Question about Cars & Trucks
My engine overheated taking it to the mechanic and the EGR bolts actually melted into the block and right now I have an exhaust leak and my exhaust valves are at risked and exposed. Is it possible to re-tap or re thread the holes that have bolts melted into them. I would think so and my daughter is a shipfitter and knows how to tab the holees.
It is possible to drill out and retap a hole in the block which is stripped, or which has a broken bolt shaft in it. Just be careful to go no deeper than the original. You can use first a tool like this
If your daughter is a shipfitter she may have access to other methods
However I am mystified by your assertion that the bolts melted. It is flatly not possible for an overheating engine to get hot enough to melt steel bolts in the block. The engine would seize up long long before that stage.
I have never heard of meltable bolts or screws (eg nylon or something) in an engine block, it would be just futile. You can find them in body trim, bumper bars, and dash assembly, but that's about it.
Did the mechanic make this claim? If so he is using controlled substances. I think it possible he broke the bolts off by being incompetent, and is now trying flimflam instead.
Posted on Nov 14, 2014
Testimonial: "Thanks Geoff.. and yes he made that claim and I should have known better. He most likely broke off the bolts as the exhaust was original and 20 years rusted. Thanks for the insight"
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Had a bad egr valve
You have a plugged exhaust, replace the catylictic converter and find out what make it fail and plug, rich fuel mixture is most common cause of overheated burnt cat. The EGR is just a symtom of the plugged exhaust.
Posted on Aug 02, 2008
Measure the exhaust back pressure. Do you have an old O2 sensor? If so just break the ends off of it so that just the tube is left sticking thru the center. Install it in one of the O2 ports and hook a vacuum/pressure guage to it. Should read les than 1 psi at idle and no more than 3 to 4 psi at WOT.
Posted on Feb 19, 2009
Using a torch of any kind will be extremely difficult for filling a stub hole. Even trying to tig it would be quite a challenge. If you can get it clean enough," PC-7" or "All-Metal" filler putty will work. The metal MUST be totally grease & oil free. Use carbutator cleaner or some other good grease cutter and a small round brush. Pipe cleaners with stiff bristles work well. Use a pin or small pick to reach into the remaining threads to break up any solids. Work the filler into the threads and push a hard aluminum rod into the hole. The rod must be sliightly scored for the filler to grab on to it. Give it a full 24 hours to cure. Sand it flat, center punch, drill & tap. The new hole will be as good if not stronger than the origiinal. About 2 hours, not including the cure time.
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
The only thing that I can think to help you out is to either drill a small hole in the center of the bolt and then try to get a flat head screw driver in to unscrew it. Or the other option would be to get those special socket sets that are designed to take out stripped bolts. The set I have is from Sears and I have used it many times so I know they work but I'm sure you can save some money if you go to Home Depot or Lowes. Good luck!
Posted on May 24, 2009
What happens is the head gaskets shrink causing the headbolts to loose torgue, and the headbolts are of one time use, whenever you do a headgasket job you will need to replace all the headbolts with new ones. and when ever you remove a cylinder head on any engine you should always chase the bolt holes with the proper tap, then blow out the holes with compressed air, this will help to insure a more accurate torque setting on the new headbolts...
Posted on Oct 01, 2009
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