Question about 1997 Nissan Quest
REPLACE FUEL PUMP
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Go to Auto Zone, get a Haynes manual on this vehicle. It will tell you where it's at and also help you with future problems.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
SOURCE: fuel pump removal
Replace Fuel Pump for 1997 Nissan Quest
(1) If the fuel tank has more than one third full, you need to get the gasoline out. If it has one third or less full, you can leave it in the tank. However be very careful around the working area. Make sure you have read fire precautions in a general repair book. Take the fuel pump fuse out from the fuse box near the battery. Run starter for a few seconds. This will remove the fuel pressure in the gas lines. Disconnect battery at negative terminal. Jack up the rear of the van.
(2) Remove the fuel tank protector.
(3) Disconnect fuel pipes at the front end of the fuel tank. Use short pencils and extra rubber hoses to block disconnected pipes and hoses.
There are two pipes connected to the gasoline filler at the side of the van. Disconnect only the smaller one. The larger one is flex enough for the tank to be lowered.
(4) Disconnect the electrical from this connector. Jack the rear end of the fuel tank with a car jack and a piece of 2x4. Put the wood between the jack point and the tank. Then unbolt the two bolts showing in the picture.
(5) Lower the jack after the bolts are removed. The rear end of the tank should be lowered.
(6) Disconnect fuel lines on top of the fuel pump. Reconnect each short hose back to different pipes as shown in picture to block the pipes.
(7) Loose the six mounting bolts on the fuel pump assembly. The bolts should be loosen a little at a time in multiple turns. Also detach the electrical wire holders. After all bolts are removed, carefully take the assembly out of the tank.
(8) Remove the fuel pump from the assembly as shown in picture. Then unplug the electrical wires. Note that two connectors are in different sizes, so that you will not be able to reconnect to a wrong terminal.
(9) Put the new pump and new filter in. Reconnect the electrical wires. If necessary use a pair of pliers to make the connectors tighter. Make sure they are not loose. Reconnect gas inlet to the pressure regulator.
(10) Use a new O ring, put back the assembly to the fuel tank. Make sure the float of the fuel level senser is free, and the assembly is at the right orientation (as shown in picture). Screw back the 6 bolts after making sure the O ring is in right place. The bolts should be tightened in turns. Do not over tighten them. Then reconnect the fuel lines and make sure every fastener is tight. Put the electrical wire into holders.
(11) Jack up the tank and put the two mounting bolt in. (see picture in step 4). Make sure they are tightened with specific torque. Reconnect the electrical connector.
(12) Reconnect two fuel lines at the front side of the tank. Refer to the picture in step 2. Reconnect the hose to the gasoline filler. Before you have a try start, double check if all fuel lines are securely connected and tightened.
(13) Start the engine. You need to crank more than a normal start because the lines were empty. The pressure is built up in some time.
(14) If engine starts ok, turn it off. Then check under the van if there is any leakage. If everything is fine put back the tank protector. (picture in step 2).
Posted on May 05, 2009
Hello and thank you for using FixYa!
To replace the water pump, the front engine timing belt would need to be removed. This is a very big job and should be done by someone who is familiar with how timing belt jobs are done.
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
two axles, different for ach side. Passenger side has a carrier on the half shaft, driver side is one solid link. Loosen lug nuts, the you need a 36mm socket to loosen the center nut on the drive shaft, same for both sides. Remove the cotter pin and retainer before loosening the center nut. Jack up the vehicle and secure with jack stands. Remove wheels. Remove brake calipers and tie up out of the way. Loosen and remove lower strut bolts (2) and lower ball joint bolts (3). Swing center knuckle out and off the drive shaft. On passenger side, loosen carrier bolts (3) halfway up the drive shaft, above the exhaust pipe and crossmember. This is a pain on the 94, but easier on later models. The passenger shaft has two half shafts joined at the carrier. No retainer clip is used, so pull on the end of the shaft and it will come out. Iff the inner CV boot is puked, it will probably come out in two pieces. You may have to use a large screwdriver to pry the inner shaft out of the transaxle. The driver side does not use a carrier and will come out with a strong pull. It does use a retainer clip on the inside end of the driveshaft. You can get new driveshafts with cvs as an assembly at most auto parts stores Be sure the new driver side shaft has the new retainer clip on it. Assembly is reverse of dissassembly, but make sure to tighten everything up good.
Posted on Feb 26, 2010
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