Question about Ford Explorer
Not Necessarily, first I would adjust the idle so that the revs are around 800, then check the tension on the belt connected to the alternator as if it is too slack then the alternator will not charge the battery hence the fading lights.
Posted on Nov 11, 2014
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1985 Toyota van LE
check battery connections are secure if its been changed recent chances are its the live lead has not been fully seated on the cone prior to tightening
Posted on Oct 30, 2008
This whole problem is most likey due to a sludged up intake and idle speed control valve, do the following procedure and it should take care of the problems, also run a couple of cans of LUCUS brand fuel injector cleaner through, I know u will see it is more expensive than other brands, but the thing is it works!
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls at stops and low erratic idle speed and rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
Did you clean the cables when you changed the battery?
I'd trace the wires connecting your alternator and battery and make sure they are "healthy" and securely fastened. Then, I'd check the wires connecting your battery and starter. Again, make sure the wires are securely fastened and appear clean.
The starter and solenoid are one unit for this vehicle.
Hope this helps and good luck!
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
If the battery and alternator tested fine. I would have the charging system rechecked when engine is hot and at high rpm's. This way the checks are being done as if you were driving and driving for a long time. Alternators can work fine when cold but weaken when hot or stop working. This problem is not rare but only is seen occassionly. Unless it was checked at an electrical shop the average shop doesn't run these tests for they don't see the problem often enough to automaticly run them at all times. Good luck and let me know how you make out.
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 27, 2016 | 2003 Ford Ranger Regular Cab
Nov 11, 2014 | Ford Explorer Cars & Trucks
Aug 15, 2014 | 1995 Ford Explorer
Jan 23, 2014 | 2001 Ford Explorer Sport
Jun 18, 2017 | 2004 Ford Explorer
Mar 23, 2010 | 1996 Ford Explorer
Sep 22, 2009 | 2005 Dodge Caravan
Jul 05, 2009 | 1994 Ford Taurus
64 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: