Question about Cars & Trucks
Check the wire connections to earth , make sure the are clear of corrosion etc and tight , leave the ignition on for a few minutes then try to start , if still wont start try a jump start , even a new battery may be unservicable , if starts with a jump then take the battery back for it to be tested
Posted on Nov 14, 2014
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like you may need to hit the dealership on that issue. Call them and talk to parts and let them know what you have done already.
Posted on Mar 10, 2009
SOURCE: check engine light
P0041 Downstream Oxygen Sensors Swapped From Bank To Bank
How does a P0041 code trigger the check engine light? This code will trigger the light to come on under the following condition:
The Heated Oxygen Sensor Monitor, a strategy built into the computer, determines if the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) signal response for a change in fuel trim corresponds to the correct engine bank. If a response from the Oxygen Sensor being tested is not indicated, a trouble code will be set and the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) will illuminate.
Crossed Heated Oxygen Sensor harness connectors
Wiring swapped from one Oxygen Sensor connector to the other
Wiring changed at the computer connection or in the related harness
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
Bearings are pressed into the hubs...much easier, faster and economical (if you don't have a press) to replace the complete bearing/hub assembly, no pressing is needed, since bearings are already pressed into the new hubs. Cost..aprox, 60 buxs each.
Here are the steps for the rear replacement...
Loosen the lug nuts on a rear wheel. 2) Chock the wheels and jack the rear of the car on the side with the lug nuts that you just loosened. 3) Remove the wheel by removing the lug nuts. 4) Pry open the dust cap covering the center of the axle/spindle. A small screwdriver tapped into the space between the hub and dust cap will work well for this. 5) With the dust cap now removed, use a thin center punch to straighten the little dent in the rim of the spindle nut so that you will be able to turn it freely in the next step. 6) Use a 32mm socket and a large breaker-bar to loosen the spindle nut. Unscrew the nut all the way and place it in a clean, safe area. 7) You should now be able to slide the hub/bearing assembly from the shaft. 8) Installation is the reverse of removal. Use plenty of high-temperature wheel bearing grease on all surfaces before you mount the replacement hub assembly.
IMPORTANT: Torque the spindle nut to 134 ft/lbs....(per manual specs)
When reinstalling the dust caps, tap them gently into place to avoid denting them...Install wheels, jack her down and pat yourself on the back...job complete.
Good luck..hope this will fixya up...please take time to leave me a fixya rateing...
Posted on May 23, 2009
Check your batt & cables & numerous ground connections. Clean and tighten all- even if they look OK put a wrench to them and give a twist to tighten them.
You have 2 fuse panels- one under the dash and the other over the passenger side firewall. I would start by removing each fuse one at a time, inspecting each fuse visually and with a continuity (ohms) tester. Then take a pink pearl eraser and clean the wafer tips of each fuse before replacing them to the same place you removed the fuse. If you find a burnt fuse replace it WITH THE EXACT SAME AMP RATED FUSE (making a note of the circuit it is for)- likewise if any fuse fails the continuity test.
If you have good grounds and clean connections to the positive (don't forget to check the alternator plugs) and all your fuses are clean and in good working order then the next thing to check for are the relays and the ignition switch
Don't just start taking the steering column apart to get to the switch, however, because you will have to disengage the airbag deployment circuit before fooling around in there. Your Haynes or Honda shop manual should walk you through that.
In addition there are relays that click in the firewall fuseblock under the hood. Check your manuals for procedure to test these as they relate to ignition and or starting circuits and may be your trouble.
If you hear clicks at the relay when turning the ignition on- without starting- then these are probably OK and so is your ignition switch- at least for the ignition only setting.
Another problem I've had with my old Civic is that the interlocks get a little squirrely from time to time. Make sure you have your foot on the brake, your trans in park or neutral, etc. If you have an auto transmission there is a slot to release the shift lever- stick your key in it and run the shifter through all the gears a couple times. Sometimes I have to yank the steering wheel back and forth hard to get the ignition switch to fully engage or to even turn. This is what I do when I get nothing and hear no initial clicks or when my key won't turn. Every once in a while it just plays dead, but unjamming the interlock devices always brings it back for me. I have over 120k miles, but this has happened every once in a blue moon since it was new.
Good Luck, let me know how it goes. If this fixes ya then please rate this solution. If not, then post an update of your results and findings and we'll get deeper into it.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 14, 2014 | Cars & Trucks
Jul 11, 2014 | 1994 Honda Civic
May 18, 2011 | 2005 Honda Civic
Feb 25, 2011 | 1994 Honda Civic
Nov 27, 2009 | 1994 Honda Civic
Sep 24, 2009 | 1994 Honda Civic
Jun 21, 2009 | 1994 Honda Civic
Dec 14, 2008 | 1994 Honda Civic
Sep 27, 2008 | 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol
54 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!