Question about Cars & Trucks
From what you described this is your tie rod. This should be connected to a hole on the wheel, with a nut on the bottom. This is part of the steering mechanism it must be attached. It should be attached to an arm with two nuts that you need to loosen and unscrew the tie rod. Count the amount of turns that it takes to unscrew so that when you replace it you can count the turns back to put it back in . Then you must have a front end alignment done?
Posted on Nov 20, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Ignition and Start Switch Replacement
Disconnect the battery ground cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect and Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Remove the steering column filler panel. Refer to Steering Column Filler Replacement .
Remove the knee bolster bracket. Refer to Bracket Replacement - Knee Bolster .
Remove the instrument panel (I/P) cluster trim panel. Refer to Trim Plate Bezel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Cluster .
Remove the ignition switch bolts.
Lower the ignition switch away from the instrument carrier.
Insert the key into the ignition lock cylinder. Turn the key to the ON/RUN position.
Depress the transaxle park/lock cable retainer to release. Pull to remove the park/lock cable from the ignition switch.
Important: The Passlock? electrical connector cannot be removed until the lock cylinder is removed.
Depress and hold the detent on the bottom of the ignition switch in order to release the ignition lock cylinder. Remove the ignition lock cylinder with the key.
Disconnect the Passlock? electrical connector.
Disconnect the electrical connectors.
Important: Ignition switch lock cylinder that won't rotate or is seized.
Perform the following procedure if the ignition switch lock cylinder is seized or won't rotate.
12.1. Protect the immediate work area with suitable material such as clean shop towels or a clean fender cover.
12.2. Locate the surface for the ignition switch lock cylinder release button (2) on the plastic ignition switch housing and center punch a location (1) on the "rib" approximately 3/8 inch reward (toward the key entry end) from the cylinder release button.
12.3. Carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing with a 1/8 inch drill bit.
12.4. Carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the ignition switch lock cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring using a 9/32 inch drill bit.
12.5. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small suitable tool.
12.6. Grasp the ignition switch lock cylinder and remove it from the switch housing.
12.7. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operation, and using compressed air blow out the ignition switch assembly.
12.8. Follow service manual procedures when cylinder cording is required. Refer to Key and Lock Cylinder Coding in General Information.
If the lock cylinder would not rotate or was seized, perform the following procedure:
1.1. Install the new ignition switch lock cylinder as required by rotating both the cylinder and the ignition switch to the ON position.
1.2. Push the ignition switch lock cylinder into the ignition switch housing until fully seated.
1.3. You may have to slightly depress the release button as the button passes by the 9/32-in hole previously drilled in the ignition switch housing.
Connect the electrical connectors.
Connect the Passlock? electrical connector.
Connect the park/lock cable to the ignition switch Turn the key to the ON/RUN position. Install the ignition lock cylinder into the ignition switch. If you turned the key slightly while removing the lock cylinder, you may have to align the white colored ignition switch rotor (1) with the lock cylinder (2). You can rotate the ignition switch rotor (1) with your finger.
Remove the key
Position the ignition switch to the instrument carrier.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the ignition switch bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 10 N?m (89 lb in).
Install the trim plate bezel to the I/P cluster. Refer to Trim Plate Bezel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Cluster .
Install the knee bolster bracket. Refer to Bracket Replacement - Knee Bolster .
Install the steering column filler panel. Refer to Steering Column Filler Replacement .
Connect the battery ground cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect and Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
rate me fix ya cuz this is the fix 100%
Posted on Aug 17, 2008
Step one 37 ft lbs then tignten 120 degrees more
Step one 11 ft lbs then tighten 90 degresss more
89 inch lbs
132 inch lbs
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
Hi, these symptoms can be caused by a few issue within the front area of this vehicles. i will list a few problem spots that i recommend inspecting. you will find the issue in one or all the areas listed below.
CHECK THESE FOLLOWING AREAS--
1. Check the tie rod ends.this is the part that is connected to the wheel rotors. if the ends of the tie rod are lose or worn, it will cause this sound you are hearing at this time.
2. I would also inspect the Steering gear as well. this is associated with the power steering pump.
3. The most common issue will be the CV Half-Shaft (Remanufactured) CCT. if the CV boot that covers the CV joint assembly, becomes tron and lose, it will expose the well oiled joint assembly. this will allow drying of this vital joint, therefore, reducing the fluid motion of the joint. This drying will produce the (CLUNK) that you are hearing when driving on the road or hitting bumps as well.
Remember to check all the above. you will find the issue in one or all of the above areas.
Please rate and god bless:)
Posted on May 04, 2009
the cheapest way to replace your window motor would be to go to a salvage yard to get the replacement. they are not very hard to install the hardest part of the job is removing the door panel without breaking the clips that hold it in place. just slide a big flathead screwdriver in between the plastic door panel and the metal door frame and twist the screwdriver that way the clips wont break on you.
Posted on Mar 09, 2010
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