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I just had a brand new clutch / pressure plate / slave cylinder and dual mass flywheel installed (all LUK products) in my 2002 Lincoln LS and everything functions just fine, but the engagement point i

I just had a brand new clutch / pressure plate / slave cylinder and dual mass flywheel installed (all LUK products) in my 2002 Lincoln LS and everything functions just fine, but the engagement point is almost all the way at the end on the pedal travel above the floor. I pulled the pedal up to adjust any free play out and it made no change. How do you adjust the engagement point? I would like it to be approximately 1/3 or so up from the floor.

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  • 38 Answers

Sounds like air in the slave cylinder ! Bleed and see how that works out .

Posted on Nov 14, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Low / Soft Clutch Pedal, 1995 Rodeo 2W 2.6L

my rodeo had the same problem i corrected it by bleeding the slave cylinder. and is located on the driver side on the gearbox you will find it if you follow the line from the master cylinder down to the gearbox and if that helps but happens again it might have to be replaced.

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: 1990 wrangler all new slave cylinder, pressure

If you have had the flywheel cut, have a clutch with a different release height (different finger or diaphram design & height) or a remanufactured pressure plate, or all of the above, you may run into this problem.
Small differences there translate to a large difference at the pedal. On linkage type designs, there were several options including longer/shorter throwout bearing or adjustable fork pivot ball. Hydraulic systems should compensate somewhat, but if you are beyond the travel of the slave cyl, I'm not sure there is anything you can do from the outside. I would check that there are no air leaks. If you have an external slave cylinder you may be able to make a slightly longer rod that connects the slave to the clutch fork. I really can't think of anything else to do at this point.
Hope this helps a bit.

Posted on Apr 19, 2009

  • 566 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 hyandai accent gt clutch problem

hi considering age of car and that you have no leaks on hydraulics? may i suggest you try bleeding the clutch to rid of old fluid a couple of pumps may be suffice ? b/fluid does absorb moisture and heat over time hence recommendation tat fluid be changed at period specified in handbooks ie 12 monthly ?

Posted on May 15, 2009

  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: clutch pedal stays 2 the floor on a hydralic

Did you bleed the system? When you replace the the master and/or slave cylinder you have to bleed the system just as you would with brakes. There is a bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Open the bleed screw, have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal down.Tighten the bleed screw, then release clutch. Repeat this procedure until you have removed all air from the system and the clutch pedal is firm. Keep an eye on the fluid level to avoid sucking air into the system. If you have done this, remember there is a possibility that the master or slave cylinder is defective.

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

  • 2187 Answers

SOURCE: clutch adjustment

Its either the clutch fluid is wrong or not at the correct levels or it has not been bled correctly.

Posted on Nov 30, 2009

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What to fix when my clutch pedal losses pressure then it started taping where the clutch is in the transmission I discovered that clutch line and cylinder had dirt stopping it up what should I do to find...


By what I can figure by what you are saying. First are you low on clutch hydraulic fluid if so you must look for a leak. If your not losing fluid then your master clutch cylinder is bad and must be replaced.

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You cannot adjust it, if it's slipping while driving either there is oil on the clutch disc, the pressure plate isn't strong enough to overcome engine torque or something is incorrect in your clutch system

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Need new clutchplate & pressure plate for manua


Instructions
  1. Remove the Old Clutch
    • 1Verify that your vehicle's clutch is the source of your problems and not the pedal-arm bushings, activating cables or the slave-master cylinder.
    • 2Unhook the positive battery cable, the clutch cable or hydraulic slave cylinder to get the transaxle ready for easy removal. Eliminate anything that may hinder your efforts, including exhaust pipes and the speedometer.
    • 3
    • Secure your car in a safe position before jacking up the front end.
    • 4Stabilize the engine with a jack below the oil pan. Remove the transaxle by undoing at least one engine mount.
    • 5Separate the engine from the transaxle by removing the bolts that surround the flywheel bell housing.
    • 6Push the transaxle away from the engine until the input shift clears the pressure plate.
    • 7Disengage the bolts surrounding the pressure plate and take it and the clutch disc out. Check to see if the flywheel's friction surface is scored, checked or has hot spots. Remove, machine and reinstall the flywheel, if needed.
    • 8Examine the pilot bearing (bushing) located at the flywheel's center to be sure the needle bearings are lubricated and that there's no galling. Also look for any oil leaking around the rear main engine seal.
    Replace the Clutch
    • 9Follow the instructions for replacing your car's clutch carefully to avoid having to remove the transaxle.
    • 10Check that the transaxle's input shaft isn't leaking; replace if needed.
    • 11Take out the flywheel and the old seal and install a new seal.
    Install a New Clutch
    • 12Clean the crankshaft flange before putting in the flywheel. With the flywheel on top of the flange, secure the bolts in a star formation to the specified torque for your vehicle.
    • 13Install the clutch disc and pressure plate. Prior to putting in the transaxle, attach the new release bearing to the release fork. The fork should move freely.
    • 14Hoist the transaxle into position and move it forward until the input shaft glides into the clutch disc's spindled hole. Do not apply force.
    • 15Reinstall any bolts or mounts that were removed to replace your car's clutch. Grab the transaxle, release the jack and lower your vehicle.
    • 16Consider replacing your car's clutch cable. If you don't replace the cable at least adjust it for the right amount of free-play.
    • 17Confirm that your clutch's self-adjusting action is performing correctly by depressing the slave cylinder's piston into its bore.
    • 18Drive your car to be sure your clutch is working properly.

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1 Answer

Replaced master cylinder in clutch in an attempt to stop the car sticking in gear and moving when foot taken of brake. It still moves while the clutch is still depressed and needs brake to stop...


Sounds like a worn-out clutch plate or broken/damaged throw-out bearing or pressure plate. You need to replace the clutch - including the pressure plate, throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, and I also recommend a new slave cylinder. (Especially since you have allready replaced the master cylinder.) You may want to weigh the pros and cons of having your flywheel machined or just replacing it with a "Remanufactured " flywheel.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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The internal balancing is taken care of by the flywheel only.

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2 Answers

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You probably still have a slipping clutch plate against the flywheel. You need to adjust the clutch petal linkage shaft to allow the pressure plate to be release from the thrust bearing, ie shorten the shaft length.. If you and most likely you do just have the clutch release slave cylinder that releases the clutch when you apply the petal. You need to bleed the slave cylinder of any excess fluid or air that may have entered the line if you opened it at any point. You need to bleed it as you would a break cylinder and this should fix ya.
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good luck

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  4. Attach the pressure plate to the dual mass flywheel and complete assembly of the remaining components per the Shop Manual procedures. 0240025c.gif

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