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I have a new clutch, new pressure plate , new throw out bearing ,new slave cylinder, slaver cylinder is working perfect ,clutch pedal is working perfect, with clutch pedal engaged the wheels still move

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  • 28 Answers

If it's hydraulic, there is air in the system, if it's a cable, it's out if adjustment ! ( most proble cause)

Posted on Nov 18, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: 1990 wrangler all new slave cylinder, pressure

If you have had the flywheel cut, have a clutch with a different release height (different finger or diaphram design & height) or a remanufactured pressure plate, or all of the above, you may run into this problem.
Small differences there translate to a large difference at the pedal. On linkage type designs, there were several options including longer/shorter throwout bearing or adjustable fork pivot ball. Hydraulic systems should compensate somewhat, but if you are beyond the travel of the slave cyl, I'm not sure there is anything you can do from the outside. I would check that there are no air leaks. If you have an external slave cylinder you may be able to make a slightly longer rod that connects the slave to the clutch fork. I really can't think of anything else to do at this point.
Hope this helps a bit.

Posted on Apr 19, 2009

  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: clutch pedal stays 2 the floor on a hydralic

Did you bleed the system? When you replace the the master and/or slave cylinder you have to bleed the system just as you would with brakes. There is a bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Open the bleed screw, have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal down.Tighten the bleed screw, then release clutch. Repeat this procedure until you have removed all air from the system and the clutch pedal is firm. Keep an eye on the fluid level to avoid sucking air into the system. If you have done this, remember there is a possibility that the master or slave cylinder is defective.

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

  • 2187 Answers

SOURCE: clutch adjustment

Its either the clutch fluid is wrong or not at the correct levels or it has not been bled correctly.

Posted on Nov 30, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: New clutch won't work.

I too have a 2003 Ranger and am on my second clutch, master clyinder and slave cylinder at 90k miles. Assuming all parts are installed correctly I would check the slave cylinder next to the master in engine compartment--it is the small plastic resevoir. Don't bother trying to bleed as you are wasting your time. Remove rubber boot after removing cap and you will probably find a lack of fluid or dirt in bottom. It has a one way valve and once you **** in dirt and air it's all over. It comes primed with fluid from the factory--I belive the part is made in France. Also when you remove you will have to break plastic washer under dash which is worth about $.02, but Ford charges around $30--it connects linkage with master cylinder. Replace master and the washer and you will probably have clutch pedal and be able to engage gears.

Posted on Dec 22, 2009

Jta91
  • 99 Answers

SOURCE: Replacing the clutch on a 1998 Saturn SL1

It is very difficult for you to disengage the clutch by hand or with any leverage you can get outside the transmission. There is over 200 lbs of force clamping on the clutch disc.

If you replaced the clutch and took the slave cylinder out of the transmission without putting a brick under the clutch pedal or disconnecting the pivot arm from the pedal then you ruined the hydraulics. Buy a new PRE-BLED system from a local auto store. Generally this is the problem.

Either that or the clutch fork is bent or you installed the throwout bearing backwards (or simply fell off the fork which is not all that uncommon).

Posted on May 24, 2010

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Hi i just put a new master cylinder a month back now today my clutch felt hard and when i put it in reverse heard a broken sound clutch went flat and oil came from the master what can the problem be


Umm...

A mechanical 'breaking noise' doesn't sound good. It's hard to diagnose a problem online without being there to see/hear the vehicle. But .. it may be that your clutch pressure plate has broken/ release/throwout bearing has broken?

It's difficult to see why the master cylinder should leak - unless it was incorrectly fitted in the first place?

Just to check ... The master cylinder is in the engine bay/compartment and is where you top up with clutch fluid. When a master cylinder fails it usually results in no pressure at the clutch pedal, not a leak.

The clutch slave cylinder is the one that does all the work. When you press the pedal hydraulic pressure is sent from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder - which then pushes the release/throwout bearing against the clutch pressure plate and 'disconnects' the driven plate .. allowing you to change gear.

The slave cylinder is the one that does all the hard work - it is located somewhere where engine and gearbox mate together, usually at the bottom right/left. It's usually the one that fails/leaks. It's quite easy to replace..

I don't think it is anything to do with reverse gear. It's more to do with the clutch pedal being depressed - and, I would suspect - something has failed.

The link below is generic images of a clutch:
clutch diagram Google Search

Basically, a clutch is 3 parts. There's the 'pressure plate' which bolts onto your flywheel. The pressure plate is a 'spring'. You depress the clutch pedal and the release/throwout bearing presses onto the centre of the pressure plate causing the 'fingers' - the springs - to bend back and take pressure off the driven plate - which is the link - the drive - between engine and gearbox.

If you have a leak your clutch will not work. This causes a 'grinding/crashing' noise when you try to change gear. The first thing you should do is check where the leak is coming from and do something about it.

The 'noise' that you mention may be due to the fact that the gears are 'grinding' as they try to mesh together without the use of the clutch.

The first thing you should do is check why there's a leak. It's difficult to see why a new master cylinder is leaking unless it was incorrectly fitted and damaged (pipes incorrectly connected..).

If it's the slave cylinder that is leaking - replace it. Easy job.

If Master cylinder and slave cylinder are ok - you have to look at your clutch unit. A clutch is always replaced with 3 parts ... throwout bearing/pressure plate and driven disk.

May 04, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you bleed a slave cylinder when there is no clutch? Rebuilt all components. Found a leak in hydraulic system of clutch release cylinder. No pedal at all. What do I do?


how did you find a leak in the clutch if there is none should have went to a mechanic in the first place sounds like .

Mar 11, 2015 | 1993 Mazda MX-3

1 Answer

Clutch not engaging


Well, it would shift easily with engine off, because the transmission input shaft is not turning. Engine running and clutch engaging good, the input shaft would again be stationary and allow smooth shifting.
What you have to determine is if the clutch disc or pressure plate is bad (a new clutch is needed), or if the pedal hydraulic system has a malfunction. When you push the pedal down, a rod from the top of pedal pushes into the clutch master cylinder bolted to the firewall under the hood. This cylinder has a reservoir filled with brake fluid. When the rod forces fluid from the clutch master down a steel line and into the clutch slave cylinder down on the transmission bell housing, the hydraulic pressure forces a plunger from the slave cylinder to extend and push the clutch fork lever a small amount, enough to force the clutch release bearing (aka throw-out bearing) against the pressure plate. This relieves pressure on the clutch disc and input shaft becomes stationary for easy shifting.

Jul 26, 2013 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Manuel trans shifter tough too shift


if you getting a good pressure from the clutch pedal, change out the shifter bushing, that will help some. if you get a poor pressure from the clutch pedal, pressure plate has weaken, need to change out you pressure plate, throw out bearing, since your in the clutch system i would change out the pad also. Old vehicle and high miles, heavy trucks, its common. also check the slave cylinder, make sure it good working operations. worn rubber seal inside slave cylinder will cause a blow-by when press down the pedal therefore, causing to have a weak clutch pedal and hard to shift/engage into gear, same way goes for weak pressure plate. Good luck!!

Nov 09, 2011 | 1994 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Replaced master cylinder in clutch in an attempt to stop the car sticking in gear and moving when foot taken of brake. It still moves while the clutch is still depressed and needs brake to stop...


Sounds like a worn-out clutch plate or broken/damaged throw-out bearing or pressure plate. You need to replace the clutch - including the pressure plate, throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, and I also recommend a new slave cylinder. (Especially since you have allready replaced the master cylinder.) You may want to weigh the pros and cons of having your flywheel machined or just replacing it with a "Remanufactured " flywheel.

Mar 13, 2011 | Volkswagen Golf Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Manual Transmition, While driving the clutch pedal went right to the floo and stayed down. I lifted the pedal with my foot and with a light touch i pushed down on the pedal and it it began a grinding sound...


the slave cylinder on the trans works just like a brake cylinder, when fluid pressure is applied it flows into the cylinder and pushes against a clutch fork which engages a throw out bearing against the clutch pressure plate fingers. a couple things could have happened. I think your trans is fine but im sure the clutch fork or the pressure plate broke. I'm sorry but the trans is gonna have to be pulled. best wishes

Feb 03, 2011 | 2000 Isuzu Trooper

2 Answers

Clutch pedal does not engage clutch


You may have an issue with the slave cylinder. when the slave cylinder is shot or damaged it does not engage the throw out bearing which in turn engages the pressure plate to the clutch plate.

Jan 28, 2011 | 1989 Ford F 150

4 Answers

The clutch pedal is rock hard won't go in too gear checked the clutch master cylinder and thats ok, so do you know what the problem is.


Possible solution! Daewoo Lanos 98-99
Had the same problem suddenly the clutch pedal went rock hard!
The clutch was around 3 months old.
Mechanic checked - Master, Slave, Clutch Components, and inside the box, all looked okay.
Turned out the top arm of the clutch pivot rod had twisted, replaced pivot rod around AU$100.
Fixed Problem!

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Apr 16, 2010 | 2004 Land Rover Discovery

2 Answers

Clutch slipping when it get hot


Check the adjustment of the clutch push rod. It is the rod that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder.

Dec 22, 2008 | 1992 Isuzu Amigo

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