Question about 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Unfortunately JEEP is notorious for bad heater cores. Most people, when the core goes bad, bypass it by looping the heater hoses to simply recirculate the warm coolant back to the water pump instead of replacing the core. To replace the core requires disassembly of the dash, at a shop the price is several hundred dollars in labor to change out a $35 part. If you bought the jeep used? this is what I would look for first.
Posted on Nov 14, 2014
There are two systems to evaluate.
Posted on Nov 14, 2014
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
At least you have the 4 liter 6. Once you get all the **** out of the way its like replacing a W/P on an "old school" engine, very much like a Ford or Chevy straight 6. 1) Remove radiator top retainer (the metal U that looks like its the top of the radiator (#13 or 14mm sockets I think). 2) To completely get if off you also have to remove the grill (4-6 phillips screws), then 3) unbolt it from the tubular bumper retainers underneath the grill. 4) DO NOT remove the latch cable - no need. 5) Remove the top bolts holding down the fan shroud. Lift the shroud off its bottom "tabs" and push over the fan. 6) Using #10mm socket remove fan from fan clutch, then remove bolts holding fan clutch onto water pump pulley. 7) Pull out shroud, then fan, then fan clutch. Be very patient, lots of wiggling may be needed. 8) Locate belt tensioner on idler puller below the Power steering pump. Losen very little the pulleys center bolt (10mm), then use a 10mm w/entension to losen the pulley's tension (use counter clockwise/normal rotation to losen). 9) Draw a diagram of the belt routing - you will Never remember it correctly otherwise. 10) Tap the w/p pully and pull if off - do not hit radiator fins! 11) Drain the radiator (clockwise/right rotation opens petoc from factory radiators - counterclock used on aftermaket rads). 12) Remove lower raditor hose at radiator, then at pump (it will be a challenge). 13) Remove upper radiator hose from rad and from thermostat housing. 14) losen the Rubber heater hose from the metal hose screwed into the W/P. 15) Remove 4 bolts from W/P (13 or 14mm I think). The one at the 4oclock position is longer than the others. One is hidden at 6oclock.
16) Remove 2 bolts (14-15mm??) on bottom of Power Steering mount - these go through the W/P case to the block. You may also need to losen the top PS bolts so the PS Bracket can be loose at the W/P case. 17) Wiggle the W/P out from under the PS bracket. and pull off. (16b if needed, remove the upper idler pulley near the A/C unit.) 18) Remove the Thermostat (upper hose return) housing. Scrape off old gasket. Replace with 160deg or 190deg thermostat. Use silicone on gasket. 19) Carefully use a 17 or 19mm box wrench to remove the metal heater hose return line from the upper part of the old water pump. Coat threads with spark plug thread antiseize and screw onto new W/P. 20) Install new W/P gasket w/silcone, be careful to Not block the water holes. 21) Slide W/P under the P/S bracket and jiggle into place. Hand thread one of the top bolts to hold the W/P in place. 22) Insert the P/S bracket bolts and lightly tighten. 23) Jiggle W/P around and insert other bolts, start with the 6oc hidden bolt. Add remaining bolts and tighten to 25 or 250?ftlb (about 3/4 past socket-snug). 24) Tighten ALL P/S bolts. 25) Adjust metal heater pipe. Reinstall rubber heater hose. 26) Reinstall W/P pulley and Fan clutch, and upper idler if it was removed. 27) Thread NEW Belt on pulleys. 28) Tighten tension on idler. Tighten idler axle bolt. 29) Install lower rad hose. 30) Slide shroud over pulleys. 31) Install fan on clutch. 32) Clip shroud retainer bolt mounts back on top of radiator. 33) Install shroud. 34) Connect upper hose. 35) Reinstall radiator retainer. 36) Bolt retainer to Tubular bumper mounts. 37) Reinstall grill. 38) Wonder where the extra bolts etc are supposed to go. 39) Cuss - pray -cuss - pray. 40 ) sip some beer. 41) carefully inspect everything to ensure its back to the way it looked before (several pictures from a digital camera taken during the disassembly will help). 42) Close the rad petok. 43) Add 1 gallons of antifreeze. 44) Start engine and add another gallon of A/F. 45) Turn heater controls to HOT inside (no need for fan). 46) Water guage should show 180 to 210F. 47) Add 1 gallon of water. 48) Install New 18PSI rad cap. 49) Turn off engine and add water or A/F to overflow tank. 50) 1 hour later open Cap to see if level has settled. Add Water as needed to fill rad.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
you need a temp limited switch and for the most part its close to the blower motor has a small screw on each side with a plug in the middle give these websites a try www.autozone.com and www.alldatadiy.com if all fails stop by your Jeep dealership in the parts department and they be able to show you what i am talking about and print you off pictures and diagrams showing you where it is located wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.
Posted on Jan 04, 2010
If you still have a cap rotor and ignition wires, it's inside the distributor. If not, it is the part where the distributor used to be (center rear of the engine behind the intake manifold)
Posted on Feb 19, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 08, 2016 | 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Sep 30, 2015 | 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Jan 27, 2015 | 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Jul 08, 2014 | Jeep Grand Cars & Trucks
Dec 13, 2012 | Cars & Trucks
Jul 01, 2010 | 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Nov 16, 2009 | 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Jul 05, 2009 | 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
243 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: