Question about Mitsubishi Lancer

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Advice required re: Manual Gearbox Problem - Clutch drag symptoms when changing from 1st to 2nd gear.

I have a 2006 Lancer ES. I had a replacement used gearbox fitted some months ago by a nationwide company. Cost $2,600. Soon found that it was difficult to get into 1st gear, particularly in the morning. Also found that when changing from 1st to 2nd that gears grated as if clutch not depressing fully. The only way to avoid this was to stop midway briefly between the two gears in double declutch fashion. After various returns to the workshop, the workshop ultimately deemed there was a problem within the gearbox, so took the car in for a week, during which time they (alledgedly) sent for and installed another gearbox. I drove the car for a while, and pretty soon determined that the problem between 1st and 2nd gear was still there. Further diagnosis was carried out over several days, and I was told the problem wasnt within the gearbox area at all, but was to do with the linkage from the gearstick which was accessed from within the car. They said they greased an area, adjusted cables etc, and that should do the trick. It was quite good for a while, but the symptoms of crashing the gears between 1st and 2nd is coming back, as are the original symptoms of it being hard to get into gear when starting in the mornings. My question is: Do you think this problem is one that could be remedied through the floor of the car (which didnt work)? I cant be totally sure a second gearbox was fitted of course, so it could be they're trying to work with the first replacement! Any advice as to what this might be would be appreciated, so that I can understand to a degree what they try to tell me when I take the car back again. It is under warrenty for a little longer.

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  • Peter Colwell
    Peter Colwell Nov 19, 2014

    Bill, just a couple of points of clarification..

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Problems with a clutch system will result in grating first gear or reverse gear as the input shaft is still being turned by the engine. 2nd gear is syncro operated so any mismatching of gear speeds will be overcome by the syncro ring of the gears. By double de clutching you state that the problem is eased somewhat and this indicates that the gear box is at fault ( shaft bearings, syncro rings, gear teeth ) hard movement of the gear lever would indicate failed gear cable ,linkage or gear lever pivot problems. What you describe is a gear box fault. I would take it back and tell them to fix it or exchange it . Keep all records of conversations and dealings as you may have to get legal help to have the shop full their warranty agreement. Time to remove ,repair and replace a gear box would not exceed 12 hours in an accredited shop

Posted on Nov 18, 2014

  • 3 more comments 
  • Peter Colwell
    Peter Colwell Nov 19, 2014

    Bill, I should highlight that the workshop (Brakes Plus) insist that they have already put in a second gearbox, and that there would be little chance that this one would have the exact same fault. I take it that couldnt be ruled out if this is a common fault with this gearbox. I should highlight that this 'crashing' between 1 & 2 is worse in the morning when the engine is cold. Non-the-less the gears grate if I dont pause midway with the stick, or double de clutch. You still feel this is undoubtedly the gearbox? (Please dont misunderstand me.)

  • Bill Boyd Nov 19, 2014

    crashing 2nd gear may be from too rapid gear change procedure but if that is your style of driving then the problem would have been in the original box. Gear oil that is too heavy may add to the problem asit prevents the synchro ring from adjusting the 2nd gear dog speed to allow smooth gear transfer. To explain Syncros work by a spring wire clip inside the gear taper that is pressed on the opposing cone and starts to spin up the gear. with continual movement the cones lock up and the teeth of the gears match and engage. If the oil is too heavy(90-140EPW) then the spring ring does not get a chance to start work and the oil stays between the cone surfaces and causes then to slip This does not allow smooth locking of the gear s and so they will grind. Most modern boxes run 80-90 mineral oil to overcome this slipping action. IF you are observant then you will notice that there are times when you will have your foot on the clutch and on starting the engine you will have difficulty getting the gear lever to move into gear . releasing the clutch or trying several times and suddenly the lever goes into gear. That is effect the synchros and cones not lining up the gear teeth (dog teeth) to allow gear engagement Same thing but the oil is preventing the syncro operation. Suggestion change the oil to a lower viscosity gearbox oil but if that will not fix it then you will have to suspect that the box was not worked on

  • Peter Colwell
    Peter Colwell Nov 19, 2014

    I had to laugh at your first line Bill: "too rapid gear change procedure" I'm 70 and I'm english, and still occasionaly forget to drive on the wrong side of the road! (only kidding!) You have been extremely helpfull. Just one last point: I take it from the symptoms described that this rules out any stickshift or cable problems?

  • Bill Boyd Nov 19, 2014

    To help put your mind at rest go on the web-type in syncro ring operstaion in manual gear box and open the manual transmission transmission-wikipedia (hoerbiger.com is also good -next page after wikipidea)and any other page that refers to syncro operation. next point problems with cables ,linkages,lever pivot points,shift rails will indicate as hard to move gear lever and not grinding gears

  • Bill Boyd Nov 19, 2014

    I have just read the syncro for the hoebiger page and in the pdf read out there is a section-shift quality-clash reason listed are C.O.F too low for design layout,C.O.F changes over lifetime= degradiation of lining or oil, oil viscosity too high at low temperature= cold clash,high wear=loss of wear gap. Notice that viscosity gets a mention. On reading the pdf print out besides the oil viscosity it points to a worn out box and this can be from poor engineering in the first place or torque loads originally excessive for the design of the box and engine torque specs. Anyway have a good read of the material as you will be able to argue with the mechanics ,confident in the knowledge that you will probably know more than they do. After all they work in brakes and clutches ,not gearboxes.

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