remove these screws and your almost home free. The next part might be slightly more difficult. If the speaker s simply connected by a clipped on wiring harness, just detach.On my 2000 ES300 i have the pioneer system(Not Nakimichi) and the 2 wires (one black, and one red) are soldered directly to the speaker. You can take a soldering iron(maybe a battery or gas powered one unless you have an inverter) and remelt the solder to remove the wires or you can elect to simply cut the wires. If you choose to cut them make sure you cut them as close as possible to the soldered joints so you have plenty of wire left to install the replacement speaker.Then install replacement either soldering or using crimp clamps and reassemble. ( Note if you simply want to add a aftermarket amplified sub-woofer you don't need to remove the sub-woofer out of the housing. You can tap into the wire leads and run it directly to the amplifier. Just cut one of the wires leading to the stock sub-woofer so it doesn't also come on and potentially blow while the radio is on. This will also prevent any bass humming when the radio is shut off but the aftermarket amplifier is still on because once one of the wires to the stock sub-woofer is disconnected or cut it breaks the circuit. Hope this helps.

if they are up on the rear deck... (where the back window is) you can easily gain access to them from inside the trunk... you have to lay inside the trunk and look up under the rear part of the trunk... sometimes you have to remove a small enclosure.... but they are very easy to change.... if you have to cut the connector and wire the speakers directly... pay attention to the positive and negitive side of the wires and speakers.

Robert

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