I need to hook up the wireson my ignition switch on the column and dont have the plug where does each wire go

PART COLOR LOCATION 12 VOLT CONSTANT RED (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS STARTER YELLOW (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS STARTER 2 N/A IGNITION 1 PINK (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS IGNITION 2 WHITE (+), See NOTE #6 @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS IGNITION 3 N/A ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 ORANGE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A KEYSENSE LIGHT GREEN (-) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) WHITE (-) @ BCM, LIGHT BLUE plug, Pin A5, See NOTE #4 PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+) @ BCM, LIGHT BLUE Plug, Pin B6, See NOTE #4 POWER LOCK LIGHT BLUE (TYPE A) @ BCM, BROWN plug, Pin A4, See NOTE #4 POWER UNLOCK WHITE (TYPE A) @ BCM, BROWN Plug, Pin A3, See NOTE #4 DOOR TRIGGER See NOTE #2 @ BCM, See NOTE #4 DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION TAN (-) @ BCM, PURPLE Plug, Pin B4, See NOTE #4 TRUNK RELEASE N/A SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A HORN BLACK (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS TACH WHITE (AC) @ ECM, See NOTE *2 WAIT TO START LIGHT DARK BLUE (-), See NOTE #5 @ INSTRUMENT CLUSTER BRAKE WHITE (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL FACTORY ALARM DISARM LIGHT GREEN (-) @ BCM, PURPLE plug, Pin B3, See NOTE #4 ANTI-THEFT YELLOW (+), ORANGE/BLACK (-) and RED/WHITE (Not used) GM's PASSLOCK 2 System, these wires exit the Ignition Switch Tumbler together and are in the Main Ignition Switch Harness in the Column. EXTRA INFORMATION NOTE #1: This vehicle is equipped with the PASSLOCK 2 ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM and will require a 791 Bypass Module for Remote Starting, to order go to the SECURITY BYPASS MODULE Page on this website. NOTE #2: This vehicle has 2 door trigger wires, the DRIVERS DOOR is a TAN (-) PURPLE plug, B4 and ALL OTHER doors BLUE/WHITE (-) LIGHT BLUE plug, Pin B11 at the BCM use both Door Trigger wires and DIODE ISOLATE when connecting to an ALARM SYSTEM, to connect, See DIAGRAM. NOTE #3; The ECM (Engine Control Module) is located near the battery, down low, between the fender and the fan, under a BLACK plastic cover. On the 4.3L engine it is in a 20 pin connector labled RED. On the 4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L engines it is located at Pin 10 in the RED connector NOTE #4: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the drivers side of dash, with the plugs facing the rear of the vehicle. NOTE #5: when hooking up a remote starter, if you cannot get the (+) or (-) Wait to Start wire on the Remote Starter to work properly, you will then need to disconnect this wire and Program the Remote Starter for the 5, 10, 15 or 20 Second Wait to Start Timmer in the Installation manual. NOTE #6: IMPORTANT !!!!! this wire MUST BE CONNECTED as IGNITION #2 for REMOTE STARTING!!!!!!

Go on Google or Bing images with your truck details" 1992 Chevy Suburban ignition switch diagram" and all sorts pops up. Select the one which fixes you.

make sure to check the wiring on the trailer and to make sure that there is no damage or loose wireson the hook ups themselves. the wres could have come loose on your truck where they hook into the hook up for the trailer wiring. if any wire has come loose or the ground wire for the lights have come off, they will not work.

1
Disconnect the battery to prevent ignition short circuits. Lower the steering column by removing the 15 mm column mount bolts. The column will drop safely down and the steering wheel rest in the seat.


2
Place the trouble light in a secure area under the dash and locate the ignition switch. The switch will have two black connectors that should be snapped firmly in place. The switch is easily recognized by the wiring harness that will have larger orange and red wires than other connectors. These are the main power supply wires. Carefully unplug the two connectors. Do not confuse these connectors with the lighting connector. The lighting connector is much longer, flat and does not have any large, power wires.


3
Locate the small, round, dimmer switch with a rod going into it. Leave it plugged in, but disconnect the mounting screws. The ignition switch shares a mounting screw with the dimmer switch. Remove two additional mounting screws holding the ignition switch in place. Gently pry out the switch rod that runs the length of the column to the key and tumbler.


4
Install a new switch by fitting the activator rod, mounting the new ignition switch with the screws and plugging in the wiring harness. Install the dimmer switch with the shared screw. Remount the column, attach the battery cables, and check the repair by starting the vehicle.

I think you need to replace the wiper switch.
Removing the switch can be a pain.. Firstly, you need to remove the trim around the steering column. Now this may be difficult as you may need to remove the steering wheel first. This is complicated by the fact that you have Airbag on the wheel that must be disarmed properly by a tech...
Scared yet..? Don't be, ok if you can get the trims off, check and see if the switch is screwed into the column retainer. If you can see the screw heads by looking down the shaft of the switch, good, remove the screws and the switch should come out just enough for you to unlock the wiring, unlock the wiring taking note of which plugs go where and take the stalk out. If you cannot see any screws, then remove the steering wheel as it may all be one assembly. Once the wheel is off and the trims are off, there should be four screws holding the assembly onto the column. Once these are out and you have released the wiring, the switch assembly should come out. Next, look for the wires which go up inside the stalk itself and take note of where they connect. Now, on the end of the stalk, there should be a small cap which covers a clip which holds the switch onto the end of the stalk. Gently prise out the cap and the clip (dont lose either the cap or the clip) and draw the switch off the end of the stalk. If it is the type I am thinking of, the switch will come off and you can see the wiring into the switch. Now, gently give each wire a tug, that is, pull it back from the switch. If any of the wires seems to stretch, then replace that wire, crimp or solder a new length of wire to the switch and to the connection on the other end. If non of the wires stretch, pull them the other way, down to the main assembly and replace any that stretch.
Then, reassemble the switch and stalk, replace the trims and refit the steering wheel.
If you have an airbag in the steering wheel, you may need special screwdriver tips to remove the screws holding the steering wheel cover on, the nut holding the wheel on is under this cover. They usually use torx screws in here.
The steering wheel is fitted to a tapered shaft so leave the nut on a couple of threads and by placing both feet on the fllor behind the pedals and pulling, you can usually get the wheel off otherwise you may have to use a wheel puller. NEVER use a hammer on this assembly EVER !!!!
Once the airbag is off, dont turn the ignition on as this may set a fault code and cause the airbag lamp to come on disabling the airbag system. DONT probe any wires that have a yellow sheath or outer covering or yellow connectors on them. You really dont want an airbag going off anywhere near your head !!!
Take your time and if you need too, draw little pictures of where things went to remind you when you reassemble things.
Now, there is always the chance that you have a body control module, this means that when you operate a switch, all you are doing is sending a signal to a computer. This computer then operates the device. If this is the case then you need to check the switch ( yes I know this is a pain) but then you may need to check the control module as well. This may be better done by a professional.

I had a similar problem several years ago with my 1993 Dodge intrepid. None of the instruments on the dash would work. When this would happen the transmission would not shift past second gear. My heater blower was Not running all the time. What I found was the wiring harness to the ignition switch did not have enough slack in it. This was causing the ignition switch plug to randomly lose contact with the ignition switch. The first thing you need to do is remove the steering column covers. Put the tilt steering all the way up. Look under the steering column cover. There are 2 phillips head screws and 3 recessed T-10 torx tip screws that hold the 2 halves of the cover together and to the steering column. Remove all 5 screws. The handle used to tilt the steering wheel also has to be removed. You will need a T-30 torx tip to remove it. Now carefully remove the bottom half of the cover. The ignition switch wiring harness is under the steering column. I just reached in under the column and gently pulled on the harness until it had a little slack when I left go. Make sure the ignition switch plug is plugged in all the way. You might even want to unplug it and plug it back in several times just in case a slight film of corrosion has accumulated on any of the electrical terminals. This will help clean it off. You could also look inside the plug to make sure none of the terminals are bent or pushed part way out the back. I hope this solves your problem. Mine has not reoccurred in the 8 years since I did this.

You may have a bad connection on the Plug-in connectors at the Turn signal switch. What you will need to do is remove the plastic steering column cover and expose the Turn signal switch. The switch itself is called a MFS which means multifunctionswitch. Everything for the turn signals and wipers goes through this unit. On some models you have to remove the Ignition tumbler or even drop the steering column.

You may need to tighten the MFS to the column. There are several small female Torx bolts holding it tight. OR the connectors are loose on the wiring loom at the switch OR there is a broken wire which separates when the column moves. Be careful when uncoupling the connectors because you do not want to break the mounting tangs.

When you lose the turn signals, try engaging the Hazard button and see what works. Most likey nothing will, but in the Hazard mode you will be able to perform a wiggle test and once you find the bad connection in this mode everything should work when you get out of Hazard.

You still have a bare wire somewhere ... You probably did this already ... I would remove the wire from the ignition switch to the start solenoid and see what happens ...

Good luck on your search ...

Thanks for visiting FixYa.com

depnding on what type theft system you had? the usually split/ cut!! 2 wires going to the ignition switch on the column under the dash a red and orange and black wire just find those wires and find both ends i can assure you they are there and hook htem back to standard spec's it should start and run then

This is what it looks like to replace it....you decide on what your level of mechanical knowledge is. I hope this helps you!

Removal & Installation

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Remove the lower instrument cluster cover as follows:
   
   1. Remove the steering wheel. Refer to Section 8.
      
   2. Remove the 2 column cover screws and the cover.
      
   3. Remove the 9 cluster module mounting screws.
      
   4. Carefully pull the cluster module outward and disconnect the electrical connectors.
      
   5. Remove the ignition switch illumination bulb and remove the cluster module.
      
   6. Loosen the 2 cover hinge screws and the 6 upper cluster cover screws. Remove the cover.
      
   7. Remove the lower cluster cover panel.
      
3. Remove the lap duct and the defrost duct.
   
4. Remove the mounting nuts from the hinge bracket.
   
5. Remove the steering column upper mounting bolts/nuts and allow the steering column to hang down.
   
6. Remove the screw securing the ignition switch to the ignition switch housing.
   
7. Disconnect the 4 ignition switch snap connectors located to the left of the steering column.
   
8. Remove the protective looming from the ignition switch wires.
   
9. Note the position of each wire in the 4-terminal connector for installation reference. Disconnect the 2 wires (green wire and red wire/orange tracer) of the key-in warning buzzer at the 4-terminal connector by disengaging the tang with a paperclip or other suitable tool.
   

To install:

1. Connect the 2 wires of the key-in warning buzzer to the 4-terminal connector as follows:
   
   1. Align the flat side of the wire end with the grooved portion of the connector.
      
   2. Push the wire into the connector until the locking tang engages the end of the wire.
      
2. Install the protective looming around the ignition switch wires.
   
3. Connect the 4 snap electrical connectors of the ignition switch to their mating connectors, pushing together until the locking tangs are in place.
   
4. Install the ignition switch into the switch housing and secure it with the screw.
   
5. Raise the steering column into position. Install the upper bracket bolts and tighten to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
   
6. Install the cluster support nuts and tighten to 6.5-10 ft. lbs. (8.8-14 Nm). Install the hinge bracket nuts and tighten to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
   
7. Install the lap duct and defroster duct.
   
8. Install the lower cluster cover panel and the cluster cover.
   
9. Install the ignition switch illumination bulb. Connect the electrical connectors and install the cluster module with the attaching screws.
   
10. Install the column cover and the steering wheel.
    
11. Connect the negative battery cable and check ignition switch operation.
    

Ignition switch removal and installation—1989 Probe