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Driving home car cut off ,started it back up now I have to push the peddle al the to floor got car tested ,thottle position sensor. ? Is this going to be the only problem and do this sensor have a fu

Don't want to be spending the wrong money and that's not the only problem feel my pain

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  • Jeremy W.
    Jeremy W. Nov 16, 2014

    Hi ACE WILLIAMS, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box? A Year, Make, Model, and Engine Size would be fantastic!

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  • 17 Answers

Cleaning the throttle body and the position sensor may fix your problem . Changing the sensor is pretty straight forward and simple but I would get a can if carb cleaner and a tooth brush and clean it first

Posted on Nov 26, 2014

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: engine cutting off while driving

I almost guarantee the problem is one of 2 things or like in my case a combination of 2 things.

I had the exact same problem and you'll be happy to know the fix is relatively inexpensive.

At the left side of your engine when your are looking at it with the hood up there is a small sensor called a CAM SHAFT POSITION SENSOR, it screws into the left lower side of the engine, its price ranges between 40-50 dollars for an aftermarket one! dont go Genuine Nissan it will be more pricey! and really for what it does there is no difference!

First try replacing just the Sensor first and if it continues leave the new sensor in and also replace the MAF (MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR) you can also find this at a scrap yard for 50-60 dollars

I bet once your car shuts off while driving it takes a while to cool off before it starts right back up again! If you are getting a constant crank! but no Fire.............that would explain why the Camshaft Position sensor should be replaced! As far as the Cutting out while driving that usually is the sign of a faulty or burnt out MAF or Mass Air Flow Sensor.

I changed both these on my car and its been smooth sailing ever since! you Said 250,000! thats nothing im sure you'll get 200,000 More..........This is an excellent year for Nissan and many of these cars make it too 350,000 and in some cases 500,000 (ive seen a few)

If you change your oil regularly and keep up on all the little knicks and Knacks from wear and tear the award winning VQ engine will last you as long as you want it too!

Hope that helped!

Posted on Nov 12, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: No passing gear

My car did (past tense) the same thing. The service engine light is flashing until you let off the gas because raw fuel is being dumped into the catalytic converter. The transmission won't shift because the converter is plugged. When you push the pedal to the floor the transmission computer holds the transmission in gear. Meanwhile the engine computer is raising the rpms. It will seem like a transmission problem but it is more likely a plugged catalytic converter. I had converter changed. The engine has A LOT more power, great acceleration and the transmission shifts perfectly.

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

shocktroop40
  • 155 Answers

SOURCE: grinding under car while driving - brakes dont work HELP!!!!!!!

Wow, you have a few problems there. The grinding sounds like a driveline problem. Does the grinding get worse or louder as you increase speed? That grinding could be coming from a number of places. Everything from a universal joint on the driveshaft to the transfer case. Try shifting from 2WD to 4HI. Does the truck go into 4HI? If it does, shift to neutral, and put it back into 2WD. Sometimes the actuator for the 4WD can get stuck. If that doesnt work, can you try to pinpoint exactly where the noise is? I know that sounds hard, and I saw where you wrote you can feel it under your feet. Is it everywhere though? Can you feel it in the steering wheel, for example?
As for the brakes, are they always that hard to stop? Or is it after the grinding starts? Is either the brake or ABS lights on on the dash? Does the pedal feel mushy or very hard? A mushy pedal usually means a bad master cylinder, while a very hard pedal usually means a bad power brake booster. I'll be honest with you, none of what you described sounds cheap, regardless of where you take the truck to get looked at. They are most likely going to charge you for a few hours of diagnostic time just to figure out whats wrong. Thats why I asked if you could try to narrow down exactly where the noise is coming from. Theres a better than average chance your going to get ripped off, simply because it's not clear and obvious what the problem is. Do you know anyone who has any knowledge of cars? If so, take them for a ride and let them hear it. 2 heads are always better than one. If you can think of anything else, let me know, and I'll be glad to try and be of more help.

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

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SOURCE: clutch pedal went to the floor but did not come

there is a plastic clip that connects the clutch pedal to the rod that goes to the master cylinder, chances are that it let go. Bad thing is that it is only available from GM along with the rod. It is around 50

Posted on Oct 24, 2009

sourav007
  • 297 Answers

SOURCE: ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON WHILE DRIVING MERCEDES BENZ

The check engine light comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to AutoZone or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

A flashing check engine light is an indication of a severe misfire or problem that is likely to harm your engine. Immediate diagnosis and service is needed.

Some specific causes for the light to be on are:

Gas cap left off, not tightened, not installed correctly, or needs to be replaced

02 sensor

Engine misfire - error might clear itself after 3 complete warm-up cycles; not restarts, but warm-ups

At start up for a bulb check - Should not stay on

Problem in the emission system, including clogged exhaust or the catalytic converter not functioning properly

Dirty/clogged air filter

Dirty MAF sensor

Posted on Jan 08, 2010

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