Question about Cars & Trucks
This vehicle was towed from the side of the freeway. sat in impound for six months then towed to our place. where do i start
First thing is to check/replace the battery. Then make sure fuel is OK. Look out for rotted tires. And check the inside for rodents or other pests. Good Luck..
Posted on Nov 21, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the engine is 2.5l 4 cylinder it is not electrically controlled (3 speed), though it does have a speed sensor, it controls engine idle only. Only the 3.0l V6's are (4 speed) and are notoriously failure prone. Change the fluid and filter for starter's, use Chrysler trans fluid. If you have the 3 speed, I assume you do, you likely have a corrosion seizure which may break itself free after some use. Just take it easy and see if it comes loose by itself.
Posted on Oct 08, 2008
you have a egr system problem, most likely an oxy sensor. also check the intake sensors as they will corrode easily when let set without starting for awhile, this is why any mechanic will tell you to start a car daily and let it idle for a few minutes. (if it is a daily driver in your position)
Posted on Jan 21, 2010
SOURCE: My 98 Audi a4 quattro
The Engine Control Module (ECM) and Transmission Control Module (TCM) can only be accessed using diagnostic equipment (e.g.: VAS, VAG-COM, Bosch KTS, Texa, ...) connected to the data link connector of the car, in order to pull out all DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) memored. Then you will be full informed about pieces out of order, and you will be able to repair damages & replace bad pieces. Therefore you will can erase all faults memored, and reset ECM & TCM. Finally you will start the engine and test the car. If you will send me the engine type, I will can send you back the fuel pump fuse & relay positions, for cheking them, and also all supplementary informations that you need.
Posted on Dec 03, 2010
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This is how your problem is solved in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter or water in the fuel tank.
My second area of concern would be the manifold pressure sensor which is loctated under the hood, center, rear engine area, above valve cover, mounted in bracket. However, you must remember that these nothing more than starting points and not guaranteed solutions.
First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.
For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.
Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.
Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.
The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner www.repairpath.com
All the best
Posted on Jun 15, 2011
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