Rear suspeion noise,after getting new tyres shocks with all new seats top mount,sway bar links ,bushes plus,new wheel bearings,and alignment, and now I have looked at all control arms x4 control arms
I think I wont tell petters suspension about the noise I'll just take advantage of there $28 suspension check and c what they find,I heard of people taking there car there and saying its got a noise at the back and before she new it she had replaced all bushings plus shocks and $400 later still had the problem,so I think this might be the way to go,unless u have a diagnose for it,I looked at most common problem with the Hyundai accent 2000 suspension.like once my car started to splatter I looked up most common with this problem and it said ignition leads and spot on they were,anyway hope to hear a thought
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Re: rear suspeion noise,after getting new tyres shocks...
Could be a loose exhaust bracket or fuel tank strap. Noises like that are hard to trace. You could also remove the back insulation, carpeting etc. and see if you can hear where its coming from better. Take it out on a rough road and see if you can feel any handling issues.
Testimonial: "Thanks ,I did find a loose tank strap,I took the whole entire back seat ,but its like a bushing has hit steel,only when I go over a bump,sounds like the shocks arnt tight but I torqued everything to spec,all bushings look good no movement ,and it sounds like its both sides, so I am thinking rear 4 control arms if it was trailing arms I don't think they both would go at same time,I have brought new trailing arm and control arm bushings now I need to by a press $129 for 12 tone press and to take them to get pressed $100 for all but I don't have any way of this option as only 1 car.any thoughts on my idea,s any tip on pressing the bus hinge as they have steel center guide"
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What noise? And year and make of car? A clicking noise on turns is a worn CV joint on the axle shafts. A grinding noise at one of the wheels could be a wheel bearing. Worn brake pads may cause squealing, screeching other high pitched noise.
2003? original shocks,I assume. Could be a loose shock bolt,loose sway bar bushing or end link bushing Is the tail pipe touching the frame? When it cools,wiggle the tail pipe forcefully up and down. Crawl under there and inspect both rear shock absorber mounts and sway bar bushings and mounting bolts. if it LOOKS good,have someone bounce the rear of the truck when you are nearby. Hear the noise? left side or right side?
I would get a second opinion to compare physical inspection results. The wheel bearing is most urgent, as are control arm bushings.
Sound can transmit from one end of the car to the other, but the noise was heard in the rear and the balljoints are in the front.
The sway bar and its' bushings can make a noise. You will get body lean on turns with worn components, and some rear drive models have links which can break and detach.
You need to identify the Car Brand and model so the Experts know what you may have for components.
As you may have noticed, I have not said much about shocks. If you have shocks and not struts, there are different priorities. If either is leaking, the priority increases. Some strut towers have a bearing ring and when worn out, can be a safety issue. Shocks fit inside control arms and do not have a bearing ring. Rear suspensions vary, some use control arms on multilink types, others use a rear axle with springs.
But get the wheel bearing fixed. Have tierod ends checked. The guy under the car will have a better idea of its physical condition than what we can tell online.
Were you towed recently, or any damage? The rear ends of these cars are notorious for going out of alignment. Check bushings, sway bar links, wheel bearings for play, etc. any more info you give me can help me narrow it down.. Thanks, Dean
To access the upper control arm,
remove the shock absorber and the strut bar. Also, disconnect the sway
bar from the lower control arm, if your particular Ram model is equipped
with it. After that, you can hold the coil spring in place with a
Secure the wheel hub assembly to the chassis using a wire before you
disconnect the upper ball joint. This will prevent damage to the brake
hose. When ready, release the ball joint using a ball-stud loosening
tool (see Resources).
The upper control arm mounts to the chassis with a cam bolt assembly.
Once removed, you can place the control arm on a vise and remove the
bushings using a bushing service tool (see Resources). When installing
the new bushings, do not use any lubricant but make sure the flange on
the bushing end seats properly on the arm bore. Then re-install the
upper control arm. When finished, take your Dodge vehicle to a good shop
to align the front suspension.
Lower Control Arm Bushings
Remove the shock absorber and
strut bar. If your particular model is equipped with a sway bar,
disconnect it from the lower control arm.
Secure the coil spring with a spring compressor and release the lower
ball joint from the wheel/hub assembly using a ball stud loosening tool
Now you can release the lower control arm by removing the rear
mounting bolts. Remove the bushings with a bushing service tool (see
Resources). When installing the new bushings, do not use lubricant and
make sure they seat properly on the control arm bore. Then replace the
lower control arm. When finished, take your Dodge vehicle to a good shop
to align the front suspension
first of all, since you are using adjustable suspension you should make sure the spring is captive in the shock absorber. Lift the rear of the vehicle and support the car on the body, allowing the rear wheels to hang down. See if the spring can easily be moved. If it can. then likely the spring has sagged, or it is incorrect for the shock absorber.
If not, while you are there check that the top hat of the strut is tight by lifting the wheel and strut assembly by hand. If you get any movement in the top of the strut, there will be a loud noise while going over bumps.
Another area to check are the stabiliser arm/sway bar bushes.
Mounted to the body you will see a bar that goes left to right, connecting to the struts with small link arms.
Try to move this bar up and down against the body, paying attention to the rubber bushes where it meets the body. If there is movement in the bushes, there will be banging sounds when going over rough surfaces or bumps. Also check the small link arms for looseness or play.
i have the exact same problem ive got 2001 honda civic and have an annoying rattle from the wheel area. i have replaced cv joint, ball joint, sway bar drop links, strut, and suspension bushing and arm....but still rattle noise is there. dnt have a clue what it could be, from looking on the internet i have found few possibilities.....lower control arm/bushin...motor mounts....gear box mounts....strut rod bushing....axle....inner/outer cv joint....calliper pins......shock/shock bushing...or wheel bearing. im hoping tio get all this checked out its got to be able to be fixed somehow!