Question about Cars & Trucks
Have a diagnostics run on the car. That will yell you which sensor or other parts are misbehaving.
Posted on Nov 17, 2014
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Have the alternator tested. You are providing a low charge to the battery when you jump it and when taking it above 2K RPM requires more amperage resulting in the engine dying and the rough idle
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
SOURCE: 2004 Chevy Silverado HD 2500
On many engines with distributor less ignition systems and sequential fuel injection, a camshaft position sensor is used to keep the engine's control module informed about the relative position of the crankshaft. By monitoring cam position (which allows the control module to determine when the intake and exhaust valves are opening and closing), the control module can use the cam position sensor's input along with that from the crankshaft position sensor to determine which cylinder in the engine's firing sequence is approaching top dead center. This information is then used by the engine control module to synchronize the pulsing of sequential fuel injectors so they match the firing order of the engine. On some applications, input from the camshaft position sensor is also required for ignition timing.
The camshaft position sensor may be magnetic or Hall effect, and mounted on the timing cover over the camshaft gear, on the end of the cylinder head in an overhead cam application, or in a special housing that replaces the distributor (in the case of some of the GM applications). Operation and diagnosis is essentially the same as that for a crankshaft position sensor.
Re check the wire harness and the sensor installation to the camshaft sensor in Bank #1 which is where the #1 cylinder is. Good luck and hope this adds some light to you question, keep me posted and be glad to help.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
SOURCE: high idel
You may have a bad control valve or regulator. Did you adjust the idle properly?
1. Disconnect the connector on top
2. Adjust idle to around 650-700k rpm
3. Reconnect the electrical connection
After reconnecting, the idle should jump up around 700-750k rpm.
The idle screw is fail safe setting in case the ecu cannot set the idle. The rpm's set by the idle screw are supposed to be below the ecu/stock idle.
If this doesn't work, you may have a dirty or bad Idle Air Adjuster and/or Air Regulator. For information on cleaning that, you can refer to this page http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/157335.html
You can test the IAA by supplying power to the plug with the car off. Listen for any clicks or humming. That will signify that it still may be working but is possibly stuck. The Air Regulator is for high idle for warming up your car. It has a bi-metal spring inside that rotates a disc closing off an airway to bring idle to normal after a couple minutes. If it dies it will stay open and give you permanent high idle. If it gets clogged usually no high idle for warm up.
You can remove it and peer through the end. If you see a thin sliver of light, it's open. Connect 12 volts + & -, wait a few minutes and see if it's now closed. If not, it's likely dead. It can be opened and cleaned if that's the issue.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 21, 2017 | Cars & Trucks
Nov 04, 2014 | 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Truck
Mar 31, 2014 | 2004 Chrysler Pacifica
Jan 07, 2013 | 2004 Chrysler Pacifica
Dec 02, 2012 | 1999 Saturn SL
Aug 08, 2011 | 1997 Ford Escort
Jun 24, 2011 | 1993 Chevrolet Suburban
May 23, 2010 | 1993 Honda Accord
34 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!