Question about Cars & Trucks
If it's hydraulic, there is air in the system, if it's a cable, it's out if adjustment ! ( most proble cause)
Posted on Nov 18, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you have had the flywheel cut, have a clutch with a different release height (different finger or diaphram design & height) or a remanufactured pressure plate, or all of the above, you may run into this problem.
Small differences there translate to a large difference at the pedal. On linkage type designs, there were several options including longer/shorter throwout bearing or adjustable fork pivot ball. Hydraulic systems should compensate somewhat, but if you are beyond the travel of the slave cyl, I'm not sure there is anything you can do from the outside. I would check that there are no air leaks. If you have an external slave cylinder you may be able to make a slightly longer rod that connects the slave to the clutch fork. I really can't think of anything else to do at this point.
Hope this helps a bit.
Posted on Apr 19, 2009
Did you bleed the system? When you replace the the master and/or slave cylinder you have to bleed the system just as you would with brakes. There is a bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Open the bleed screw, have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal down.Tighten the bleed screw, then release clutch. Repeat this procedure until you have removed all air from the system and the clutch pedal is firm. Keep an eye on the fluid level to avoid sucking air into the system. If you have done this, remember there is a possibility that the master or slave cylinder is defective.
Posted on Sep 06, 2009
SOURCE: New clutch won't work.
I too have a 2003 Ranger and am on my second clutch, master clyinder and slave cylinder at 90k miles. Assuming all parts are installed correctly I would check the slave cylinder next to the master in engine compartment--it is the small plastic resevoir. Don't bother trying to bleed as you are wasting your time. Remove rubber boot after removing cap and you will probably find a lack of fluid or dirt in bottom. It has a one way valve and once you **** in dirt and air it's all over. It comes primed with fluid from the factory--I belive the part is made in France. Also when you remove you will have to break plastic washer under dash which is worth about $.02, but Ford charges around $30--it connects linkage with master cylinder. Replace master and the washer and you will probably have clutch pedal and be able to engage gears.
Posted on Dec 22, 2009
It is very difficult for you to disengage the clutch by hand or with any leverage you can get outside the transmission. There is over 200 lbs of force clamping on the clutch disc.
If you replaced the clutch and took the slave cylinder out of the transmission without putting a brick under the clutch pedal or disconnecting the pivot arm from the pedal then you ruined the hydraulics. Buy a new PRE-BLED system from a local auto store. Generally this is the problem.
Either that or the clutch fork is bent or you installed the throwout bearing backwards (or simply fell off the fork which is not all that uncommon).
Posted on May 24, 2010
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