New battery and starter was bench tested and showed to be good. I hear two clicks when I turn the key. One sounds like its in the cab under the dash. The other click sounds like its under the hood. Checked battery cables and tried a different key. Anyone have any ideas?
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Re: 2000 Ford Ranger wont start or turn over.
What is litre size of engine, automatic tranny or manual? Check the wiring circuits at the starter for voltage,use a test light, One circuit is hot all the time, the other circuit goes hot when starter relay is energized. Any testing at the starter make sure tranny is in park or neutral and the parking brake is set. The clicking noise may be the starter relay.
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Check your cables. Make sure the ground is good and surfaces are clean. It could be a bad starter. Make for sure that the battery has sufficient voltage. Also, when you turn the key over and you hear a click, that means the solenoid is bad. If you don't hear anything, then the starter motor is shot and a new starter will be needed.
First make sure you can turn engine over with a socket and that it is not seized. Second if engine checks out fine does the starter just click with the ignition key? If it does perform what is called a voltage drop test on the starter cables. Connect a volt meter on each end of the cable you are testing you should read no more that a half a volt drop when loading the circuit. If cables check out fine pull the starter and have it bench tested at an auto parts store. But be carefull bench testing can show a starter is ok with out putting a load on it, if it still shows good on the bench you still may need to replace it. If you don't get a click with the key check for 12 volts at the starter connector unplugged, if no trace starter wire noting color code back through the starter safety switch back to the ignition switch.
Most parts stores can bench test the starter. Also verify that when you turn the key on that there is a click in the relay cluster under the hood by the battery which would be the starter relay activating to power the starter solenoid. If you fail to hear this click then locate and swap the relay with one that does work like the headlamps. If again this fails to work, (assuming you bench tested the starter and it passed) you can try bypassing the relay with a paperclip after probing the contacts and finding a power in and a lead that is not grounded by using the ohm meter to probe it to the battery ground. If you feel comfortable to try this and it cranks and starts or at least cranks, then suspect the neutral safety switch. This is possibly located on the transmission or the steering column at the gear shift selector. This switch only allows the vehicle to be started in park or neutral with an automatic. I doubt its a manual, but if so then check the clutch switch at the top of the clutch, just put a paper clip in its connector and try starting the van while out of gear. But in cases like this if the starter passes a bench test then usually the neutral switch or starter relay has failed.
Starter could be stuck..
If you are SURE you battery is fully charged with no dead cells..
(takes 2 peopl) -
Turn the key like you are trying to start it.
At the SAME time - smack the starter with a small hammer not too too hard..
Let me know what happens..
Take a volt meter and put the red probe of the meter on the engine block and the black probe on the battery Negative terminal. Have somone try to crank the car. If you get a reading of over 1/2 volt, you have a bad ground from the battery to the Engine block. Check the terminals on both ends of this wire.
If the above is OK, Put the volt meter on the battery terminals. (Red to Positive) and try cranking the car. If the voltage falls well below 9.6V your battery is bad. If 9.6 V or more, you may have somthing binding in the engine. When did this car run last?