Question about Cars & Trucks
Was driving down the highway about 70mph, and slowly the truck started to lose power, i pulled over and shut it down and it wasnt over heating. I tried to start it back up and it wont fire. I checked my fuel pressure at the top of engine i have 50PSI. And i have spark. No check engine light was engaged and yes the bulb works. Just replaced Alternator 3 days prior.
Check the crank sensor !
Posted on Nov 14, 2014
Testimonial: "My uncle says its the Cat, but i disagreed because i figured it would still at least fire and then stall, it doesnt even fire. And i just changed the Alternator...idk if its coincidence."
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First off you can test the fuel pump 2 ways
1.have a assistant turn on the ign to on while you listen for the pump to run at the gas cap (gas cap off).
2.find the valve on the fuel rail looks like a a/c or valve stem,take the cap off and press the needle and if fuel comes out then it's not the fuel pump.
But from a lot of EXPERIANCE on dodge engines the stalling and restarting issue is ignition related i.e crank or cam sensor which will throw a diagnostic code of engine misfire xxx cylinders.
So If its one of those sensors then you will not have any spark,and staring fluids will not fire the engine.
As for the headlights flickering they get there power through a relay straight from the battery,so I would look at the relays under the hood and find the one for the headlights and swap it out with the horn relay as most of the relays will have the same numbers.
The crank sensor is about 70.00 and the cam sensor is about 50.
depending on where you get them (dealer or aftermarket)
the cam sensor is the round plastic thing under the dist cap,and the crank sensor is on the pass side under the head into the top of the transmission bell housing and it's a 2hr job to change because of it's location is really hard to get to.
Hint -take the breather off and place a rag over the intake and a board from the radiator core support to the intake to lay on,it has 2 10mm bolts and the wiring harness unplugs from underneath.
Posted on Jan 10, 2009
SOURCE: Check engine light
A multi misfire may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Faulty spark plug or wires, Faulty coil (pack), Faulty oxygen sensor(s), Faulty fuel injector(s), Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages, Faulty camshaft position sensor, Defective computer.
The engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wire, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open.
Good luck and hope this information helps, keep me posted, be glad to help you get the truck running 100% again. Not sure if your running a K&N air filter, and if you are there may be a flim of oil on the MAF sensor that is making you run lean. You may want to spray down the MAF sensor with a can of MAF cleaner.
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
your battery may check out fine, being 5.9 liter take a big amperage to turn that starter over 12volt does not mean a thing, amperage is what count. Every auto part store they sell many types of battery and they all 12V but different amperage. Your battery may check out 12V but amperage may have gotten weak. Check all your negative ground that you have good contact to body chassis. You can also try to get a jump from other truck (friends) that has a higher or same amperage as yours to see if it turn over. using jumper cables connect positive cable straight to your positive post and the negative directly to your motor metal ground and see that will also assist the amperage to turn over that starter. This way we can truly eliminate the battery if it does not start. If that don't work than its you ground connections or positive contact. check both positive and negative cables from your battery making sure the wires is good. Inspect the ground wire to your starter making sure it has good contact. Oil and rust will make give a bad contact. If your hear the serenoid clicking when the key is turn over and you can hear the starter making a strong clicking noise to the flywheel but not able to turn your fly wheel, and we try to jump with addition battery increasing the amperage along with good starter, all the gound wires check out, chances are your motor may be lock up. The only way to check if your motor/flywheel is lock up, take all the spark plugs out that way it will reduce your compression, take a big close end box wrench and put it on the main crank pulley and try to turn the main crank pulley over by hand. Go from there and re-post and let us know, one of us will try to continue to walk you through it.
Posted on Sep 08, 2009
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