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I have a f250 v 10 4x4 no vacuum to lock out or solenoid where does the vacuum come from

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Depends on the year. Open the hood, look on "your left" on the back firewall there you should see 2 plastic parts mounted with small vacuum lines and also electrical plugs. This is what operates 4x4 actuation to the axle. Small lines are known to crack and or break and leak. Also the electrical part in the switch is known to fail.

Posted on Nov 12, 2014

  • roger minard Nov 12, 2014

    it's a 2010 4 wheel drive solenoid and vacuum tank by the radiator going to look where the lines go today no 4x4 hublockout but has vacuum for here in 4 by 4 switch in truck can hear it click it will drive in 4 wheel drive if I lock in the hubs but no auto found one broken hose by battery put in new solenoid I was not working

  • roger minard Nov 13, 2014

    found 3 broken lines put new lines on still no 4 wheel drive in automatic need to buy or rent vacuum Gage and vacuum hand pump what should be the vacuum pressure for that 2010 v 10 Super Duty

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TRUCK WILL NOT COME FULLY OUT OF 4X4 LOCKS BACK IN WHEN ENGINE KILLED


Sounds like the TSB for the IWE solenoid, where water can get into the vacuum lines and not keep the IWE gear disengaged.

Right Click, save as :
http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/file_tsb06_08_15.pdf

The IWE ( Integrated Wheel Ends ) are held out with vacuum when the motor is running, Once the engine is turned off, and vacuum bleeds out of the system, the IWEs will lock again.

The other issue could be bad vacuum lines, where there is a crank in them from the IWE solenoid on the firewall down to the front wheels.

Until you have time to diagnose where the problem is with the IWE vacuum system ( TSB / Vacuum lines ) , either pull and pull the vacuum lines from the IWE and plug them ( front axle locked ) or drive in 4x4 so you do not round off the IWE gears.

Block diagram of the IWE system
sscullys_167.jpg

Jun 17, 2011 | 2004 Ford F150

1 Answer

My secondary air pump for my exhaust system is no good causing my car to fail inspection is it easy to fix


YEP EASY FIX CHECK FUSES TO AIR PUMP VACUUM SOLENOID.CHECK VACUUM HOSES AND VACUUM SOURCE TO THE AIR PUMP VACUUM SOLENOID .THE AIR PUMP VACUUM VALVE SOLENOID IS NORMALLY CLOSED NO VACUUM IS APPLIED TO THE CHECK VALVE. WHEN THE PCM ENERGIZES THE SOLENOID BY COMPLETING THE CIRCUIT TO GROUND. THE VALVE OPENS VACUUM IS APPLIED TO THE CHECK VALVE. THE CHECK VALVE OPENS AND AIR FLOWS THROUGH THE TUBE INTO THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD. THREE THINGS WILL CAUSE SECONDARY AIR PUMP PROBLEMS.THE SECONDARY AIR PUMP IS BAD.OR THE AIR PUMP VACUUM SOLENOID NOT GETTING VACUUM OR POWER.OR THE CHECK VALVE TO EXHAUST MANIFOLD NOT OPENING.IF YOU HAVE FAULTY SECONDARY AIR PUMP IT WILL MAKE SQUEALING NOISE AIR PUMP GETTING READY TO LOCK UP.

May 19, 2011 | 2006 Ford Focus

1 Answer

2003 f250 cant get any vaccum to come out of silinoid by right front fender center wire has juice


It sounds like you're referring to the ESOF PVH solenoid for auto locking the front hubs.


With the hublocks in the AUTO position, the 4x4 ESOF system uses timed vacuum sequences to lock and unlock the wheel ends when switching the instrument panel MSS between 2WD and 4x4 modes. A high vacuum level (222 mm [8.75 in] Hg and greater) is applied to the hublocks to lock the internal spring mechanism that engages (locks) the hublocks for 4x4 mode, and a lower vacuum

level (114 to 184 mm [5.9 to 7.1 in] Hg) is applied to unlock the spring mechanism that disengages (unlocks) the hublocks for 2WD mode.


The vacuum system is actually pretty simple. On the passenger side firewall is an electric vacuum pump. There is a vacuum line coming off of it that goes over to a vacuum reservoir. Also connected to the reservoir is a T fitting with two lines from it. One line goes forward into the cab to the heater controls. The other line enters a loom and goes to the PVH (Pulse Vacuum Hublock) solenoid. This solenoid controls vacuum to the automatic hub locks.

The first tests I would do are pretty simple. With the key in the RUN position, unplug the line at the pump. The pump should start running immediately. Put your finger over the nipple and the pump should stop immediately. This verifies your pump is good.

Once you've done that, I'd hook the pump back up, leave the key in RUN and watch the system for awhile. Maybe 10 to 15 minutes. The pump should run long enough to pull a vacuum in the reservoir and all the lines and then shut off. If the system holds and the pump doesn't come back on, then you've essentially verified that the reservoir, the lines going forward to the heater controls, and the lines going to the PVH solenoid are all good and not leaking.

If the pump cycles back on regularly, then you have a leak somewhere in those lines or the reservoir and you need to start tracing them out to find it. Start at the reservoir, disconnect a line on the pump side, plug it and see that the pump pulls down a vacuum and holds it. Reconnect that line and move down to the next connection and do the same thing. Continue this procedure until you've traced down all the lines. If you get to a point where the pump continues to run, or cycles on and off, then you've found a leak in the last section of line you've tested.

If all of the lines up to the PVH solenoid test good, then you're left with the solenoid itself, the lines from the solenoid to the hubs, or the hub seals. This is where a good hand vacuum pump with a gauge comes in handy. You can attach the pump at the line going down to the hubs, pump up about 14 PSI of vacuum and see if it holds. If it does, then the lines and the hub seals are good. If it doesn't, then start working down towards the hubs, isolating lines to see if they hold vacuum. It is common to find cracked lines going down to the hubs this way. If you get all the way to the hubs, attach your pump to the vacuum nipple on the back of the hub, pump up about 14 PSI and see if it holds. If it doesn't, then that hubs seals are bad and need replacing.

If, in the end, all of your lines and hubs hold vacuum properly, you are pretty much left with the solenoid itself. Attach your vacuum gauge to the line after the solenoid and have someone switch to 4WD. The solenoid should apply about 14-15 PSI for up to 60 seconds. Then have them switch back to 2WD. The solenoid should apply about 7 PSI for about 60 seconds. If neither of these happens then your solenoid is likely bad.

Feb 22, 2011 | 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty

2 Answers

4 wheel drive does not work


It sounds like you're referring to the ESOF PVH solenoid for auto locking the front hubs.


With the hublocks in the AUTO position, the 4x4 ESOF system uses timed vacuum sequences to lock and unlock the wheel ends when switching the instrument panel MSS between 2WD and 4x4 modes. A high vacuum level (222 mm [8.75 in] Hg and greater) is applied to the hublocks to lock the internal spring mechanism that engages (locks) the hublocks for 4x4 mode, and a lower vacuum level (114 to 184 mm [5.9 to 7.1 in] Hg) is applied to unlock the spring mechanism that disengages (unlocks) the hublocks for 2WD mode.


The vacuum system is actually pretty simple. On the passenger side firewall is an electric vacuum pump. There is a vacuum line coming off of it that goes over to a vacuum reservoir. Also connected to the reservoir is a T fitting with two lines from it. One line goes forward into the cab to the heater controls. The other line enters a loom and goes to the PVH (Pulse Vacuum Hublock) solenoid. This solenoid controls vacuum to the automatic hub locks.

The first tests I would do are pretty simple. With the key in the RUN position, unplug the line at the pump. The pump should start running immediately. Put your finger over the nipple and the pump should stop immediately. This verifies your pump is good.

Once you've done that, I'd hook the pump back up, leave the key in RUN and watch the system for awhile. Maybe 10 to 15 minutes. The pump should run long enough to pull a vacuum in the reservoir and all the lines and then shut off. If the system holds and the pump doesn't come back on, then you've essentially verified that the reservoir, the lines going forward to the heater controls, and the lines going to the PVH solenoid are all good and not leaking.

If the pump cycles back on regularly, then you have a leak somewhere in those lines or the reservoir and you need to start tracing them out to find it. Start at the reservoir, disconnect a line on the pump side, plug it and see that the pump pulls down a vacuum and holds it. Reconnect that line and move down to the next connection and do the same thing. Continue this procedure until you've traced down all the lines. If you get to a point where the pump continues to run, or cycles on and off, then you've found a leak in the last section of line you've tested.

If all of the lines up to the PVH solenoid test good, then you're left with the solenoid itself, the lines from the solenoid to the hubs, or the hub seals. This is where a good hand vacuum pump with a gauge comes in handy. You can attach the pump at the line going down to the hubs, pump up about 14 PSI of vacuum and see if it holds. If it does, then the lines and the hub seals are good. If it doesn't, then start working down towards the hubs, isolating lines to see if they hold vacuum. It is common to find cracked lines going down to the hubs this way. If you get all the way to the hubs, attach your pump to the vacuum nipple on the back of the hub, pump up about 14 PSI and see if it holds. If it doesn't, then that hubs seals are bad and need replacing.

If, in the end, all of your lines and hubs hold vacuum properly, you are pretty much left with the solenoid itself. Attach your vacuum gauge to the line after the solenoid and have someone switch to 4WD. The solenoid should apply about 14-15 PSI for up to 60 seconds. Then have them switch back to 2WD. The solenoid should apply about 7 PSI for about 60 seconds. If neither of these happens then your solenoid is likely bad.

You may want to check the center pin of the solenoid wiring connector for power.

Dec 30, 2010 | 2000 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cabs

1 Answer

2002 ford f150 four wheel drive front hubs not going into fourwheel drive


Is the system ESOF ( Electronic Shift On the Fly ) or MSOF ( Mechanical Shift On the Fly ) ?

If you have already tested to find the front drive shaft locks into place, and the front axle is the cause, looks to the front vacuum disconnect shift motor.
Item #10 in the parts diagram below :
sscullys_1.gif

Close up of it ( this is a picture from another person's bracket that broke ) :
sscullys_51.jpg

Chances are the vacuum lines to the vacuum disconnect motor are cracked, the vacuum solenoids are not working correctly, or the vacuum to the solenoids is having an issue ( the reservoir ) :
Vacuum diagram for the shift motor
sscullys_52.jpg

The pink line is vacuum for 2WD operation ( unlocks the axle ) the light blue vacuum line is for 4WD operation ( locks the axle ).

You can test right at the vacuum disconnect motor with a vacuum gauge with the motor running. Unplug the shift motor, and check for vacuum right at the motor.

Could be the shift motor has a damaged diaphragm and not holding vacuum or has water in it ( saw that 1 time ).

Start with checking for vacuum. Also check the fuses for the vacuum solenoids, the power is always at the solenoid, ground is switched on and off by the GEM ( Generic Electronics Module ) to operate them

Dec 17, 2010 | 2002 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

My 2001 ford supercrew wont engage into 4 wheel drive


Lift and support the front of the truck so the front wheels are off the ground ( take safety precautions, chock wheels, jack stands, etc )
Key on, engage 4x4 and try to turn the front drive shaft.
If it turns it is a problem with the transfer case.
If it doesn't it is a front axle engagement problem.

If the front axle does not turn, the cause generally has to do with the Vacuum disconnect motor on the axle ( Item #10 in this picture ) :
sscullys_0.gif
Close Up :
sscullys_11.jpg

The vacuum disconnect motor is operated by the vacuum axle disconnect solenoids on the firewall
sscullys_12.jpg

You can test from here with a vacuum pump ( i.e. mightvac ) to see if the vacuum lines to the vacuum disconnect motor are good.
The pink vacuum line is 2WD operation, the Light Blue vacuum line is 4WD operation.
If the vacuum lines test good from here to the disconnect motor, and applying vacuum locks the front axle, it is either the vacuum solenoids, or the vacuum reservoir behind the battery, or the vacuum lines to the solenoids.
The solenoids have + VDC all the time, and the GEM applies ground to the correct solenoid to engage or disengage the front axle.

Nov 06, 2010 | 2001 Ford F150 Styleside SuperCrew

1 Answer

I have a 2006 Ford F-150 5.4 litre the 4x4 will not engage. I can **** into 4x4 and I can't turn the front shaft, in two wheel I can spin the shaft and I can see both sides of the axles turning up to the...


The hubs on this vehicle are vacuum operated and controlled by a module and a solenoid valve. When there is no vacuum applied to the hubs they should be locked in. The hubs will unlock with vacuum applied. Disconnect the vacuum lines at the hubs and see if the axles freewheel. If they do you likely have a hub issue. If the hubs are locked in with the lines disconnected you probably have a faulty solenoid valve.

Aug 08, 2010 | 2006 Ford F-150

3 Answers

My 2001 f150 super crew won't shift from 2wd to 4h or 4l when i turn knob. any ideas


Best to check by jacking the truck up ( taking safety precautions, parking brake, chock the wheels, jack stands, etc ), turn the key to the run position and place into 4WD.
If the front drive shaft turns, the problem is in the transfer case.
If the front drive shaft does not turn, the problem is in the front axle.

I would suspect the front shaft does not turn, and the most common cause of this is the vacuum motor on the front axle, the vacuum lines to it, or the vacuum solenoids.
The vacuum shift motor is what locks the front wheels in, and without this action, the PM does not get the confirm that the truck is good to go, and illuminate the cluster indicators ( 4x4, and if 4L the Low Range lamps ).
There are 2 vacuum solenoids, one is 4WD one is 2WD ( to move the motor one way or the other ).
Start with checking for vac on the vacuum motor ( actually it is a diaphragm ). The pink line should have vacuum when in 4WD, the blue line should have vacuum when in 2WD. If not, time to work back towards the solenoids. Use a short length of hose on the vacuum solenoids, and retest.
If still missing vacuum on the 4WD solenoid, I would suspect it is bad, but best to test on the other side of it, to make sure the vacuum reservoir ( mounted behind the battery box ) is supplying vacuum to the solenoids.

This is just the most common cause, best to confirm with the 1st test above, to know if you should look to the trans case, or axle.

This is what the vacuum shift motor looks like on the front axle
bc26677.jpg

These are the vacuum shift solenoids
f041b5c.jpg

Dec 12, 2009 | 2001 Ford F150 Styleside SuperCrew

2 Answers

F250 2004 4x4 not working, vacuum holds on lines to hub, motor works on the shift motor (position sensor also seems to work as lights went off after I manually shifted out of 4x4), not sure if vacuum...


With the hublocks in the AUTO position, the 4x4 ESOF system uses timed vacuum sequences to lock and unlock the wheel ends when switching the instrument panel MSS between 2WD and 4x4 modes. A high vacuum level (222 mm [8.75 in] Hg and greater) is applied to the hublocks to lock the internal spring mechanism that engages (locks) the hublocks for 4x4 mode, and a lower vacuum

level (114 to 184 mm [5.9 to 7.1 in] Hg) is applied to unlock the spring mechanism that disengages (unlocks) the hublocks for 2WD mode.


The vacuum system is actually pretty simple. On the passenger side firewall is an electric vacuum pump. There is a vacuum line coming off of it that goes over to a vacuum reservoir. Also connected to the reservoir is a T fitting with two lines from it. One line goes forward into the cab to the heater controls. The other line enters a loom and goes to the PVH (Pulse Vacuum Hublock) solenoid. This solenoid controls vacuum to the automatic hub locks.

The first tests I would do are pretty simple. With the key in the RUN position, unplug the line at the pump. The pump should start running immediately. Put your finger over the nipple and the pump should stop immediately. This verifies your pump is good.

Once you've done that, I'd hook the pump back up, leave the key in RUN and watch the system for awhile. Maybe 10 to 15 minutes. The pump should run long enough to pull a vacuum in the reservoir and all the lines and then shut off. If the system holds and the pump doesn't come back on, then you've essentially verified that the reservoir, the lines going forward to the heater controls, and the lines going to the PVH solenoid are all good and not leaking.

If the pump cycles back on regularly, then you have a leak somewhere in those lines or the reservoir and you need to start tracing them out to find it. Start at the reservoir, disconnect a line on the pump side, plug it and see that the pump pulls down a vacuum and holds it. Reconnect that line and move down to the next connection and do the same thing. Continue this procedure until you've traced down all the lines. If you get to a point where the pump continues to run, or cycles on and off, then you've found a leak in the last section of line you've tested.

If all of the lines up to the PVH solenoid test good, then you're left with the solenoid itself, the lines from the solenoid to the hubs, or the hub seals. This is where a good hand vacuum pump with a gauge comes in handy. You can attach the pump at the line going down to the hubs, pump up about 14 PSI of vacuum and see if it holds. If it does, then the lines and the hub seals are good. If it doesn't, then start working down towards the hubs, isolating lines to see if they hold vacuum. It is common to find cracked lines going down to the hubs this way. If you get all the way to the hubs, attach your pump to the vacuum nipple on the back of the hub, pump up about 14 PSI and see if it holds. If it doesn't, then that hubs seals are bad and need replacing.

If, in the end, all of your lines and hubs hold vacuum properly, you are pretty much left with the solenoid itself. Attach your vacuum gauge to the line after the solenoid and have someone switch to 4WD. The solenoid should apply about 14-15 PSI for up to 60 seconds. Then have them switch back to 2WD. The solenoid should apply about 7 PSI for about 60 seconds. If neither of these happens then your solenoid is likely bad.

You may want to check the center pin of the solenoid wiring connector for power.

Sep 02, 2009 | 2004 Ford F250

2 Answers

Hubs will not enguage when set to auto


the hubs on that truck are a vaccum controled hub, when the swithch is turned to 4x4 the vaccum control solenoid (on the fender) applys vaccum to the hub and locks- you can put a vaccum gauge on the hubs- if a leak is found thre is an o ring and an axle hub seal that needs to be replaced... if no leak is found at the hubs check the vac. lines and solenoid.goodluck

May 20, 2009 | 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cab

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