Question about 2004 Acura TL
I grounded the fuse #2 and the grid does pull 15 amps so I know the load is working,unable to find info to test the part from switch to relay
Connect a amp meter in series the amps will vary as the control switch is moved if all is ok.
Posted on Nov 30, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Acura MDX A/C won't come on
I went to an Acura dealer to buy the transistor for the rear A/C unit. The service advisor told me that the problem with the front A/C was probably due to a defective front transistor / resistor. I bought that part too.
The front transistor is located next to the blower motor under the dash on the passenger's side. It is secured by three or four small bolts. The one on the bottom left is very close to the carpet and the most difficult to get off and put back on.
The rear transistor is located behind the carpeted trim panel on the center console (driver's side). The carpeted trim panel is secured by clips only - there are no screws, so remove it carefully starting at the side near the accellerator pedal. Once the panel has been removed, reach inside a small hole in the metal frame to access the rear transistor. It is removed by twisting it and pulling it out. The hole in the frame is small and you might find pliers helpful.
After replacing both parts, the front and rear A/C are working. Apparently these transistors are common failures. If the A/C is out in your Acura MDX and the fuse checks good, a new transistor will likely solve your problem.
Posted on Oct 01, 2008
check the fuse and the relays for the fan motors.if thats ok check to see if it is vacuum operated controls and that none of the pipes are off or split.
Posted on Oct 14, 2008
SOURCE: 2004 Acura TL front end problem
You may not need the entire strut, just the part that serves as a shock absorber. The term strut refers to a complete assemby with coil spring and a central shock absorber.
When their seals fail completely, whether gas or fluid filled,they are just a piston in a cylinder with nothing to damp their travel so they can slam at both ends.
American made 'shocks' were once only really effective for ~20k miles but both foreign and domestic have improved a great deal but one of yours may have left the factory less than perfect.
Shop the parts before you let the car go to anyone to see if they are scalping you or only marking their cost up a little.
Posted on Nov 06, 2008
it's a wire from under the dash it usually burns out after awhile,i had the same problem email me at firstname.lastname@example.org for more info on the wire i forgot the name for it.
Posted on Jun 13, 2009
My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I have only been a free contributor to this site for the last 4-months.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I do not know if you still need this information, however I am answering it either way.
Click on the following direct Link. It has several Diagrams you will need for your Timing Belt replacement. Included are the Cover Bolt Locations, Tool Needed and Marks for your specific engine.
You may also want to Print out these Diagrams for future use.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Again my apologies...
Posted on Mar 17, 2010
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