Question about Mazda CX-9
Car won't start after replacing battery what should we do only electrical power when manual key is turned even with a jump
Clean cable connections. Did you use a memory saver when you replaced the battery?
Do the headlights dim when the key is turned to the start position?
Posted on Nov 12, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2004 A 8L won"t start
starter wont click because there's not enough "juice" to turn it over. this isnt because of the battery as you have just replaced it. it is due to a bad alternator recharging the battery as you drive. if it were only a fuse it would be the solenoid in the starter. but if it had started after you installed the battery then its not the solenoid. solution: buy a refurbished alternator and
Posted on Apr 24, 2009
The starter is turning only when the solenoid close the contact to deliver the current to the starter . When this happens it then turns the bendix to engage with the flying wheel to start the engine.
The reason that you need higher voltage to have correct needed current going through the contact of the solenoid, hence the starter. The contact is corroded or rusty due to high spark at high current at every start time causing high resistance. V=IR the R resistance of the contact now is high so it need higher voltage (14.3 vs, 12.8 V) to deliver the same needed current for the starter.
Unfortunately, the solenoid is integrated with the starter, so you can not just replace the solenoid without replacing the starter.
If you can find the new battery holding at 14.3 V as you mentioned, then that is an economical solution since replacing the starter is costing more.
BTW where can I find the battery at 14.3V in case my friend's car has a same problem?
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
..@briver916...Recheck all the fuses and relays in the 2 boxes under the hood and another one of fuses and relays panel inside the car, front of the driver seat, behind the pull out box next to the hood release handle..Under the hood check inside the one with 8" black square box;Check # 1 slot fuse, it is 60 amps for (+B ), check # 8 slot fuse for Engine control 20 amps, check # 15 slot Fuel pump 15 amps..And check another skinny black box lie next to that box, it has relay F, that is Engine control, check that also...And inside the car fuses panel; Check # 1 slot fuse 10 amps that for Ignition coil, # 8 slot Engine control 7.5 amps, # 12 slot Engine control 7.5 amps..After that recheck the battery post, that maybe needed re-tight..Don't force to tight too much, that will crack and broke the post and the plastic battery body...And check all the ignition wires and spark plugs that are tight or needed to replace..And check all the vacuum lines that are loose and leaks suctions or sometimes they are crack open by long ages..By the way check and recheck all those other fuses and relay for make sure they are good...Believe me that not hard to figure out those problems..You did everything rights so far..That one 100 amps fuse at the + battery post cable was connect to alternator for recharging your battery and give power to other items when car was running..Below that post, the middle cable was connect to the starter motor and the bottom cable was connect to that 8" black fuses and relays box under the hood...
Posted on Sep 22, 2011
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