Question about Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Guillotine Ideal 5221, how do I bleed the hydraulics to remove a air pocket on the clamp

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Top Expert:

    An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 44,612 Answers

Loosen off the top hose a fraction ( just enough to let oil drip out) and cycle the clamp. Oil will be under extreme pressure so keep your hands well away from the fitting and wear eye protection When there are no more air bubbles and the clamp is working as designed tighten up the fitting.

Posted on Nov 11, 2014

Ad

3 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
  • 1024 Answers

SOURCE: how to air bleeding in break system by step by

you need two persons
open the bleeder screw on the wheel that is furthest from the master cylinder and do the nearest last.
have a person pump on the brake pedal and hold firm while you open the screw, then close it before tell the person pump again
repeat until you see no more air come out
make sure you fill up the master cylinder, do not let it run out of fluid

Posted on Feb 26, 2010

ftw1952
  • 10319 Answers

SOURCE: how do you bleed air pockets out of cooling system in 99 grand am

If a valve is expose on the upper heater hose piping crack that open only when the engine is warmed up for at least 15 minutes. If no valve is seen you will need to loosen one of the heater hose clamps ever so slowly to let the air out. The process to loosen the clamp is not recommended unless you do this first..... When the engine is COLD loosen a hose clamp and remove the hose and put it back on. Thighten the hose clamp snug only. The start the engine to warm up. In about three minutes see if you can twist the hose to move on the fitting. If you can snug the clamo a lttle more and check again. You do not want the hose to come off if too loose. Now that the engine is warmed up for 10 to 15 minutes shut OFF the engine and barely loosen the same clamp 1/4 turn at a time until coolant trickles out. Listen carefully for air escaping too. Air pressure does built up only when the engine gets hot and the air pocket does not move when the engine was cold with the hose removed beforehand. If no air was released upon this proceedure you have a blockage in your system and flushing maybe the only other option using pressure instead forcing the coolant out. Get a can of coolant flush before the power flush proceedure. A radiator pressure tester can be used to power flush with an air fitting adapter installed in place of the guage

Posted on Mar 28, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

I have 1996 Opel Astra , 1.4 L. The temperature gauge stays close to RED mark. I think the engine is getting overheated.I think about removal of air pockets out of cooling system.


find the highest hose and loosen of the clamp to release the air from the system
many have a bleed screw at that point as well
have a compression test done and have a coolant pressure test done to check for leaks

Aug 11, 2017 | Opel Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Can't get brake fluid to flow out antilock. Can't bleed brakes because no fluid coming out of the antilock system. Fliud going to antilock none coming out. Any fix on this.


did you read the FSM book first, or alldata.com pages on how to bleed your ABS system?, some cars require a scanner that can cycle the modulator to bleed out air.
97 626, ill look.
did you remove any parts , up stream of the modulator?
(called the hydraulic unit by mazda)
is the ABS lamp glowing?

here is page on HU swap. (would be worst case)
seems its not special bleeding type. "says "in the usual manor"

  1. If necessary, remove the fuel filter and igniter mounting nuts and move them out of the way.
  2. Remove the charcoal canister from the vehicle and if the vehicle is equipped with cruise control, remove the cruise control actuator.
  3. Disconnect the brake lines from the hydraulic unit. Correct reassembly is critical. Label or identify the lines before removal. Plug each line immediately after removal.
  4. Disconnect the electrical harness connectors to the hydraulic unit.
  5. Remove the 2 nuts holding the hydraulic unit. Remove the unit upwards.
0.) disconnect battery first.
The hydraulic unit is heavy; use care when removing it. The unit must remain in the upright position at all times and be protected from impact and shock.
  1. Set the unit upright supported by blocks on the workbench. The hydraulic unit must not be tilted or turned upside down. No component of the hydraulic unit should be loosened or disassembled.
  2. The bracket assemblies may be removed if desired.
To install:
  1. Install the brackets if removed.
  2. Install the hydraulic unit into the vehicle, keeping it upright at all times.
  3. Install the retaining nuts and tighten.
  4. Connect the electrical connectors.
  5. Connect each brake line to the proper port and double check the placement. Tighten each line to 113-190 inch lbs. (12.9-21.5 Nm).
  6. Fill the reservoir to the MAX line with brake fluid.
  7. Bleed the master cylinder, then bleed the brake lines.
  8. If removed, install the cruise control actuator and the charcoal canister.

Apr 15, 2015 | 1997 Mazda 626

1 Answer

Looking for a hydraulic guillotine type metal break


You are in the wrong product category.

Apr 22, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Rear caliper on 2005 Ford F150 not releasing, replaced both rear calipers, now pedal goes to the floor - no brakes at all. What can/should i do?


Sounds like it still has some air in the system or a bad master cylinder. First try bleeding all air, there is definitely some air left in the lines and this is most probably causing the problem. Bled the lines at the bleeder screws on the calipers. ---------- There is air left in the brake line.Any time the brake system is opened to replace brake lines, caliper, pads etc etc.Mostly the air enters the system, and that air has to be completely bleed.Otherwise the same symptoms , what you are getting will be noticed.-------- Brakes can be bled manually, with a power bleeder, injector tool or vacuum bleeder.IIt does not make any difference which method you use as long as all the lines and components are flushed with enough fluid to remove any trapped air bubbles or air pockets.----
The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car or truck, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.--------- When the complete air is bleed from the line, the brake should be firm when car is on.In your case brake brake pedal is loose and goes almost to the floor when car is ON.This is due to Air in the line.Get the complete air bleed from brake line.------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech

Sep 07, 2011 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Front brakes wont fully release


There's air in the hydraulic system - bleed the brakelines to get rid of any air in the system. When braking air get compressed to a tiny pocket, when releasing it expansed and cause the brakes to still hang on to the disk for a while.

Jun 28, 2011 | 1992 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

How to bleed the brakes


Bleeding the ABS System

Print


NOTE
This procedure requires the use of a scan tool.


NOTE
Performing the SYSTEM BLEED FUNCTION on the diagnostic tool drives trapped air from the hydraulic control unit (HCU). Subsequent bleeding removes the air from the brake hydraulic system to the bleeder screws.


NOTE
The engine must be running to provide adequate voltage to the HCU module during the anti-lock control portion of the system bleed.

1. Connect the diagnostic tool.

2. Start the engine and depress the brake pedal to half of the full travel position.

3. Access FUNCTION TEST mode and press the trigger to run the SYSTEM BLEED FUNCTION.

4. Manually bleed the brake hydraulic system.

5. Repeat the procedure performing a total of two diagnostic tool cycles and two manual bleed cycles. The bleed procedure is complete.


Hope helps.

Nov 01, 2010 | Ford Laser Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do i bleed the brakes on a 1999 Pontiac Grand Am?


Bleeding the Brake System
When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or
replacement, air may get into the lines and cause spongy pedal action (because
air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To correct this condition, it is
necessary to bleed the hydraulic system so to be sure all air is purged.

When bleeding the brake system, bleed one brake cylinder at a time, beginning
at the cylinder with the longest hydraulic line (farthest from the master
cylinder) first. ALWAYS Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake
fluid during the bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid that has been drained
from the hydraulic system, no matter how clean it is.

The primary and secondary hydraulic brake systems are separate and are bled
independently. During the bleeding operation, do not allow the reservoir to run
dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake fluid.


  1. Clean all dirt from around the master cylinder fill cap, remove the cap and
    fill the master cylinder with brake fluid until the level is within 1/4 I n.
    (6mm) of the top edge of the reservoir.
  2. Clean the bleeder screws at all 4 wheels. The bleeder screws are located on
    the top of the brake calipers.
  3. Attach a length of rubber hose over the bleeder screw and place the other
    end of the hose in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
  4. Starting at the right rear proceed in this order left front, left rear and
    right front.
  5. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 - 3/4 turn. Have an assistant slowly depress the
    brake pedal.
  6. Close the bleeder screw and tell your assistant to allow the brake pedal to
    return slowly. Continue this process to purge all air from the system.
  7. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the
    bleeder screw and remove the hose.
  8. Check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid accordingly. Do this
    after bleeding each wheel.
  9. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.


prev.gif next.gif

Sep 21, 2010 | 1999 Pontiac Grand Am GT

1 Answer

How do you bleed air pockets out of cooling system in 99 grand am


If a valve is expose on the upper heater hose piping crack that open only when the engine is warmed up for at least 15 minutes. If no valve is seen you will need to loosen one of the heater hose clamps ever so slowly to let the air out. The process to loosen the clamp is not recommended unless you do this first..... When the engine is COLD loosen a hose clamp and remove the hose and put it back on. Thighten the hose clamp snug only. The start the engine to warm up. In about three minutes see if you can twist the hose to move on the fitting. If you can snug the clamo a lttle more and check again. You do not want the hose to come off if too loose. Now that the engine is warmed up for 10 to 15 minutes shut OFF the engine and barely loosen the same clamp 1/4 turn at a time until coolant trickles out. Listen carefully for air escaping too. Air pressure does built up only when the engine gets hot and the air pocket does not move when the engine was cold with the hose removed beforehand. If no air was released upon this proceedure you have a blockage in your system and flushing maybe the only other option using pressure instead forcing the coolant out. Get a can of coolant flush before the power flush proceedure. A radiator pressure tester can be used to power flush with an air fitting adapter installed in place of the guage

Mar 28, 2010 | 2006 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

1999 ford focus 1.8 TDi


you did not seat the clutch properly this you will have to remove the housing use the clutch tool for setting the plate will have to be found and used

the break problems somewhere in your line you have a leak in which moisture makes its way into your hydraulics and makes air pockets this is the cold part the cold takes the moisture freezes it this causes a blockage
it wont show any leakage cause the hole is too minute to see but its there
but when you heat it up the air pocket heats up and travels threw your hoses giving you air in your system you need to find how the air is makeing its way in simply by haveing system preasure tested it

May 22, 2008 | 2000 Ford Focus

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

94 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Cars & Trucks Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76691 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22219 Answers

Randy Ohler

Level 3 Expert

14585 Answers

Are you a Car and Truck Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...