Question about 1993 Honda Prelude

1 Answer

On my 93 Honda prelude vtec h22a1 block I'm having issues removing the bridge/cam bearing cap off the block all of the bolts were loosened in order at about 1/3 rotation at a time. All of the Pistons and connecting rods have been removed as well as the balancer shafts I just need to get the bridge assembly of to properly clean the block and have it honed are there any tips as to how to get it off without damaging it?

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  • Honda Master
  • 3,679 Answers

If there are no visable nuts etc i'd say it needs a gentle tap with a rawhide hammer , cover with come cloth and tap away gently , may have got stuck in position due to heat etc

Posted on Nov 22, 2014

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2000 camry. blown head gasket (daughter drove car

Yes, you can, but not exactly recommended. If you are going to go that deep into it, then might as well do everything else. However, being unemployed tends to have a negative impact on the wallet....

I suspect it is more than just rings. I think that the walls have been scored badly as well. You may be able to use a borescope to take a peak into the cylinder through spark plug hole. Move the piston to bottom of stroke, and see what you can see. If scarred, much work will be needed. If hatches look alright, then you might be able to get away with just rings.

What kind of compression are you getting on #1 vs #2? This also might be a blown headgasket into an oil passage, or the head (perhaps block?) is ever so slightly warped in this area.

Posted on Aug 29, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks for the quick response. Very much appreciated your input, all makes sense and got my mind on the right track again. Thanks"

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: removal front wheel bearing 2003 mazda protege

hi there, i have 2 mazda6s, both off which i needed to removed the inner axels on, so far you have done every thing right :), but unfortunatly due to mazdas sloppy assembly the inner axles are near impossible to remove, you could try getting a 2 or 3 legged puller and remove the brake calliper and disk then try and "pull" the shaft out, but unfortunatly i doubt will work. your second option would be to use a hydraulic ram to press it out, but again due to mazdas sloppy work it is near impossible with out damaging the hub, ive tryed both option and none of wich worked, so i brought 4 second hand hubs and outer C.Vs, hope this helps.

Posted on Sep 03, 2009

  • 166 Answers

SOURCE: I am trying to set the timing mark on a 1996 honda

get a book i dont thing you have a clue whats going on here . you set the crank shaft and the came shaft marks on a 2.2 thats it . if you go to mitchell repair manuals you can buy a manual for $9.99 . may save you a big head ach

Posted on Oct 28, 2009

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I have a 93 honda prelude vtec 2.2l drove and parked, will not start, just cranks over. replaced coil, starter, main relay switch, ignitor, plugs, getting fuel but will not start


Do you have fuel pressure? Is 12 volts available to the injectors with the key turned to run (use a 12 volt test light to check this). Have you checked the combination relay located behind the glove box on most Honda models??

Jan 10, 2014 | 1993 Honda Prelude

1 Answer

I NEED replace head gaske


Hi there:Removal and InstallationExcept Accord V-6


The cylinder head temperature must be below 100 degrees F (38 degrees C); allow the engine to cool several hours if the car has been recently driven. Turn the crankshaft pulley so that the number one piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.

  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove the air cleaner and intake duct assembly.
  4. Label and remove the brake booster, PCV and charcoal canister vacuum hoses from the intake manifold.
  5. Remove the engine ground cable from the cylinder head or valve cover.
  6. Relieve the fuel pressure using the proper procedure. Disconnect the fuel lines.
  7. Disconnect the accelerator cable at the throttle body or carburetor. On automatic transaxle vehicles, also disconnect the throttle control cable.
  8. Disconnect and tag all the wire harnesses and vacuum hoses from the cylinder head, intake manifold and throttle body/carburetor. Disconnect the spark plug wires, then position them aside.
  9. Disconnect the upper radiator hose. Remove the heater hoses from the cylinder head.
  10. If equipped, remove the cruise control actuator. Do not disconnect the cable; move the actuator out of the work area with the cable attached.
  11. Remove accessory drive belts.
  12. Disconnect the inlet hose from the power steering pump and plug the hose immediately to prevent fluid leakage. Remove the power steering pump from the cylinder head and position it aside.

When the power steering hose is disconnected, the fluid will flow out. Cover the alternator with a shop towel to prevent the fluid from leaking into it.

  1. If the alternator is mounted to the cylinder head, remove it.
  2. Remove the power steering and alternator brackets if they are mounted on the cylinder head.
  3. Remove the distributor. Be sure to scribe a line relating the position of the distributor to the engine for easy installation.
  4. If equipped, remove the cylinder sensor next to the distributor.
  5. Remove the valve cover.
  6. Remove the timing belt.

Do not crimp or bend the timing belt.

  1. Remove the exhaust header pipe nuts and the header pipe bracket (if equipped). Pull the pipe away from the exhaust manifold.
  2. If equipped, remove the EGR crossover and air suction pipes.
  3. On Accords through 1989 and Preludes through 1991, the cylinder head can be removed with the intake and exhaust manifolds either still attached or removed. On other models, the manifolds should be removed first.
  4. On some engines, it will be necessary to remove the camshaft holders, camshafts and rocker arms to access the cylinder head bolts. If so, refer to the proper procedures in this section.
  5. Remove the cylinder head bolts in sequence (take notice of any bolt holes occupied by longer bolts). Failure to follow this procedure may cause the head to warp.
    1. On 1984-89 Accords and 1984-91 Preludes, work from the ends toward the center. Loosen each bolt about 1 / 2 turn each time and make several passes to release the tension evenly.
    2. On 1990-95 Accords and 1992-95 Preludes, follow the loosening sequence shown in the illustrations. Loosen each bolt about 1/3 turn each time. Repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.

3_5_2012_9_19_50_pm.gif
Fig. 1: Bolt loosening sequence on 1990-93 Accords and 1992-95 Preludes with 2.2L engines

24. Remove the cylinder head. The head may resist removal, even with the bolts out. Tap the edge of the head with a plastic or rubber mallet; lift the head straight up to remove it.
  1. Remove the cylinder head gasket and clean the mating surfaces.
  1. If applicable, remove the intake and exhaust manifolds from the cylinder head.

To install:
  1. Install a new head gasket on the engine, making certain it is positioned correctly. The cylinder head dowel pins and the oil jet must be in place. Refer to the illustrations if necessary.
  2. Install the head. Lower it straight down onto the block, aligning it correctly.
  3. Apply clean engine oil to the bolt threads and the contact face of the bolt head. Install the head bolts finger-tight.
  4. On all models except 1988-89 DOHC Prelude and 1992-95 Preludes with 2.3L and VTEC engines, tighten the head bolts following sequence A. On 1988-89 DOHC Preludes, use sequence B. Use sequence C on 1992-95 Preludes with 2.3L and VTEC engines.
    1. On 1984-89 Accords and 1984-91 Preludes, tighten the bolts in two passes. The first pass should bring the bolts to about 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). On the second pass, tighten the bolts to their final torque of 49 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
    2. On 1990-93 Accords, tighten the bolts to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) on the first pass, 51 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) on the second pass, then tighten the bolts to their final torque of 78 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
    3. On 1994-95 Accords and 1992-95 Preludes, the bolts are also tightened in three passes. Tighten the bolts to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) on the first pass, 51 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) on the second pass, then tighten the bolts to their final torque of 72 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
    .
3_5_2012_9_24_01_pm.jpg
Fig. Cylinder head bolt torque sequence B

3_5_2012_9_24_44_pm.jpg
Fig. Cylinder head bolt torque sequence B

3_5_2012_9_25_06_pm.jpg
Fig. Cylinder head bolt torque sequence C

  1. If applicable, assemble the intake and exhaust manifolds to the head. Use new gaskets.
  2. If applicable, install the cam, rockers and camshaft holders.
  3. If equipped, install the EGR crossover and air suction pipes.
  4. Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold using new nuts.
  5. Install the timing belt.
  6. Install the valve cover.
  7. Install the cylinder sensor (if equipped) and the distributor.
  8. If applicable, install the alternator.
  9. Install the power steering pump, then connect the inlet hose to the pump.
  10. Install the accessory drive belts. Adjust the belt tensions.
  11. Install the heater hoses.
  12. Install the cruise control actuator if it was removed.
  13. Connect the spark plug wires. Connect all the wire harnesses and vacuum hoses to the cylinder head, intake manifold and throttle body/carburetor.
  14. Connect the throttle control cable and/or accelerator cable at the throttle body.
  15. Connect the fuel lines.
  16. Install the brake booster, PCV and charcoal canister vacuum hoses.
  17. Install the air cleaner and intake duct.
  18. Refill the engine coolant. It is recommended that the engine oil be changed whenever a cylinder head is removed.
  19. Connect the negative battery cable.
  20. Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Bleed the cooling system. Check the work area carefully for any signs of fluid leakage or any indication of the timing belt rubbing or slapping the covers

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.
Thank you for using FixYa.

Mar 05, 2012 | 1993 Honda Accord

2 Answers

Head torque specs for 92 honda accord with f22a1


Thanks for using FixYa.

To install:
  1. Install a new head gasket on the engine, making certain it is positioned correctly. The cylinder head dowel pins and the oil jet must be in place. Refer to the illustrations if necessary.
  2. Install the head. Lower it straight down onto the block, aligning it correctly.
  3. Apply clean engine oil to the bolt threads and the contact face of the bolt head. Install the head bolts finger-tight.
  4. On all models except 1988-89 DOHC Prelude and 1992-95 Preludes with 2.3L and VTEC engines, tighten the head bolts following sequence A. On 1988-89 DOHC Preludes, use sequence B. Use sequence C on 1992-95 Preludes with 2.3L and VTEC engines.
    1. On 1984-89 Accords and 1984-91 Preludes, tighten the bolts in two passes. The first pass should bring the bolts to about 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). On the second pass, tighten the bolts to their final torque of 49 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
    2. On 1990-93 Accords, tighten the bolts to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) on the first pass, 51 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) on the second pass, then tighten the bolts to their final torque of 78 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
    3. On 1994-95 Accords and 1992-95 Preludes, the bolts are also tightened in three passes. Tighten the bolts to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) on the first pass, 51 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) on the second pass, then tighten the bolts to their final torque of 72 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).

      0900c152800b80b4.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

      Fig. Fig. 9: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence A

      jturcotte_2331.gif

      Fig. Fig. 10: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence B


      0900c152800b80b6.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

      Fig. Fig. 11: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence C


  5. If applicable, assemble the intake and exhaust manifolds to the head. Use new gaskets.
  6. If applicable, install the cam, rockers and camshaft holders.
  7. If equipped, install the EGR crossover and air suction pipes.
  8. Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold using new nuts.
  9. Install the timing belt.
  10. Install the valve cover.
  11. Install the cylinder sensor (if equipped) and the distributor.
  12. If applicable, install the alternator.
  13. Install the power steering pump, then connect the inlet hose to the pump.
  14. Install the accessory drive belts. Adjust the belt tensions.
  15. Install the heater hoses.
  16. Install the cruise control actuator if it was removed.
  17. Connect the spark plug wires. Connect all the wire harnesses and vacuum hoses to the cylinder head, intake manifold and throttle body/carburetor.
  18. Connect the throttle control cable and/or accelerator cable at the throttle body.
  19. Connect the fuel lines.
  20. Install the brake booster, PCV and charcoal canister vacuum hoses.
  21. Install the air cleaner and intake duct.
  22. Refill the engine coolant. It is recommended that the engine oil be changed whenever a cylinder head is removed.
  23. Connect the negative battery cable.
  24. Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Bleed the cooling system. Check the work area carefully for any signs of fluid leakage or any indication of the timing belt rubbing or slapping the covers.

Sep 25, 2011 | Honda Accord Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

IM JUST WONDERING HOW HARD IT IS TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR IN MY 1995 HONDA ACCORD EX 4 CYLINDER VTEC


Hi, you have to remove the power steering pump to get the alternator out. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

1994-95 Accord

See Figure 4
EXCEPT V-6 MODELS
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then the positive cable.
Remove the power steering pump.
  • Drain the fluid from the system as follows:
    1. Disconnect the pump return hose from the reservoir and place the end in a large container. Plug the port in the reservoir.
    2. Start the engine and allow it to run at fast idle. Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times, until fluid stops running from the hose. Shut off the engine immediately; don't run the pump without fluid.
    3. Reattach the hose.

  • Disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses at the pump. Remove the drive belt.
  • Remove the mounting bolts/nuts and remove the pump.
  • jturcotte_1292.gif

    Fig. Fig. 1: Once the drive belt and mounting nuts/bolts are removed from the pump, it can be removed from the engine
    .


    1. Unplug the multi-connector from the back of the alternator.
    2. Remove the terminal nut and remove the wire from the terminal.
    3. Loosen the through-bolt, adjustment locknut, and the adjusting bolt.
    4. Remove the belt from the alternator.
    5. Remove the adjustment nut and bolt.
    6. Remove the through-bolt and the alternator.
    jturcotte_1293.gif

    Fig. Fig. 4: Alternator mounting on 1994-95 Accords


    To install:

    1. Fit the alternator into place. Install the through-bolt and tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
    2. Install the adjustment bolt and nut.
    3. Install the belt and adjust the tension. Tighten the locknut to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
    4. Connect the wire to the terminal and tighten the nut.
    5. Engage the multi-pin connector to the alternator.
    6. Install the power steering pump.
      1. Install in reverse order. Adjust the belt tension, fill the reservoir and bleed the air from the system. Tighten the bolts/nuts to the following:

        1984-85 Accord and Prelude pivot bolt 32 ft. lbs. (45 Nm); adjusting nut 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm) 1986-89 Accord pivot bolt 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm); adjusting nut 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) 1986-87 Prelude pivot bolt and mounting nut 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) 1990-93 Accord through bolt 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm); mounting nut 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) 1988-91 Prelude mounting nuts and bolts 35 ft. lbs. (49 Nm) 1994-95 Accord mounting nuts 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) 1992-95 Prelude mounting nuts and bolts 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm)
      2. Properly enable the SRS system, if equipped, and connect the negative battery cable.


      SYSTEM BLEEDING

      1. Make sure the reservoir is filled to the FULL mark; do not overfill.
      2. Start the engine and allow it to idle.
      3. Turn the steering wheel from side-to-side several times, lightly contacting the stops.
      4. Turn the engine OFF .
      5. Check the fluid level in the reservoir and add if necessary.
    7. Connect the positive battery cable, then the negative cable.

    Mar 21, 2011 | 1995 Honda Accord

    1 Answer

    Set timing on a 1992 honda prelude, 2.3 engine, I REPLACED THE DISTRIBUTER AND NOW ITS COMPLETELY OUT OF TIME, detailed instructions please


    1. Locate the service check connector and, if applicable, remove the cap. On 1988-91 Preludes, the cap is yellow and the connector is located next to the vacuum control box in the engine compartment. On 1992-95 Preludes, the service connector is located under the middle of the dash. On 1990-93 Accords, the connector is blue and is located behind the right front kick panel, under the dashboard. On 1994-95 Accords, the service connector is located behind the glove box. Use a jumper wire to connect the two terminals of the service connector.
    1. Following the manufacturers instructions, connect a timing light to the engine. The positive and negative leads connect to their corresponding battery terminals and the spark plug lead to No. 1 spark plug wire.
    2. Make sure that all wires are clear of the cooling fan and hot exhaust manifolds.
    3. Set the parking brake and block the front wheels. Start the engine. Check that the idle speed is set to specifications.
    4. Point the timing light at the timing marks. On all models except 1994-95 Accords, the marks are on the flywheel. On the 1994-95 Accords, the timing marks are on the crankshaft pulley. When the engine is idling, the red mark must align with the pointer. Some timing marks are indicated by 3 lines; the center one must be aligned with the pointer.

    1. If necessary to adjust the timing, loosen the distributor hold-down bolt(s) and/or nut and slowly rotate the distributor in the required direction while observing the timing marks.
    2. To complete the adjustment operation, tighten the hold-down bolt, taking care not to disturb the adjustment.
    3. Switch the engine OFF . Reinstall the rubber plug in the timing window and remove the timing light. Remove the jumper wire.



    0900c1528005f368.jpg

    Fig. Fig. 4: Service connector on 1988-91 Preludes


    0900c1528005f36b.jpg

    Fig. Fig. 5: Service connector on 1992-95 Preludes

    Mar 03, 2011 | 1992 Honda Prelude

    1 Answer

    The Haynes manual I have has TWO pages ripped out I have to replace the timing belt can you help me


    from autozone.com:
    1990-95 4-Cylinder Accord and 1992-95 Prelude
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Turn the engine to align the timing marks and set cylinder No. 1 to TDC on the compression stroke. Once in this position, the engine must NOT be turned or disturbed. On DOHC Preludes without VTEC, hold each of the camshafts in the TDC position by inserting 5mm diameter punches into the alignment holes just behind each cam pulley.
    3. Remove the splash shield from below the engine.
    4. Drain the engine coolant. Use a clean container; cap or cover the container and wipe up spillage.
    5. Unplug the electrical connector at the cruise control actuator, then remove the actuator. Don't disconnect the cable; simply move the actuator out of the work area.
    6. Remove the belt from the power steering pump. Remove the mounting bolts for the pump. Without disconnecting the hoses, move the pump out of the way.
    7. Unplug the alternator wiring and connectors; remove the engine wiring harness from the valve cover.
    8. Loosen the adjusting and mounting bolts for the alternator and/or compressor. Remove the drive belt(s).
    9. Remove the valve cover.
    10. Remove the side engine mount support bracket, if equipped.
    11. Remove the upper timing belt cover.
    12. Support the engine with a floor jack on the oil pan (use a cushion between the jack and pan). Tension the jack so that it is just supporting the engine but not lifting it.
    13. Remove the side engine mount.
    14. Remove the dipstick and dipstick tube.
    15. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and remove the crankshaft pulley.
    This bolt is one of the tightest on the entire car. The pulley must be held in place while the bolt is loosened. One trick is to wrap an old drive belt around the pulley to hold it steady-don't try this with a belt that is to go back on the car; it will be stretched or damaged.
    1. If necessary for additional clearance to remove the lower timing belt cover, remove the two rear bolts from the center beam. Slowly lower the jack and the engine until the clearance is gained.
    2. Remove the rubber seal from around the belt tension adjusting nut (do not loosen the nut). Remove the lower timing belt cover.
    3. On all models except Prelude with VTEC, lock the timing belt adjuster arm in place using one of the lower cover (6 x 1mm) mounting bolts.
    88d9a40.gif

    Fig. 10: On all engines except VTEC, the belt adjuster arm must be locked in place using one of the lower cover mounting bolts
    There are two belts in this system; the one running to the camshaft pulley is the timing belt. The other, shorter one drives the balance shaft and is referred to as the balancer belt or timing balancer belt. Use a piece of chalk or a marker to place an identifying arrow on the belts. The arrow can identify the direction of rotation or the outer edge of the belts. The belts must be reinstalled so it moves in the same direction. Protect the belts from oil, coolant, etc. It's an even better idea to replace the belts at this point.

    1. Loosen the timing belt adjustment nut. Push on the tensioner to relieve tension from the balancer belt, then tighten the nut. Remove the balancer belt.
    2. On all models except Prelude with VTEC, loosen the lockbolt installed earlier and the adjusting nut. Push on the tensioner to release the timing belt, then tighten the nut. Carefully remove the timing belt. On Prelude VTEC models, remove the timing belt from the pulleys, then remove the bolts securing the auto-tensioner. Remove the auto-tensioner from the engine.
    To install:
    1. Check the position of the timing marks. The timing pointer must be perfectly aligned with the TDC (white mark) on the flywheel or flex-plate; the camshaft pulley must be aligned so that the word UP is at the top of the pulley and the marks on the edge of the pulley are aligned with the surfaces of the head. Additionally, the face of the front timing balancer pulley has a mark which must be aligned with the notch on the oil pump body. This pulley is the one to the left crank when viewed from the pulley end.
    2. Fit the timing belt over the pulleys and tensioner. On DOHC engines without VTEC, remove the 5mm pin punches from behind the cam pulleys.
    3. Except Prelude VTEC models:
      1. Temporarily install the crank pulley and bolt.
      2. Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut 1 turn, then tighten it. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth to create tension on the belt. Loosen the nut again, then tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
    Always rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from the pulley end. Rotating it clockwise will cause improper adjustment and possible damage.
    1. On Prelude VTEC models:
      1. Hold the auto-tensioner with the maintenance bolt facing up. Loosen and remove the bolt.
    Handle the tensioner carefully so the oil inside does not spill or leak. Replenish with clean engine oil if any does leak. Total capacity is1/4fl. oz. (8 ml).
    1. Make sure all timing marks are positioned correctly (as described earlier).
    2. Align the rear timing balancer pulley (to the right of the crank pulley) using a 6x100mm bolt or rod. Mark the bolt or rod at a point 2.913 in. (74mm) from the end. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole on the side of the block; insert the rod into the hole. Align the 74mm mark with the face of the hole. This pin will hold the shaft in place during installation.
    3. Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely.
    aa17346.gif Fig. 13: The balancer shaft must be held in position during timing belt installation
    1. Fit the balancer belt over the pulleys. Remove the bolt or rod from the maintenance hole.
    2. Temporarily install the crank pulley. Rotate the engine one turn counterclockwise, then tighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Double check the positions of the timing marks and make sure they still line up. If not remove the belts and repeat the procedures.
    Both belt adjusters are spring-loaded to properly tension the belts. Do not apply any additional pressure to the pulleys or tensioners while performing the adjustment.
    1. Remove the crank pulley. Remove the lockbolt installed earlier on the timing belt adjuster arm. Install the maintenance bolt with a new washer. Tighten it to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
    2. Install the lower cover, making certain the rubber seals are in place and correctly located. Tighten the retaining bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
    3. If applicable, raise the lower beam and engine into place. Install the rear bolts for the lower beam. Tighten them to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) on 1990-91 Accords, 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) on 1992-95 Accords and 43 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) on 1992-95 Preludes.
    4. Install the key on the crankshaft and install the crankshaft pulley. Apply oil to the bolt threads and tighten it to the following: 1991-93 Accord: 159 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
    1. Install the dipstick tube and dipstick.
    2. Install the side engine mount (refer to engine removal and installation for procedures). Remove the jack from under the engine.
    3. Install the upper belt cover.
    4. Install the side engine mount support bracket if it was removed.
    5. Install the valve cover.
    6. Install the compressor and/or alternator drive belt; adjust the tension.
    7. Route the wiring harness over the valve cover and connect the wiring to the alternator.
    8. Install the power steering pump and install the belt.
    9. Reinstall the cruise control actuator. Connect the vacuum hose and the electrical connector.
    10. Double check all installation items, paying particular attention to loose hoses or hanging wires, untightened nuts, poor routing of hoses and wires (too tight or rubbing) and tools left in the engine area.
    11. Refill the engine coolant.
    12. Install the splash shield under the engine.
    13. Connect the negative battery cable.
    14. Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Check for any signs of leakage or any sound of the belts rubbing or binding.

    Sep 20, 2010 | 1992 Honda Accord

    1 Answer

    How do you set the timming on a 95 honda accord


    1990–95 4-Cylinder Accord and 1992–95 Prelude
    1. .
    2. Fig. 10: On all engines except VTEC, the belt adjuster arm must be locked in place using one of the lower cover mounting bolts 86803136.gif
      NOTE: There are two belts in this system; the one running to the camshaft pulley is the timing belt. The other, shorter one drives the balance shaft and is referred to as the balancer belt or timing balancer belt. Use a piece of chalk or a marker to place an identifying arrow on the belts. The arrow can identify the direction of rotation or the outer edge of the belts. The belts must be reinstalled so it moves in the same direction. Protect the belts from oil, coolant, etc. It's an even better idea to replace the belts at this point.
    3. Loosen the timing belt adjustment nut. Push on the tensioner to relieve tension from the balancer belt, then tighten the nut. Remove the balancer belt.
    4. On all models except Prelude with VTEC, loosen the lockbolt installed earlier and the adjusting nut. Push on the tensioner to release the timing belt, then tighten the nut. Carefully remove the timing belt. On Prelude VTEC models, remove the timing belt from the pulleys, then remove the bolts securing the auto-tensioner. Remove the auto-tensioner from the engine. To install:
    5. Check the position of the timing marks. The timing pointer must be perfectly aligned with the TDC (white mark) on the flywheel or flex-plate; the camshaft pulley must be aligned so that the word UP is at the top of the pulley and the marks on the edge of the pulley are aligned with the surfaces of the head. Additionally, the face of the front timing balancer pulley has a mark which must be aligned with the notch on the oil pump body. This pulley is the one to the left crank when viewed from the pulley end.
    6. Fit the timing belt over the pulleys and tensioner. On DOHC engines without VTEC, remove the 5mm pin punches from behind the cam pulleys.
    7. Except Prelude VTEC models:
      1. Temporarily install the crank pulley and bolt.
      2. Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut 1 turn, then tighten it. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth to create tension on the belt. Loosen the nut again, then tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). NOTE: Always rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from the pulley end. Rotating it clockwise will cause improper adjustment and possible damage.
      3. Tighten the lockbolt installed earlier to lock the timing belt adjuster arm. Remove the crank pulley.
    8. On Prelude VTEC models:
      1. Hold the auto-tensioner with the maintenance bolt facing up. Loosen and remove the bolt. NOTE: Handle the tensioner carefully so the oil inside does not spill or leak. Replenish with clean engine oil if any does leak. Total capacity is 1⁄4 fl. oz. (8 ml).
      2. Clamp the mounting flange of the tensioner in a vise using a cloth or blocks of wood to protect it. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the maintenance hole. Place the stopper (tool number 14540-P13-003) or an equivalent clamp on the tensioner, then turn the screwdriver clockwise to compress the bottom. Be careful not to damage the threads or the gasket contact surface.
      3. Install the maintenance bolt on the tensioner with a new gasket. Tighten to 6 ft. lbs. (8 Nm).
      4. Make sure no oil is leaking from around the maintenance bolt, then install the tensioner on the engine. Make sure the stopper stays in place and tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
      5. Remove the stopper. Fig. 11: On VTEC engines, the tensioner must be compressed before installing it on the engine 86803137.gif
        Fig. 12: Remove the stopper after installing the tensioner on the engine 86803138.gif

    9. Make sure all timing marks are positioned correctly (as described earlier).
    10. Align the rear timing balancer pulley (to the right of the crank pulley) using a 6x100mm bolt or rod. Mark the bolt or rod at a point 2.913 in. (74mm) from the end. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole on the side of the block; insert the rod into the hole. Align the 74mm mark with the face of the hole. This pin will hold the shaft in place during installation.
    11. Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely. Fig. 13: The balancer shaft must be held in position during timing belt installation 86803139.gif

    12. Fit the balancer belt over the pulleys. Remove the bolt or rod from the maintenance hole.
    13. Temporarily install the crank pulley. Rotate the engine one turn counterclockwise, then tighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Double check the positions of the timing marks and make sure they still line up. If not remove the belts and repeat the procedures. NOTE: Both belt adjusters are spring-loaded to properly tension the belts. Do not apply any additional pressure to the pulleys or tensioners while performing the adjustment.
    14. Remove the crank pulley. Remove the lockbolt installed earlier on the timing belt adjuster arm. Install the maintenance bolt with a new washer. Tighten it to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
    15. Install the lower cover, making certain the rubber seals are in place and correctly located. Tighten the retaining bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
    16. If applicable, raise the lower beam and engine into place. Install the rear bolts for the lower beam. Tighten them to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) on 1990–91 Accords, 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) on 1992–95 Accords and 43 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) on 1992–95 Preludes.
    17. Install the key on the crankshaft and install the crankshaft pulley. Apply oil to the bolt threads and tighten it to the following:
      • 1990 Accord: 166 ft. lbs. (230 Nm)
      • 1991–93 Accord: 159 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
      • 1992–93 Prelude: 159 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
      • 1994–95 Accord and Prelude: 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm)
    18. Install the dipstick tube and dipstick.
    19. Install the side engine mount (refer to engine removal and installation for procedures). Remove the jack from under the engine.
    20. Install the upper belt cover.
    21. Install the side engine mount support bracket if it was removed.
    22. Install the valve cover.
    23. Install the compressor and/or alternator drive belt; adjust the tension.
    24. Route the wiring harness over the valve cover and connect the wiring to the alternator.
    25. Install the power steering pump and install the belt.
    26. Reinstall the cruise control actuator. Connect the vacuum hose and the electrical connector.
    27. Double check all installation items, paying particular attention to loose hoses or hanging wires, untightened nuts, poor routing of hoses and wires (too tight or rubbing) and tools left in the engine area.
    28. Refill the engine coolant.
    29. Install the splash shield under the engine.
    30. Connect the negative battery cable.
    31. Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Check for any signs of leakage or any sound of the belts rubbing or binding.

    Jul 18, 2010 | 1995 Honda Accord

    1 Answer

    I have 02 accord coupe and it says VTEC and automatic!! How do I know if the VTEC is connected!


    ok lets break this down
    Vtec= Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control

    if you look on the the motor on the left side youll see 2 things the distributor and the vtec solenoid.. the vtec solenoidif the smaller of the 2 thats it m8 theres 2 wires running from it .. all vtec does is lift the cams on a high 3rd lobe :) rides in the middle of the 2 smaller cam's on a automatic it should pop around 5.200 rpms on a honda ecu thats not tuned.. also a exaust helps or a intake that produce a higher tone thats unmistakeable when vtec hits.. its a beautiful thing hit me up with any! honda stuff ive done swaps to my 92 prelude si 2.2l vtec and many more so i know a honda engine and wireing like theback of my hand

    Aug 11, 2009 | 2002 Honda Accord

    1 Answer

    93 honda prelude dohc vtec engine will not can be push started


    Sounds like you accidently pulled the thin wire from you starter motor. Look at the connections at the end of the solenoid, mounted on starter motor.The thick red wire is Battery + next to that connection is a smaller male push- on terminal, locate loose wire (thin) in the same area and reconnect to male push-on terminal on solenoid or check if earth cable between body/battery to engine wasnt removed in the process.Also some vehicles you have to engage the clutch before starting, check for a switch located on clutch pedal where master cylinder connects to clutch pedal (Is clutch switch mounted and wiring connected?)

    Jan 03, 2009 | 1993 Honda Prelude

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