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DTSC and ABS are faulty at the same time, what could be the common cause for this? Thank you!

When engine is turned off and turned on again a while after, DTSC and/or ABS may be off until I start riding again. After a short amount of time, the yellow lights for both will come on again, not necessarily at the same time. This issue first came about with the first winterly/slippery days early this week. Something else, the hydraulic brake fluid was replaced at a Volvo dealer a few weeks ago. Furthermore, I have defective front bumper radars (this issue first occurred last winter) - I don't believe this is related but just in case and, to finish off, my OBDII diagnostic computer doesn't return any fault codes nor does the "Check Engine" light come on.

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  • Spike Nexus
    Spike Nexus Nov 22, 2014

    Additional info for helpers-to-be: At engine startup, DTSC is off, ABS is on and goes off when starting to ride until it flicks back on along with DTSC. Just before lights turn on, I hear clicking sound left on the dashboard (inside engine compartment ?) and I feel a vibration under gas pedal. When lights come on, ticking and vibrations disappear. By the way, I added this comment for lack of knowing how to edit my initial posting...

  • Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland Nov 24, 2014

    check the sensors ,must dash time for work

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  • Volvo Master
  • 22,265 Answers

Sorry dealer only to diagnose this problem ,all this fancy encrypted software ,your reader can read very little on this vehicle

Posted on Nov 20, 2014

  • Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland Nov 22, 2014

    Dont worry boss i wrote a essay and deleted it with my big clumsy fingers,Right now where was i ,yes ABS ---now the ABS computer is the only one that can reset itself once the fault is cleared ,if you had my software it would tell you the fault saving a lot of time but what you do is to test each sensor in turn ,follow back from the wheel sensor to the multiplug connection then disconnect it and remove the sensor ,now check the toothed ring if it has one as it wouldnt be the first time i have found one of these loose on the drive shaft .Then with sensor off vehicle connect a multimeter across it and check for a resistance which will not be a lot 20 or ohms ,also leave multimeter connected and turn to milliamps and then with the sensor in a vice or something rapidly pass a spanner over the end and you should read a slight voltage .somewhere along the line iam sure you have a faulty sensor or a dirty connection in one of the multiplugs .as for the response under the pedal and ticking noise then iam at a loss never come across this as of yet ???? but their is always a FIRST could be the ABS pump or one of the valves who knows without my head under the engine and its intriguing me so any answer you end up with please post a comment .You could ask a local mechanic for a opinion and post ? for a second opinion on the opinion as remember nobody is perfect and with the large number of makes and models on the market nowdays nobody knows everything least of all me with all this fancy software being used .Now cars made of metal with points and carbs i know about !! but these newer cars need a computer nerd not a old dinasaur like myself

  • Spike Nexus
    Spike Nexus Nov 22, 2014

    Hum, sorry but I've already posted a non-useful evaluation on your 3-line answer... I did not realize that the bulk of your answer was under your own commenting section (I'm new with this website). Anyway, I will keep you all posted with my findings but it may take a while because I want to have a good idea of the problem BEFORE any garage sees the lights of my car and because I don't have much room nor many tools to work on my car. As for the ticking sound, it seems to match 1 tick per wheel rotation - more or less - which further comforts my thoughts about a defective wheel ABS sensor (also considering your feedback). Good day!

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SOURCE: I have a 2004 Pontiac Aztek. The ABS brake light

hello i have a similar problem with my 2002 aztek the ABS light comes on only after my ABS system kick on when it is not suppose to (like normal braking conditions) i took it to be looked at at my local shop who also said it was a front hub having a bad wheel speed censor less than a week after having the work done the problem returned i took it back and they ran diagnostics on it for somewhere around 5 hr and could find nothing so they replaces the hub again.... no shocker here the problem isnt fixed still most recent time i had it in the tech said the problem is the cars computer is "loosing the wheel" he showed me where the main wiring harness runs right next to the oil pan along the bottom of the engine. the wires that go to the ABS control for that side are very swollen and the wires inside are loosing contact. they told me that i would have to replace the harness or live with the problem. after doing research the harness is no longer made and cost around $900 just for the part then u have to pay for the labor of someone putting it in
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Posted on May 09, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanx for the feedback. I was told that it might be an electrical short somewhere within the wiring harrness however I questioned that if that was the problem, would it not occur right away intead of weeks after the hub replacement. I finally took it to my own mechanic and her stated that her did find the connection clip between the hub and the wiring harress had a loose prong so he tighted it. So far so good and I haven't experiend the problem since, however I am waiting for wet weather since the problem seemed to occur during during or right after a rain. Again thank for your help. "

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