- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The underhood connections can work by themselves...POS to POS, and NEG to NEG...sometimes dirty/weak connections do not allow the power to transfer fully from the underhood connections...if this is the case then you need to connect directly to the battery in trunk for full power charge...again POS to POS, and NEG to NEG...hope this helps
If the battery is good you will need to follow flow. Test light is the easiest to use. First hook light to ground and touch pos terminal,lights good next touch pos battery cable end, lights good. Next follow pos cable to starter pos terminal,lights good. Next hook test light to bat pos teminal,touch neg terminal,lights good. Then touch engine block, lights good ground. Next move test light clamp back to ground/neg side and touch alt pos terminal,lights good.if all that tests good, if all good move inside and check for power at ign switch pos term if at any time you dont find power you have wiring issue that needs to be addressed. Let me know what you find. Russ
If all you are doing is changing to a side post battery, just connect all the positive cables from the old pos post to the new pos holder and all the neg ones to the new neg holder. If you've already cut them all off and not sure where each wire goes, all the reds are positive, all the blacks are neg. To make sure use your continuity meter to test. Connect one meter lead to any good clean metal part on the car and test between each black wire in turn, the neg ones will show a circuit, the pos ones will not.
Try disconnecting battery again,neg. 1st then pos. while disconnected hold the negative wire and touch the positive wire together,MAKE sure they don't touch anything else.hold for 10 good seconds. Reconnect to battery, pos.(+) terminal first then neg.(-).tighten. Good luck.
if you have access to a digital multimeter, connect the meter (set to volts) across positive and neg. terminal of the battery, should read roughly 12.6 volts, close to 10 volts, battery may be going out, also test the alt output, disconnect neg term and place negative lead to battery neg post and positive lead to neg battery cable (make sure meter is set to amps) should read near the rating, if both those, then you'd want to do a resistance test, (set meter to Ohms) disconnect battery and connect meter neg to either pos cable terminal or where the pos cable connects to the alt and connect positive lead to opposite of neg, should read next to 0, the check resistance of the ground by connecting meter between batt neg cable and body of alt.
Right . its not all bad.
When you have zero electrics , its a major componant failure ie; battery cables , battery fuse links, earth strap ot body etc. A set of jump leads would be helpful. Check battery is charged, check voltage at battery terminal conections and NOT the battery posts as they may be corroded and dirty but look sound (+ and -) bridge Battery neg to metal of engine . This eliminates earth connection (NEG) failure. A simple circuit tester check of the major connections (under dash) and links attached to the POS + terminal at battery should solve the problem. Remember your looking for large connectors (look on bulkhead also for fuse links) and not fuses in interior fusebox. (too many circuits down to be a single fuse type problem.