Question about Cars & Trucks
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It is the fuel heater, All you have to do is unplug it.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks for the diagnosis. It's disappointing that our local Ford service will not advise to help get it running, even to make it in for service."
Under the hood, on the drivers side, right by the bulkhead firewall is a big black knurled cap...thats the lid of the fuel filter. Make sure you release the pressure first by turning the yellow lever underneath! that will help drain it. Make sure your turn it back after you put the new one in and restarting!
You can get a free manual for it on pdftown.com too!
Posted on Jul 21, 2010
The Low Pressure Side connector will be smaller than the High Pressure
Side connector so the refill hose will fit properly only on the Low
Read more: How to Recharge Air Conditioning with Freon in a Dodge Ram | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4484569_recharge-air-conditioning-freon-dodge.html#ixzz0uLXJnwvE
Posted on Jul 21, 2010
SOURCE: 1973 chevy truck vacuum diagram
Pretty sure I have the diagrams etc but they are buried away and would take a week to find.
BUT: The setup on that engine for that year is fairly uncomplicated and you could pretty much do away with all the emission controls etc and get the engine running really well. (just block off all vacuum ports on the manifold and carb except for the one to the transmission and power brake booster) I'm not really familiar with the edelbrock carb (looks like they are based on the old carter AFB carb though. I am partial to holley carbs, and the old quadrajet carbs)
What you need to check first though is your fuel pressure and delivery. You should be seeing 5-7 psi at the carb. With the fuel line disconnected, and attached to a rubber hose diverted into a container, you should see at least a gallon of fuel pumped at idle before the carb runs out of fuel. Make sure you don't have any leaks in the fuel line coming from the tank...with a pull type pump (mechanical pump on the engine) a leak often will not drip, but will allow air to be drawn into the line while running. Make sure that if your carb has a filter in the fuel inlet, it is clean. Make sure that the fuel line filter (sock) in the tank is also clean.
It's likely you have an egr valve on the manifold, If so, you can temporarily block it off with a small piece of metal from a soda can installed between the valve and the manifold. That will prevent it from working and if it has any leaks, blocking it off will eliminate it from the system. If that helps, replace the valve.
Your ignition system is fairly simple. a single 12 volt lead goes to the battery side of the distributor. You can block off the vacuum advance temporarily and just set the initial timing at about 8 degrees advanced. (depending upon fuel quality, you can go as high as 12) . The ignition module is not "testable" usually though they either work or they don't )
You do need to check the wires that attach to the pickup under the mount plate to make sure they are not partially broken and grounding when the advance moves the plate.
Back to your carburetor... If you are test driving without the air cleaner housing in place, it is possible that if there is a heat pad mounted to the underside of the hood, it can get drawn down against the carb inlet and cause problems. If the air cleaner housing is in place, make sure that the inlet door in the snorkel is opening or, disconnect the vacuum hose going to it as default on those is wide open. If you have tried everything I've outlined, you may have to go inside the carb and make sure that the power valve isn't frozen or that the float level isn't set too low.
Once you get it running right, you can begin to look for the diagrams etc you are looking for, but at least it will be running and usable.
The only other item that could give you a problem like the one you have is if the cam timing was set incorrectly at the factory (doubtful but it can happen) but I really would not worry about that just yet.
Hope something here helps!!! Good luck!
Posted on Aug 01, 2010
Testimonial: "Thank you for all the information provided. I will let you know how it goes, or if any new issues arise..."
My 2008 Camry driver side sun visor just broke and it will not stay in the up position. is flops down about three inches just enough to bug the **** out of you while driving. another toyota problem that should be recalled since it seams to be common
Posted on Aug 27, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Mar 08, 2016 | Ford Cars & Trucks
Aug 23, 2015 | GMC Cars & Trucks
May 01, 2011 | Dodge Ram 3500 Cars & Trucks
Feb 26, 2011 | 2007 Dodge Sprinter
Oct 27, 2010 | Dodge Sprinter
Sep 05, 2010 | 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 Truck
Jul 27, 2010 | 2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Quad Cab Laramie
Dec 11, 2009 | 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Mega Cab Laramie
Oct 25, 2009 | 2007 Ford F-250 Super Duty Lariat
14 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!