- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Heater needs Heater Core, Heater control valve, air diverter inside the car and hot water in the heater core. If you just change the thermostat you must have had a reason. If the car was running hot it could be a radiator clog. If the core is clogged no heat. If the heater core was drained when you changed the Tstat there may be air in it - if so no heat. If the control valve (on the heater hose) does not shift- no heat. If the diverter door in under the dash does not direct the fan air through the heater core- no heat.
trace the upper radiater hose back to engine. Where this hose connects to engine is called the "thermostat housing" thermostats are usually located under these or their extensions. The first thing I would check when I have a "low heat" situation, is the connections where the heater hoses connect to the engine for rust and corrosion, or clogged heater hoses or heater core cloggs.
Hello, timbland40 and thank you for asking your question on Fixya!
Here is a simple process that will walk you through a few steps that
will pinpoint the overheating problem on your 1995 GMC,
without even using any tools. It has helped millions of people, and I am
certain that it will help you, because I wrote it for people in your exact situation. How to diagnose your overheating 1995 GMC Pay close attention to the block test part of the instructions.
Hi There I have had the same problem, if the climate control shows different temps at either side it most possible that the heater valve needs replacing, the valves inside get rusty and sieze up, it is situated at the front o/s at the side of the radiator. If temps are the same could be the control module
It doesn't sound like that, could be heater controls, heater core, blockage in the coolant passages or even the thermostat. Thats the cheapest solution, but if the thermostat is bad your car would not circulate coolant and would be overheating, it could be intermittantly opening too.. But they are not hard to replace if you can get to it..
You want to jack up the front center of the vihicle about 10"-1 foot. This will bring the water level to the same level as the heater core eliminating any airlocks. Fill the radiator/radiator overflow with the engine running and the heater conrols on hot/ high. Run the engine for about ten minutes and keep an eye on the fluid level. If you are unable to fill the level to it's peak/max mark then you will have to replace the thermostat also. Given that you don't have a bad(faulty) thermostat, give the engine an occasional rev to push the water through the water jacket. This should solve your situation. Thank you, Dana
Does your temp gauge read normal? if it does then the thremostat is ok,but sadly the water pump is going bad this is typical of jeeps at an idle the heater cools off because the water pump fins are worn enough to not circulate through the heater core and when you step on the gas the increased rpm move the water fast enough to circulate through the heater,it is possible that the heater core is plugged but I doubt it as a plugged heater core would not get hot either it would be cold or just luke warm all the time.
Where is the temp gauge reading? If it is below half-way up, your thermostat is sticking open, and the coolant going to the heater is not at the proper temperature (192 degrees F) to make good heat. Replace the thermostat, and this will solve your situation.
Hope this helps, and thank you for choosing FixYa!