Question about Lincoln LS
V-8. Sporadically over heats. Had every part pertaining to this problem replaced at least twice including thermostat,pump,fan,reservoir, etc
If your engine shut itself off when it was overheating then you, have internal damage to your engine. It will have to be taken apart by someone who is knowledgeable about this problem. I would suggest either the dealer or an engine rebuild shop.My suspicions would be warped heads, bad head gaskets, possible seized wrist pins or scoured bearings.You will not be able to repair it by bolting on new parts. You also won't be able to accuratly diagnose the problem without at least partial disassembly.
Posted on Nov 15, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sometimes a vacuum leak can cause the engine to run lean and hot, Have Auto Zone run a free code check on the car to search for a stored trouble codes this may help.
Posted on Jul 15, 2009
When the car is completely cool,check the electric fan(s) for smooth rotation.
Clean/check/change the thermo sensor,contact and wire.
Excavate air pocket in coolant system / check for head gasket leak
This test will kill two birds with one stone.
MAKE SURE THE COOLANT SYSTEM and ENGINE IS COLD!
RAN THIS TEST IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA ONLY!
You will spill some coolant during this air pocket purge test.......BE KIND TO THE ENVIRONMENT and ANIMAL please clean up after the test!
Put the front end on a pair of ramp or park your car on a VERY STEEP HILL (radiator facing top of the hill) .
Top of the coolant reserve tank
Let it ran for 10-15 minutes.
Monitor for air pockets escaping from coolant reserve tank.
Small amount of bubbles is OK at 1-5 minute mark
After the thermostat open up (after 195 F warm up) at
5-12 minute mark or after high idle you should see less bubbles.
If you do not see any in rush of bubbles then your thermostat may be partially stuck or rusted badly inside the thermostat hosing.
Give the thermostat host few gentle taps.
If you see larger bubbles surfacing after 15 minutes then should do a hydrocarbon (HC) dye test to test for potential head gasket leak.
Let engine cold down and top off coolant reserve tank.
Start monitor for coolant lost
A coolant flush is require every 2 years or 24,000 miles.
I recommend the thermostat that has a relief pop-let to reduce the change of burst radiator and coolant hoses.
Make sure you get a new thermostat gasket,black RTV and fresh coolant for the job.
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Posted on Dec 05, 2009
Testimonial: "thanks it actually stopped overheating on its own after letting it set for 3 months"
About the only thing left is the radiator. First, and cheapest, is have your radiator cap checked to ensure it is holding to the pressure spec for your car. It may just be cheaper to repalce the cap.
Check the radiator hoses for leaks or kinks.
The core may be plugged and in need of a flush...
Sometimes it's hard to tell if a radiator has enough flow. Here's a couple of quick tests. Although they're not as good as removing the radiator and flow checking it with a machine at the radiator shop, they can be done on the car and are fairly easy.
Feel the radiator fins as the engine warms up. As the thermostat opens, the entire radiator should start to get warm .WATCH OUT FOR THAT FAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If only part of the radiator gets warm, it may be clogged in the cold areas.
Remove the radiator cap with the engine cold. Squeeze the top radiator hose to get a "feel" of how it squeezes under zero pressure. When the thermostat opens and you can see the coolant circulate, replace the cap and IMMEDIATELY rev the engine up (3000 RPM or so) while squeezing the top radiator hose. The hose should remain fairly easy to squeeze. With a clogged radiator, you can actually feel the hose "stiffen up" and get hard to squeeze as the engine speed increases.
HOW TO FLUSH YOUR COOLING SYSTEM
The best flushes are two part: a strong acid and a neutralizer. The one part flushes aren't as strong. The strong flushes get rid of more scale and deposits, but you run the risk of 'eating through" the extremely thin and cheap radiators and heater cores they have today.
Prestone and others make a "backflush adapter" which fits in a heater hose and accepts a garden hose.
No matter how you do it, I'd replace both the top and bottom hoses, bypass and heater hoses, and possibly the thermostat.
When you remove the bottom hose almost all the coolant will drain out of the system. You really shouldn't just dump this coolant: be a little "green" and at least pour it down a drain so the wastewater treatment plant can deal with it before it gets in the groundwater!. The best is to go to your regular mechanic and let him put it in his coolant recycling tank. Mechanics are required by law to have one.
Fill the system with water. If you decide to use flush, add it at this time. Start the engine and let it warm up. It might be necessary to hold your hand over the radiator filler while squeezing the top hose: the thermostat will be closed and may keep the water from circulating. If no water touches the thermostat, it WILL NOT OPEN AND OVER HEAT YOUR VEHICLE!!! I always drill an 1/16 inch hole in the flange of a thermostat to keep it from "air locking" like that: the better thermostats already have a bypass hole for this purpose.
Once it is warm, follow the can directions regarding the flush, if you use it. If you aren't using flush, skip these next few steps.
If iut's a 2 part flush, remove the bottom hose or open the radiator drain **** if it has one. (the drain **** will usually be on the opposite side from the bottom hose inlet on the rad. After it drains, replace the bottom hose and refill the system as outlined above. After it has been refilled, remove the top hose. Get a piece of pipe that fits either over or inside the top hose: this will make this step a lot neater.
Put a hose in the radiator filler and turn it on. Run the engine. Fresh water is being added by you via the radiator, the water in the engine is being pumped out of the top hose. Run water through it until the water exiting the top hose runs clear.
Re-attach the top hose and add the neutralizer, if a 2 part flush. Drain and repeat both of the above steps to remove the neutralizer from the system. If a one part flush, as soon as the water runs clear you are ready for coolant. Drain the system as outlined above.
Reattach all hoses, put in the antifreeze first. Complete the fill with water.
Posted on Dec 12, 2009
You need a scanner to diagnose,not a code reader.
The DATC Module ( Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module) is a possible
Posted on May 24, 2010
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