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I took my front driverside tire off my 2005 chevy cavalier and noticed that some arm looking like thing that has rubber things on side and the other part that bolts to it has a hole in it. it is no longer conected.what is it and how hard is it to fix on

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From what you described this is your tie rod. This should be connected to a hole on the wheel, with a nut on the bottom. This is part of the steering mechanism it must be attached. It should be attached to an arm with two nuts that you need to loosen and unscrew the tie rod. Count the amount of turns that it takes to unscrew so that when you replace it you can count the turns back to put it back in . Then you must have a front end alignment done?

Posted on Nov 20, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Fixe_You
  • 1800 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 chevy impala ignition switch

Ignition and Start Switch Replacement
Removal Procedure
2c23f8d.jpg Disconnect the battery ground cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect and Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Remove the steering column filler panel. Refer to Steering Column Filler Replacement .
Remove the knee bolster bracket. Refer to Bracket Replacement - Knee Bolster .
Remove the instrument panel (I/P) cluster trim panel. Refer to Trim Plate Bezel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Cluster .
Remove the ignition switch bolts.
Lower the ignition switch away from the instrument carrier.
Insert the key into the ignition lock cylinder. Turn the key to the ON/RUN position.
Depress the transaxle park/lock cable retainer to release. Pull to remove the park/lock cable from the ignition switch.
Important: The Passlock? electrical connector cannot be removed until the lock cylinder is removed.

Depress and hold the detent on the bottom of the ignition switch in order to release the ignition lock cylinder. Remove the ignition lock cylinder with the key.
d857e46.jpg Disconnect the Passlock? electrical connector.
Disconnect the electrical connectors.
4093e3a.jpg Important: Ignition switch lock cylinder that won't rotate or is seized.

Perform the following procedure if the ignition switch lock cylinder is seized or won't rotate.
12.1. Protect the immediate work area with suitable material such as clean shop towels or a clean fender cover.

12.2. Locate the surface for the ignition switch lock cylinder release button (2) on the plastic ignition switch housing and center punch a location (1) on the "rib" approximately 3/8 inch reward (toward the key entry end) from the cylinder release button.

12.3. Carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing with a 1/8 inch drill bit.

12.4. Carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the ignition switch lock cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring using a 9/32 inch drill bit.

12.5. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small suitable tool.

12.6. Grasp the ignition switch lock cylinder and remove it from the switch housing.

12.7. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operation, and using compressed air blow out the ignition switch assembly.

12.8. Follow service manual procedures when cylinder cording is required. Refer to Key and Lock Cylinder Coding in General Information.

Installation Procedure
If the lock cylinder would not rotate or was seized, perform the following procedure:
1.1. Install the new ignition switch lock cylinder as required by rotating both the cylinder and the ignition switch to the ON position.

1.2. Push the ignition switch lock cylinder into the ignition switch housing until fully seated.

1.3. You may have to slightly depress the release button as the button passes by the 9/32-in hole previously drilled in the ignition switch housing.
9600af8.jpg Connect the electrical connectors.
Connect the Passlock? electrical connector.
Connect the park/lock cable to the ignition switchdd765ba.jpg Turn the key to the ON/RUN position. Install the ignition lock cylinder into the ignition switch. If you turned the key slightly while removing the lock cylinder, you may have to align the white colored ignition switch rotor (1) with the lock cylinder (2). You can rotate the ignition switch rotor (1) with your finger.
Remove the key
681874a.jpg Position the ignition switch to the instrument carrier.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the ignition switch bolts.
Tighten

Tighten the bolts to 10 N?m (89 lb in).

Install the trim plate bezel to the I/P cluster. Refer to Trim Plate Bezel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Cluster .
Install the knee bolster bracket. Refer to Bracket Replacement - Knee Bolster .
Install the steering column filler panel. Refer to Steering Column Filler Replacement .
Connect the battery ground cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect and Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.

rate me fix ya cuz this is the fix 100%

Posted on Aug 17, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Engine Bolt Torques- 2005 Chevy Impala/3400 Engine

Head Bolts
Step one 37 ft lbs then tignten 120 degrees more

Rocker arms
Step one 11 ft lbs then tighten 90 degresss more

Upper intake
89 inch lbs
Lower intake
132 inch lbs

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: clunky noise front passenger side on 2003 chevy cavalier

Hi, these symptoms can be caused by a few issue within the front area of this vehicles. i will list a few problem spots that i recommend inspecting. you will find the issue in one or all the areas listed below.

CHECK THESE FOLLOWING AREAS--

1. Check the tie rod ends.this is the part that is connected to the wheel rotors. if the ends of the tie rod are lose or worn, it will cause this sound you are hearing at this time.
2. I would also inspect the Steering gear as well. this is associated with the power steering pump.
3. The most common issue will be the CV Half-Shaft (Remanufactured) CCT. if the CV boot that covers the CV joint assembly, becomes tron and lose, it will expose the well oiled joint assembly. this will allow drying of this vital joint, therefore, reducing the fluid motion of the joint. This drying will produce the (CLUNK) that you are hearing when driving on the road or hitting bumps as well.

Remember to check all the above. you will find the issue in one or all of the above areas.

Please rate and god bless:)

Posted on May 04, 2009

  • 290 Answers

SOURCE: same thing - power window problem

it's a switch problem. motormite/dorman makes these. try that and see how it works.

Posted on Aug 31, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2005 Chevy Cavalier Power Window Motor Fix?

the cheapest way to replace your window motor would be to go to a salvage yard to get the replacement. they are not very hard to install the hardest part of the job is removing the door panel without breaking the clips that hold it in place. just slide a big flathead screwdriver in between the plastic door panel and the metal door frame and twist the screwdriver that way the clips wont break on you.

Posted on Mar 09, 2010

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1 Answer

Front driverside tire hesitates when the vehicle starts moving


Sounds like you have a bad wheel bearing. These cars are known for that. It could also be a bad CV joint [axle] , but it won't usually make your wheel hop. Jack car up and try to move wheel top to bottom. There should be no play at all. Try spinning the wheel while it is off the ground, if it's a bearing, you will hear a grinding noise. If it's a bad CV joint, you will hear a clicking. Let me know if this was helpful to you, and until you get it looked at, I wouldn't drive it, as the wheel can fall right off if it's a bearing. Good luck

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This problem could be a number of things, the best thing to do is to check the front suspension. first jack up the car , front of car with e- brake on, the first thing is to make sure the wheels are not loose, i have seen loose lug nuts cause this problem, shake wheel and then check lug nuts that hold wheel on.

Grab hold of one wheel and shake it in and out, this is done with hands on the left and right of tire, and then top and bottom of tire, you are looking for play in the steering components ,
Next you will need to check the ball joints, to this you will need a floor jack, place the jack under lower control arm, this will take pressure off the joints by compressing the spring, then with a bar placed under the tire lift bar and have someone watch for movement in the ball joints.this is to be done on both sides.

If there is play an these parts then replacement is needed but keep in mind a little play may not cause the clunk you hear, there would have to be a lot of play. the last thing in the front suspension would be the control arm bushings or sway bar bushings. these you will need to look at closely..

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It could be a couple of things.
Loose or worn out strut - (jack up car, remove tire and shake the strut really hard to see if it's loose. Check for signs of leaking or damage to strut)
Missing rubber isolator under front spring (visually inspect the suspension while tire is off).
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On these vehicles the main thing to look for when you have play in the steering is on the passenger side of the vehicle in front of the right front tire on the frame the idler arm.How to check and see if it is that jack up the right front(passenger)side tire and when it is off the ground put one hand on front of the tire and the other hand on the back of the tire and try to move it back and forth,if it moves a decent amount then look at the idler arm and move the tire back and forth again and if the idler arm moves up and down say about 1/2 and inch replace it and have the front end alignment done afterwards.

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Same thing - power window problem


it's a switch problem. motormite/dorman makes these. try that and see how it works.

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2 Answers

Clunky noise front passenger side on 2003 chevy cavalier


Hi, these symptoms can be caused by a few issue within the front area of this vehicles. i will list a few problem spots that i recommend inspecting. you will find the issue in one or all the areas listed below.

CHECK THESE FOLLOWING AREAS--

1. Check the tie rod ends.this is the part that is connected to the wheel rotors. if the ends of the tie rod are lose or worn, it will cause this sound you are hearing at this time.
2. I would also inspect the Steering gear as well. this is associated with the power steering pump.
3. The most common issue will be the CV Half-Shaft (Remanufactured) CCT. if the CV boot that covers the CV joint assembly, becomes tron and lose, it will expose the well oiled joint assembly. this will allow drying of this vital joint, therefore, reducing the fluid motion of the joint. This drying will produce the (CLUNK) that you are hearing when driving on the road or hitting bumps as well.

Remember to check all the above. you will find the issue in one or all of the above areas.

Please rate and god bless:)

May 04, 2009 | 2003 Cadillac Escalade Ext

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Rubber frame mount is broken in the frontend what is it called so i can order part


can you give more details about where this is located? and what it looks like? was it under the car, in the wheel well, in front of the tire, behind the tire, touching the spindle(where the axle meets the wheel)?

Sep 04, 2008 | 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt

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